Subframe - Taping out the holes

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Subframe - Taping out the holes

Post  modette on Fri Oct 09, 2009 6:15 pm

Lets just say, the top two can be done to the 8mm 1.25 thread pitch as it has been stated before. It was easy to do. Sears sells a 8mm 1.25 pitch tap with the drill bit for like $8...so no need to buy a whole tap & die set.

However the other holes have brass gourmets that when you try and tap they spin. I could not hold them even with Vice-Grips, okay I did on one and it broke the Gourmet off inside with the tap stuck into that part. I had to cut the tap off with a dremel and push it to the side inside the frame. Only method I could think of to fix my error was to drill a hole through the frame and use some T collar fittings that I pushed in from the back side and a long 8mm bolt that I put a lock-nut on the end so it does not vibrate off. I did the same for the other 2 holes. I guess we will see if this works and there is no frame problems. Worst case I will need to take the subframe off and have the bro give it to his guy to weld some solid aluminum in there that I can tap out.

So be warned only the upper two bolt holes can be tapped out to a larger size as they have aluminum inserts in them. This is easy to do, took me 10 minutes to do both holes. For bolts I used Hex bolts that are class 12.9 bought from my local ACE Hardware. They should not break at all.

Old and NEW bolts:


Tapping the Hole:


Bolt in hole:
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Re: Subframe - Taping out the holes

Post  river on Sun Nov 15, 2009 2:48 am

What is the objective of changing bolts? Stripped bolt/threads?
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Everything about the aluminum sub-frame is minimal

Post  Bump on Sun Nov 15, 2009 4:43 pm

So the bolts are easily sheered or bend.
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Re: Subframe - Taping out the holes

Post  modette on Sun Nov 22, 2009 9:48 pm

Bump wrote:So the bolts are easily sheered or bend.

They tended to sheer for me, however they seem fine with the bigger ones in now that are rated at 12.9 class.
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