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Rotella oil good or not.

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Rotella oil good or not. Empty Rotella oil good or not.

Post  Guest Fri Sep 26, 2014 6:06 pm

I have herd that Rotella oil is the hot set up in bike oil. I just picked up a 2006 xr650r. Going to change the oil and was reading on some forms that lots of people swears by using Rotella oil. Any words of advice for me. This is my first honda and I want to treat her right.
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Post  Guest Fri Sep 26, 2014 8:19 pm

Here is an interesting site explaining the issue of running automotive oils in motorcycles.

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/43237/maintenance-tips/the-down-low-on-motorcycle-oil/

I have been running Castrol power RS 4T because the engine holds so little oil, roughly 1.75qts and can get quite hot in slow conditions. I would like a good quality oil and its cheap insurance in my opinion.

Post up pictures of how big of a mess the first oil change was Smile


Last edited by ooeddym on Fri Sep 26, 2014 8:22 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Guest Fri Sep 26, 2014 8:22 pm

Use propper oil designed for use in motorcycles , simple .
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Post  Guest Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:36 pm

@ooeeddym lol. Will do. Watched a few you tube videos on how to not make a mess on oil change. I will get some castrol RS 4T and get the gopro set up for a oil change. Thanks for thd advice.
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Post  Guest Sat Sep 27, 2014 3:43 am

http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

If you can be bothered have a read of the above link. What ever oil you decide to use just make sure it is certified JASO MA or MA1 or MA2 . That means it is ok to use in 4 stroke bikes with wet clutch. Also how much attention did the previous owner/s of the bike put into servicing and maintenance. listen up
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Post  Guest Sat Sep 27, 2014 4:03 am

I agree with the articles assessment of viscosity retention weather it be a motorcycle motor or a vehicle motor the oil acts the same. My research always pointed to the effects of solid lubrication items in the oil like Moly which could sour the friction material in the wet clutch causing it to prematurely slip. That being said i have found some articles that state that with the new emission standards being put on engines and oil that the solid lubricant additives have been replaced with non solid synthetic version that wont cause clutch problems. Do i want to find out with my bike, not really.

I do believe in using synthetic in the xr because i dont want to change oil as often as the manual recommends and with synthetics having a slower oxidation rate at temp they can run longer before they break down.

Now if you're lucky enough to have a dry clutch like a Ducati then you can run any oil you want without fear of clutch issues.
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Post  Guest Sat Sep 27, 2014 4:41 am

Here in OZ most bike oils are synthetic/semi synthetic so the choice is already made . Old school mineral bike oils seem to be a dying breed.I think most of us would agree just stay with reputable oil brands and regular oil/filter changes and there should not be any problems.Just be sure to look for the wet clutch certification JASO MA. As that link stated new car engines are close tolerance,high revving,small capacity.Much the same as bike engines, oils do a tough job whether it is 4 or 2 wheel vehicles.
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Post  Guest Sat Sep 27, 2014 4:45 am

I agree.
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Post  Mauser Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:46 am

Oil's cheap...? I use Silkolene Semi Synthetic every 600 miles or so and OEM filters are about £5 over here.....no brainer BRP smile normally pay £90 for 20 litres Bananatool
I'm sure I read that engines cost more ?
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Post  Guest Sat Sep 27, 2014 9:07 am

Mauser wrote:Oil's cheap...? I use Silkolene Semi Synthetic every 600 miles or so and OEM filters are about £5 over here.....no brainer BRP smile normally pay £90 for 20 litres Bananatool
I'm sure I read that engines cost more ?
Yeah agreed, oil is cheap compared to engine rebuilds. Bike oils here are normally sold in 4/5 litre packs, sometimes 2.5 litre which makes it expensive way to pay for it, just another sales scam as far as i am concerned.
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Post  Guest Sun Sep 28, 2014 1:25 am

I have run rotella 15w40 for 2 seasons without any problems and the big pig likes it! Next change I might try the rotella t6 full synthetic and see how that goes! I would just run an oil you feel comfortable with and make sure it has the Jaso ma stamp!   BRP smile
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Post  Guest Wed Oct 15, 2014 4:04 am

Thanks for all the inputs and information.
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Post  Guest Thu Oct 16, 2014 3:32 pm

Shell Rotella (single grade diesel oil), Rimula X (diesel multigrade) and Helix Ultra (full synth fully suitable for even turbodiesels) are all very well suited for use in bikes, also with a wet clutch so obviously also the XRR.
Mix them as you like also (say 50/50), I've done this for years - in both cars and bikes, and yes, for both diesel and petrol engines. Fwiw, any engine oil may be mixed with other engine oil(s), not so with specialized oils (not for engines).
A 'diesel' oil is a bit higher in detergent dopes or better in its inherent cleaning capacity, depending on the base oil used.
I use 50/50 Ultra & Rimula X in my CBR600RR which runs 15000rpm, the odo on 12000km purely on tracks.... this for those who will say "car" oils are not suitable for high revving bike engines (= hogwash Smile.
I will use any oil from Shell, Esso, Agip, BP, Elf and the likes, for reason these companies employ a village of scientists to ensure that their products will perform as per said on the tin it comes in.
I will not use a single drop of Castrol for even a padlock, no thank you, and I'm allowed in this personal preference Bump
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Post  Guest Mon Oct 20, 2014 5:49 pm

Sanderson, just read this bike is new to you.
When draining the oil in the downtube/frame remove the mesh filter in there, hope you have a workshop manual (if not get it, download it). Of course also drain the oil in the engine itself, best is to lean it over for some time to get all out.
But also, take off the RH enginecover (clutch side) and check/clean the mesh filter that lives there. First off the manual says you have to do this once in a while, and secondly this will give you some impression of what you own now, how it lived and what is in there, if anything of course.
Last but not least, I hope you know how to make sure you have the correct oillevel in the bike, and I'm not kidding here: fill the frame until full (but less than ~1.6 liters), start the bike, let it idle for a short while, then switch it off and check the dipstick. It will be too low so you fill up with a bit more oil, and repeat. Common is novices overfill this bike, zero offense please.
Lastly, you'd be best off to mount an oil sight tube (if it hasn't one already), which allows you to see the (correct or not) oillevel whilst riding.
Enjoy and look after this bike, it's the last big Honda single, and also best according to those present here BRP smile
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Post  Guest Mon Oct 20, 2014 7:47 pm

Be ready with the rags when you pull the clutch cover if its on a stand, there will be oil everywhere. I tipped my bike to the kick stand side until nothing else would come out, thinking I was safe I put it back on the stand pulled the right hand side case off and there was at least a 1/4 quart still in the bottom end in the oil pickup well where the screen Burp is talking about. I had oil everywhere, I finally threw a roll of paper towels at it in disgust and walked away. Another option is lay the bike down on the left hand side and pull the right hand case cover off, that should keep what oil is left in the motor and not all over the garage floor.
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