Rear Sprocket Bolts

Hi guys, any reason not to use standard stainless steel bolts for the rear sprocket ?, I know they are not high tensile but to be honest I don't do wheelie's or desert rides or anything even consider hard ?.
The heads on my current set-up seem really soft but they look like stock bolts ? was going to replace with a set of stainless ones ?.

I looked at doing the same but was advised by a bolt supply company that Stainless Steel bolts are not suitable for that application. I would have thought though that stainless bolts could be made to the correct rating but I would want to know for sure.

Regards
SkidMark

SkidMark wrote:I looked at doing the same but was advised by a bolt supply company that Stainless Steel bolts are not suitable for that application. I would have thought though that stainless bolts could be made to the correct rating but I would want to know for sure.

Regards
SkidMark

Ordered a set of stainless bolts, to shear through all 6 bolts will take some doing..... will leave them in for 6 months and then have a look and see if they are showing any signs of failure....but I doubt it

well one way to find out...

hopefully you'll be here in 6 months to let us know

dont forget the locktite

rikco wrote:dont forget the locktite

The nuts are locking nuts ?, no need for locktite ?

that was what i thaught also that time because i did not had loctite in da house, result you can see on the picture and that was only after 140km of riding

better safe then sorry believe me the torque of the pig is hard but you know that.

New sprocket = new bolts.
Every time.
And, re-torque after the first ride, the first ride being in a clean environment preferably.

Stainless bolts are not as strong as graded (8. bolts, they also are not harder, just more brittle.
Oh yah, they shine, and they don't rust as quick.... that's all they do actually.

BuRP wrote:New sprocket = new bolts.
Every time.
And, re-torque after the first ride, the first ride being in a clean environment preferably.

Stainless bolts are not as strong as graded (8. bolts, they also are not harder, just more brittle.
Oh yah, they shine, and they don't rust as quick.... that's all they do actually.

Yeah yeah yeah we know that's what your supposed to do but I don't have a new sprocket, just replacing the existing pins as they look mucky and when I tried to undo them to clean them the heads all chewed even with snap-on socket allen key bit ? soft as sh1t as they say lol.

Ok guys have said BURP new sprocket new bolts, I want to order a new chain and sprocket for my BRP, what brand and kind of chain should I order for her? also I want to try different gearing, yes BURP I know, I know the taste is dif for every rider but want to hear some ideas some prefer blondies, brunnette LOL ! also I will be ordering from the state, here in Canada they don't carry anything!.

I like OEM gear, DID chains never had any issues with them, still running stock chain on ZX12-R 13k miles and not needed to adjust it since buying the bike in 2007.

Sorry to barge in BikerMan, but you're talking about a fave subject of mine here.
Yeah, I also look at Blondes first, I think any guy does, it is simply natural. But I don't prefer them, a Brunette easily rattles my chain. But you're geared different you say? What about a Brazilian? Better make sure your razor's sharp then bro! Or a Russian for that matter, there simply is no cold left when seeing some of them. If freckles rock your sprocket then a Redhead is a must, but I'm geared towards a bit more tan.
You'll order from the States? Plenty Mexicans there I hear, and chaining them to a..........
Err, sorry, oopsy, I digress



You want steel sprockets only, no ali, and Ironman sprockets are the one's to go for. But, as you say tastes differ, so you might like the Stealth sprockets? I got both, albeit the latter on my superbike, the former on the Pig.
Funnily enough the Ironman's come with new bolts (........ ahem)! They are super-light (lighter than Stealth's!), last a looong time, and look the bollocks.
Chainwise I'm with Mauser, a DID I've yet to hear negative comments on - unlike other brands, and not-funny enough those are cheaper. Which DID depends on what you're willing to spend, O-ring or X-ring. For road an O's good enough, but for dirt an X's better... but not real necessary, basically your choice.
Personally I stay away from Tsubaki chains, and although Regina can be a good one I'll not put it on my bikes.
Which brings me to Italian women. They really look well after themselves, they're stunning, and also they.....



You get my drift surely?

Ooohhh BM,

there's a small niggly point left unsaid, and this is NOT dependant on personal taste: one MUST use a swaged link / rivet link on the Pig, in fact on anything over 51cc. Clip-type links are useless on motorbikes, they're for lawnmowers only.

So, order a chain braking tool with your stuff also - may I recommend DID's one? They have the best one, and yes, I practice as I preach, I got one. Once you have this tool it is a breeze to change your gearing/length/chain or whatever, so go get one, it is a tool for life.
Oh, then also get some spare (rivet!)links with your chain with your order, the best way to assure you'll get the correct one. And, if you really want to be safe then also order a spare pin with the DID-tool!
These pins can break but are loose available, but do not break if you do things correct, dunno how handy you are - and no, zero offense, I too have one.

Mauser wrote:

rikco wrote:dont forget the locktite

The nuts are locking nuts ?, no need for locktite ?

you must use loctite! even bimbling around as you say you do.why take a chance when its so cheap and easy to use?