Needle Clip Position Stock Carb
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Needle Clip Position Stock Carb
Hi guys,
Silly question but where should my needle clip be on a stock bike HRC tip and uncorked jets ?, sea level...tried searching but failed lol, not sure where I stuck the clip when I uncorked the bike; she runs great but would like to know what are the symptoms are when you run the bike with the clip further up or further down ?.
As always help appreciated
Silly question but where should my needle clip be on a stock bike HRC tip and uncorked jets ?, sea level...tried searching but failed lol, not sure where I stuck the clip when I uncorked the bike; she runs great but would like to know what are the symptoms are when you run the bike with the clip further up or further down ?.
As always help appreciated
Mauser- XRR Monger
- Joined : 2010-09-13
Posts : 1970
Location : UK
XR650R Year : 2002
Re: Needle Clip Position Stock Carb
Shame on you all not helping me out
Mauser- XRR Monger
- Joined : 2010-09-13
Posts : 1970
Location : UK
XR650R Year : 2002
Re: Needle Clip Position Stock Carb
Cheers for the reply....mine runs OK just wondering where the clip should be and what exactly it does lol.rikco wrote:i never touched the needle because my pig runs great
Mauser- XRR Monger
- Joined : 2010-09-13
Posts : 1970
Location : UK
XR650R Year : 2002
Re: Needle Clip Position Stock Carb
Most here that are very close to sea level are running in the 3rd position from the top.Mauser wrote:...tried searching but failed
Link - XR650R Sticky Thread < Easy to find!
As for it's purpose...Moving the clip closer to the top of the needle (or lowering the needle) will go lean. Obviously moving the needle away from the top of the needle (or raising the needle) will go rich.
~Focker
Re: Needle Clip Position Stock Carb
Cheers for that.....so third position for the following sounds OK ?.Focker wrote:Most here that are very close to sea level are running in the 3rd position from the top.Mauser wrote:...tried searching but failed
Link - XR650R Sticky Thread < Easy to find!
As for it's purpose...Moving the clip closer to the top of the needle (or lowering the needle) will go lean. Obviously moving the needle away from the top of the needle (or raising the needle) will go rich.
~Focker
HRC tip with stock headers and can.
Stock airbox no holes; just removed the 2 restrictors, standard air filter not K&N.
68s & 175 I think are the jets.
Stock plug
And as mentioned sea level.
Mauser- XRR Monger
- Joined : 2010-09-13
Posts : 1970
Location : UK
XR650R Year : 2002
Re: Needle Clip Position Stock Carb
No idea actually, I sortof forgot about the stock carb due to the fact that someone (you ) put me onto the TM40.
However, any needle is set to "middle" for starters, and most certainly a factory will do this. Then, after having modded some things affecting breathing one may either drop or raise it a little, but mind, when it is a little out only.
Also, the needle effects from say .2 to .8 throttle only. Above that it's the main jet only, below that it's your idling system (jet & airjet & screw), so you need to know where you need to change it before setting it different.
Doing this 'by feel of pants' is possible (with loadsa systematic patience, work, plugreadings and knowledge etc) but most will set their bike to 'too rich' because this is easiest and feels best. A quick visit to a dyno will get you 'right' in half an hour though, and it does take any doubt away. But also, it will show you also if your main & idling systems are fine, and all this should not be sneezed at.
If you'll do this I'd pick a day/time when you have your "average" temperature, as even this plays a role.
I'd leave it alone Mauser, as the needle position should be in the middle, and the variations are quite small too. Better still, if according to a dyno it has to be set close to or on a limit (with the rest fine!) then the needle system (needle & jet) is probably wrong, but now we're getting to the fine nitty gritty.
First get the idling perfect, and I mean perfect. Then the mids, which is indeed the needle system (however to a lesser extent also the main jet), and then lastly get the main (wide open!) correct. As said a dyno will get you all of this in minimum time, with the assurance that it's set correctly too - which you actually never really have if you tune by pants unless you dam well are cocksure that you know what you do, zero offense intended Mauser. This is also why I still have not done my main yet, although it goes well for those short times I open it up.
But I bought 3 needles, and found another one 'best' than the one widely recommended, especially low down I need perfect fueling for tricky manoeuvrings, and with lotsa openings it is less critical anyway. The dyno will tell me if I will keep this needle though - and you guessed it, it's set smack bang in the middle.
Hope this helps?
However, any needle is set to "middle" for starters, and most certainly a factory will do this. Then, after having modded some things affecting breathing one may either drop or raise it a little, but mind, when it is a little out only.
Also, the needle effects from say .2 to .8 throttle only. Above that it's the main jet only, below that it's your idling system (jet & airjet & screw), so you need to know where you need to change it before setting it different.
Doing this 'by feel of pants' is possible (with loadsa systematic patience, work, plugreadings and knowledge etc) but most will set their bike to 'too rich' because this is easiest and feels best. A quick visit to a dyno will get you 'right' in half an hour though, and it does take any doubt away. But also, it will show you also if your main & idling systems are fine, and all this should not be sneezed at.
If you'll do this I'd pick a day/time when you have your "average" temperature, as even this plays a role.
I'd leave it alone Mauser, as the needle position should be in the middle, and the variations are quite small too. Better still, if according to a dyno it has to be set close to or on a limit (with the rest fine!) then the needle system (needle & jet) is probably wrong, but now we're getting to the fine nitty gritty.
First get the idling perfect, and I mean perfect. Then the mids, which is indeed the needle system (however to a lesser extent also the main jet), and then lastly get the main (wide open!) correct. As said a dyno will get you all of this in minimum time, with the assurance that it's set correctly too - which you actually never really have if you tune by pants unless you dam well are cocksure that you know what you do, zero offense intended Mauser. This is also why I still have not done my main yet, although it goes well for those short times I open it up.
But I bought 3 needles, and found another one 'best' than the one widely recommended, especially low down I need perfect fueling for tricky manoeuvrings, and with lotsa openings it is less critical anyway. The dyno will tell me if I will keep this needle though - and you guessed it, it's set smack bang in the middle.
Hope this helps?
Guest- Guest
Re: Needle Clip Position Stock Carb
Thanks Burp, didn't know that it only affected the first bit sounds like mine is fine where it isAlso, the needle effects from say .2 to .8 throttle only
Won't bother pulling the slide just to see where it is sitting.
My riding has changed over the last couple of years, as I work for myself and get older I am always worried about having a fall from the bike, hurts and takes longer to heal as you start getting old lol. More than happy to ride my baby down more open tracks less hazzards and safer; sad I know but if I don't work my family suffers as I am the only worker and being self employed no work = no money; based on this the bike will fine left as you suggest, thanks for the info appreciated.
Mauser- XRR Monger
- Joined : 2010-09-13
Posts : 1970
Location : UK
XR650R Year : 2002
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