Need help with electrics
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Need help with electrics
I have done some searching but i am unable to find answear to this -
What type of current is the little bulb in the speedometer ( one that serves as a backround light in the speedometer ) on the euro / australian version of the xr running on AC or DC ???? ,
I am looking at the electrical drawing in the service manual i believe its fed from the AC side but i am bit confused as there are few things on that drawing that are wrong for example all the AC earths and DC negatives are connected together ( green wire ) , i have always believed that it is best to keep them separated , using floating earth for the DC side .
Also it seems that my Ignition coil its dead , i have measured the coil between the two connectors ( primary side ) and the resistance was very low ( less than 1 OHM ) it should be about 4 ohms +/-1 ohm , on most bikes so i think there is a short , also the green wire comming out from the ignition coil back to the CDI semms to be slightly burned ( blackish in colour ) as are few other wires in the original loom , i dont like the cheap thin wires that honda had used on this bike as they seem to struggle even with the Low output stock stator and measly 35 Watts bulb .
What type of current is the little bulb in the speedometer ( one that serves as a backround light in the speedometer ) on the euro / australian version of the xr running on AC or DC ???? ,
I am looking at the electrical drawing in the service manual i believe its fed from the AC side but i am bit confused as there are few things on that drawing that are wrong for example all the AC earths and DC negatives are connected together ( green wire ) , i have always believed that it is best to keep them separated , using floating earth for the DC side .
Also it seems that my Ignition coil its dead , i have measured the coil between the two connectors ( primary side ) and the resistance was very low ( less than 1 OHM ) it should be about 4 ohms +/-1 ohm , on most bikes so i think there is a short , also the green wire comming out from the ignition coil back to the CDI semms to be slightly burned ( blackish in colour ) as are few other wires in the original loom , i dont like the cheap thin wires that honda had used on this bike as they seem to struggle even with the Low output stock stator and measly 35 Watts bulb .
Last edited by Mad Frosty on Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:55 am; edited 1 time in total
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Re: Need help with electrics
me thinks its dc , same as the blinker , i rewound my stator to run all dc and did away with the ac pwr on the bike , much better
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Re: Need help with electrics
Thank you Sean , they can probably run on both AC and DC , i will give it a try ,
does anyone know what the resistance on the primary coil of the ignition coil should be ? I have spend half a day trying to find out unsuccesfully , or alternatively can someone measure the resistance on his coil ( the one above the spark plug ) , i would be ethernaly gratefull
does anyone know what the resistance on the primary coil of the ignition coil should be ? I have spend half a day trying to find out unsuccesfully , or alternatively can someone measure the resistance on his coil ( the one above the spark plug ) , i would be ethernaly gratefull
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Re: Need help with electrics
Easy -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRQ45lT2d3c
The thing is that not all bikes have the same resistance values , i have seen some as low as 1,2 ohm and as high as 5 ohm , but i am unable to find out what exactly the XR's ignition coil should be at , so that is why i want someone with a good coil to measure the resistance and post it here , so it will help not just me but hopefully others in the future .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRQ45lT2d3c
The thing is that not all bikes have the same resistance values , i have seen some as low as 1,2 ohm and as high as 5 ohm , but i am unable to find out what exactly the XR's ignition coil should be at , so that is why i want someone with a good coil to measure the resistance and post it here , so it will help not just me but hopefully others in the future .
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Re: Need help with electrics
mate i looked at it and cant work out how to test it , im useless i know , my multimeter is a cheap 1 and i can only work out how to use it on ac or dc to read vlts from the stator or the battery
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Re: Need help with electrics
take a pic of where you want me to put the red and black prongs on the coil
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Re: Need help with electrics
Little globes are 5W normally, and they don't care if AC or DC.... and I hunch yours is AC.
Sean, the Oz-bikes are all DC as per std delivery???? I ask because there's only space for 1 'reg', so it's either all DC or AC as far as I know...
Sean, the Oz-bikes are all DC as per std delivery???? I ask because there's only space for 1 'reg', so it's either all DC or AC as far as I know...
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Re: Need help with electrics
I have ordered new ignition coil , i will measure it when it arrives and post it here for future reference . I was lucky enough to have inmate Kirky to live close enough and be so kind to help me out , we have compared the coils , his shows higher value than mine about 0,9-1,2 ohm ( crappy multimeter ) , my ignition coil its at 0,1-0,2 ohm so it has lower resistance ,
cant wait to see what values will i see on a brand new IC .
cant wait to see what values will i see on a brand new IC .
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Re: Need help with electrics
BuRP wrote:Little globes are 5W normally, and they don't care if AC or DC.... and I hunch yours is AC.
Sean, the Oz-bikes are all DC as per std delivery???? I ask because there's only space for 1 'reg', so it's either all DC or AC as far as I know...
my bike is DC only ,ac from stator to the reg rec then pwr to battery everything runs from there , oz bikes are ac headlight and tail light every thing else is dc
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Re: Need help with electrics
Whych type of current its more suitable for the headlight with H4 type bulb ? I know you can use both but why change to DC ?
