ooeddym's XR overheats THEN runs like doo

LOL, I'm going to leave that alone. The biggest problem I have found is being out of shape is a killer when trying to throw that pig around. I did pick up a used ktm fan I'm looking to mount to the radiator to help control the heat when we are picking thought the trees. Both our bikes were up in the 240deg range when we were trying to find a path through the tight stuff.

ooeddym wrote:LOL, I'm going to leave that alone. The biggest problem I have found is being out of shape is a killer when trying to throw that pig around. I did pick up a used ktm fan I'm looking to mount to the radiator to help control the heat when we are picking thought the trees. Both our bikes were up in the 240deg range when we were trying to find a path through the tight stuff.

The fan will be really nice. Honestly I'm surprised we were able to tractor the XR's through the places we did. A couple times I know we both said "screw it", rippled the throttle and hoped to come out on the other side with the bike still running I think being able to run cooler would of really helped both bikes.

Around 230 degrees the bike really started to get blubbery.

MA$TER_E wrote:

-------------------- Eddy's Carb ----------------------------------------------- My Carb -----------------------


My Carb Now...

Masterblaster,

that epoxy was there for a reason - although it shouldn't have been right there, or that much for that matter.
The cover of this cavity has a tiny bore in it - and this little hole needs to be plugged, with a droplet of epoxy (so not a spoonfull) or silicone paste.
This will stop the engine's vacuum operating the diaphragm hence leaning-off on overrun, thus the engine will react a notch quicker when gassed again - and, reportedly, it also reduces rumbling / backfiring (which is sort-of normal anyway).
The previous owner - or whoever applied the goo you found - clearly misunderstood where it had to go, but now you know. Oh, Honda had this mechanism installed to get it through the environmental scrutiny, and if you condone this then reinstall the anti smog stuff also will ya?
So, go on then, off with those covers....

So that tiny little hole that gets the tiny little O-Ring in the cover at 10-o-clock in the picture below is the hole that was supposed to be plugged? I could very easily plug that one without even taking the carb off the bike. Is there a write-up somewhere that explains what exactly this does and what plugging it does for you?

So if I understand correctly, when you shut the throttle off this tiny hole allows the diaphragm to lean the bike out for emissions, so when you chuck the smog stuff you also plug this tiny hole, which prevents the leaning and makes the bike respond a little better when you get back on the throttle?

BuRP wrote:
The previous owner - or whoever applied the goo you found - clearly misunderstood where it had to go...

MA$TER_E wrote:So that tiny little hole that gets the tiny little O-Ring in the cover at 10-o-clock in the picture below is the hole that was supposed to be plugged?

To avoid further errors...this is it?

Yesss, that is the hole - in which the cover's small hole sits, and that one you plug, not the hole in the housing you circled.
As I said, a tiny droplet is enough to block it.

"So if I understand correctly, when you shut the throttle off this tiny hole allows the diaphragm to lean the bike out for emissions, so when you chuck the smog stuff you also plug this tiny hole, which prevents the leaning and makes the bike respond a little better when you get back on the throttle?"

Yay & Nay.
Most remove the anti-smog rubbish without plugging the hole in the cover, works fine.
But, to get this pump-less carb to react a little bit better (mind, it won't become a pumper suddenly) this hole is plugged. It does farkoll anyway, zero need for leaning off on overrun.

So I am still trying to identify what is causing the intermittent stuttering and I decided to pull the valve cover and look over the cam and I found this. Looks like i will need to aquire a new cam.

ooeddym wrote:Looks like i will need to aquire a new cam.

.... and rockers, and might as well check the shafts they turn on.
Funny question: are you a guy who, upon starting the bike, revs the shit out of it?
Because if so... you will replace this (plus possible other parts) more often as this is a ruining habit for an engine as there's no oil anywhere yet, besides the fact that the lot is cold then still.
If not - no offense intended pls, I just know that some dudes do.
Good luck spannering!

Good advice there Burp , i never rev the engine when cold and the oil still sits in the bottom of the engine .
There is new OEM camshaft for sale on american ebay mate and its cheap + plus he accepts offers , i wanted to buy it but the tit refuses to post outside USA , barsteward , well at least you willl get a good deal .

220827034835 this is the ebay number be quick as a pig

I don't dry rev my bikes warm or cold, I learned that lesson years ago the hard way. I like to let the bike warm up and get the oil flowing before I get on it. I haven’t had this bike very long, it had a hard life before I picked it up. I have gone through just about everything on it, the motor was the last piece to look at. Drained the oil after about 400 miles of riding and checked all the screens and filters everything looks good, no shrapnel like something is falling apart. pulled the jug and checked piston, wrist pin, big end clearances and everything measures within spec and honestly looks really good. The cracked cam is the only thing I have found that is bad and it appears like it has been like that for quite some time. I’m trying to decide if I should go with a stock cam or drop a stage one in it.
One funny thing, when I drained the oil I tipped the bike on its side trying to get every last bit out knowing I was going to pull the clutch side case cover. When I loosened the bolts on the case cover I had rags positioned just in case there was a little oil left in there so I didn’t make a mess and a little did seep out, but as soon as I grabbed the cover and popped it off the case, HOLY CRAP, it was like the Exxon Valdez. Even after you drain the oil there is still a ton of oil sitting in the bottom end, I had oil everywhere and was throwing rags at it like crazy to control the hazmat spill in my garage. Plus the pump is still primed with oil so when you turn the motor over by hand the now exposed oil lines shoot oil everywhere. Needless to say it was a total mess, I threw some more rags at it and walked away for the night in disgust. Tonight will be operation clean up.

ooeddym wrote:"HOLY CRAP, it was like the Exxon Valdez."
"Tonight will be operation clean up."

LOL! That's funny!

I'm kind of relieved your engine isn't completely crapped out like we were fearing. Your bike does have a dark past but the inners of your engine is a testament to how bullet proof these engines are. And thankfully it looks like it'll be the new and much cheaper Option 0.5; new cam. Which is bitter sweet because we still haven't a sold explanation for the stuttering issue. Like we've discussed I like the idea unplugging EVERYTHING next ride. Literally stripped down to exciter coil, pick-up, CDI, ignition coil and a kill switch.

If it still does it after that my guess is it'll take 3 rounds... To take the jug completely off with your 50

I agree, cheap xr with big hole in motor