Mixing oil

Hey Gurus:

A quick question for you.

Today, I discovered my pig was low on oil while up in the Catalina Mountains. The only stuff available was good ol' no name 10w-40 dinosaur oil. The stuff in my bike is Rotella-T, synthetic.

In a pinch, is it cool to mix the two? I thought better of it and took it easy until I found a quart of Mobil 1, synthetic for diesels, which appeared similar to my Rotella.

Note to self: Don't go on long rides without checking the oil first.

Dave

I'm sure that there are better answers than this but.
Any oil is better than no oil.
The right oil is better than any oil.
My understanding is that all commercial available engine oils can be mixed ie synthetic with mineral.
Some other advice that I have picked up is to use the best oil that you are willing to change frequently, that is don;t use an expensive oil then skimp on the oil changes.
use an oil that is freely available so that it is easy to top up on route.
Hope this helps

Hew:

Thanks for the rely. That was either a really stupid question, or I stumped the panel (the former, I'm sure ).

I did not have too far to go, so I just went for the best match. She's still running fine.

10-4 on running something available and not tremendously expensive. That's why I continue running the Rotilla T. It's ~$10 for 5 quarts and all the auto stores around here sell it (even late at night).

But, if in a pinch, I remember "My understanding is that all commercial available engine oils can be mixed ie synthetic with mineral."

Dave

Mixing oil is NOT a problem. Synthetic with Dino, 10W-40 with 15W-50, whatever. By mixing weights you can change the viscosity a little. Purists may have a problem with mixing oil but most real worlders do it all the time. Like someone mentioned. It's good just to have oil in the sump.

Not too many mechanics have ever pulled a motor apart and said, "this motor seized because the guy was running 10W-40 and not 20W-50" but many have pulled them apart and said it's jacked because of no oil or lack of......fo show!

Hew wrote:...use the best oil that you are willing to change frequently...

Ditto!

The XRR oil should be changed often. That's as far as I'm going to go with another oil thread.

Ok. Now the big question.

What's the best oil to use?

JUST KIDDING!

Im assuming that everyone here realizes that you must run motorcycle specific oils to get proper clutch function. These motorcycle oils do not qualify for the API certification since they do not contain friction modifiers. No/less friction modifiers = good. Here is the info from Mobil 1.

"Additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers. Motorcycle oils do not require friction modifiers for fuel economy and for better clutch friction less/no friction modifier is optimum. Motorcycle oils allow the use of higher levels of antiwear additives such as ZDDP (phosphorous)."

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oil_FAQs.aspx

I hope this helps, I bet most of you knew this but just in case!

That's important stuff. Thanks for posting it.

Dave

Dave P, I just read a big long post on Shell Rotella-T synthetic and according to Shell's MSDS

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
Review Date: 01/03/2006


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SECTION 1 PRODUCT AND COMPANY IDENTIFICATION

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PRODUCT: ROTELLA T Synthetic SAE 5W-40

MSDS NUMBER: 400792E - 1
PRODUCT CODE(S): 5062054, 5068680, 54300, 5430000001

MANUFACTURER ADDRESS:
SOPUS Products, P.O. Box 4427, Houston, TX. 77210-4427

TELEPHONE NUMBERS
Spill Information: (877) 242-7400
Health Information: (877) 504-9351
MSDS Assistance Number: (877) 276-7285


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SECTION 2 PRODUCT/INGREDIENTS

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CAS# CONCENTRATION INGREDIENTS
Synthetic Motor Oil
Mixture 90 - 98.99 %volume Highly refined petroleum oils
Mixture 1 - 4.99 %volume Proprietary additives
Proprietary 1 - 4.99 %volume Zinc Dialkyldithiophosphate

So its just mineral oil with additives so I doubt you did any damage or will do any.

I need to change the oil in my pig today, going to Lake Tahoe for the weekend and will be ridding their and good old Rotella T is going in her.

Thanks for the info, Clipity.

Yeah, I'm out of the woods (I think). I've put ~1000 miles on her since screwing up. She runs the same as usual.

Of course, if something can be messed up, I can do it. I totally destroyed the aluminum "washer" on the oil screen frame bolt a couple hours ago. I bet the dealers have a bunch of those in stock (NOT!).

Ride a few wheelies for me in Tahoe!

Dave P wrote: I totally destroyed the aluminum "washer" on the oil screen frame bolt a couple hours ago. I bet the dealers have a bunch of those in stock (NOT!).

Ride a few wheelies for me in Tahoe!

Don't you just love it when something like that happens. I pulled a bone head move the other day, I cut a rubber plug off on the brake caliper (don't ask me why) man I sure am glad I have other bikes I can steal parts off of. The stealership wants almost $5.00 for it.
Ill try the wheelie for ya, but its not my forte.