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Re: Need help with electrics
I believe AC is more efficient for lighting but having a system with mixed AC/DC can be problematic if the grounding isn't done correctly.
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Re: Need help with electrics
All sorted and working , the brand new ignition coil its basicaly the same as the original one
0,3-0,4 ohm so very low resistance , not easy to measure with toy multimeter
The old one its still perfectly fine but i have changed it anyway , it has served the bike for many years so new one can do no harm and the old part goes in my spare parts bin just in case .
0,3-0,4 ohm so very low resistance , not easy to measure with toy multimeter
The old one its still perfectly fine but i have changed it anyway , it has served the bike for many years so new one can do no harm and the old part goes in my spare parts bin just in case .
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Re: Need help with electrics
Pretty sure your speedo bulb is AC. I am just changing mine over to all dc and got an autoelectrician to help me figure out the wiring diagram because as you say the earths are all mixed and everything I read online says that you shouldn't mix AC and DC earth's. Obviously it can work though!
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Re: Need help with electrics
Yes the speedo bulb its running on AC on the stock bike , but you can run it on DC if you want ( tested by me and it worked both ways ) , i left mine on AC .
Its interesting how the mixed AC and DC earths work fine in the stock wireing , but it does not work in aftermarket looms
Its interesting how the mixed AC and DC earths work fine in the stock wireing , but it does not work in aftermarket looms
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Re: Need help with electrics
Well its like mixing voodoo and black magic, sure they both sound close to the same but in practical application mixing them is what lets the gremlins get out.
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Re: Need help with electrics
I've been very reluctant to chime into any electrical shenanigans people are getting into.
I spent a ton of time rewiring my whole bike. Here’s the cliff notes.
Gutted the OEM harness. The OEM harness powers the bike. That’s it. No extra wires no confusion; simple.
Trash canned everything Baja. New wiring harness built from scratch (for power only). Has everything in it to run dual 100W DC systems from a Ricky Stator.
Tusk switch block, Tusk replacement wiring harness (awesome) and Tusk LED everything.
Two trail tech reg/recs mounted between the forks using old baja kit fork mounts. (only good thing about baja in my opinion)
The First DC leg powers my GPS, Computer, LED blinkers, Tail lights Ect. And uses a trailtech battery pack and is switched at the Reg/Rec so you cant drain it.
The Second DC leg powers only lights via a Solid State Hella Relay And uses a Ricky Stator capacitor so it can handle the current, smoothes out the voltage and should last a really long time.
It works great and I’m very happy with my electrical now. Check out Vintage Connectors, they're in California and are AWESOME! I used all OEM style crimp on bullet connectors with polyurethane sleeves and they’re OEM style PVC sheathing. Took me over a month to get it all dialed in. Replicating what I did will take a lot of time. And I still haven’t stopped drinking to try forgetting about the horror I went through doing it.
Just remember. Solid State Relay’s bleed voltage and DO NOT wire up like standard relays. You MUST have a resistance on them in order to measure voltage correctly. Hard lesson learned there.
Other than that. Do what you can to not mix AC and DC. Ask Eddy about that and how well his bike runs now that we eliminated his AC Reg. And above all simplify your OEM wiring harness. You’re whole bike only needs 6 wires to run. The only reason you need two more is for a kill switch.
I spent a ton of time rewiring my whole bike. Here’s the cliff notes.
Gutted the OEM harness. The OEM harness powers the bike. That’s it. No extra wires no confusion; simple.
Trash canned everything Baja. New wiring harness built from scratch (for power only). Has everything in it to run dual 100W DC systems from a Ricky Stator.
Tusk switch block, Tusk replacement wiring harness (awesome) and Tusk LED everything.
Two trail tech reg/recs mounted between the forks using old baja kit fork mounts. (only good thing about baja in my opinion)
The First DC leg powers my GPS, Computer, LED blinkers, Tail lights Ect. And uses a trailtech battery pack and is switched at the Reg/Rec so you cant drain it.
The Second DC leg powers only lights via a Solid State Hella Relay And uses a Ricky Stator capacitor so it can handle the current, smoothes out the voltage and should last a really long time.
It works great and I’m very happy with my electrical now. Check out Vintage Connectors, they're in California and are AWESOME! I used all OEM style crimp on bullet connectors with polyurethane sleeves and they’re OEM style PVC sheathing. Took me over a month to get it all dialed in. Replicating what I did will take a lot of time. And I still haven’t stopped drinking to try forgetting about the horror I went through doing it.
Just remember. Solid State Relay’s bleed voltage and DO NOT wire up like standard relays. You MUST have a resistance on them in order to measure voltage correctly. Hard lesson learned there.
Other than that. Do what you can to not mix AC and DC. Ask Eddy about that and how well his bike runs now that we eliminated his AC Reg. And above all simplify your OEM wiring harness. You’re whole bike only needs 6 wires to run. The only reason you need two more is for a kill switch.
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