jerky pig

have you checked the operation of the acl valve?

Yesterday, I posted this on the wrong post.

Air cutoff valve bad?

Are the jets and needle OEM Keihin or aftermarket? You must use OEM. Aftermarket manufacture's jets and needles can be all over the place in regard to true size due to crappy manufacturing tolerances. For example, even though it states it is a 68 the true sie could be a 60.

Some bikes like 70 pilot.

So you float is at the proper level?

Did you properly assembled Air cutoff valve bad?

Are the jets and needle OEM Keihin or aftermarket? You must use OEM. Aftermarket manufacture's jets and needles can be all over the place in regard to true size due to crappy manufacturing tolerances. For example, even though it states it is a 68 the true sie could be a 60.

Some bikes like 70 pilot.

So you float is at the proper level?

Did you properly assemble the fuel/air screw?

What octane gasoline are you using?
Standing for 4 months the only thing that would realy change is the octane number decreasing

Mark,

on the LHS of the std carb is a lil' cover - behind which a small membrane lives.
The cover has a tiny bore in it - plug it with a drop of silicone or epoxy glue.
Let dry, reassemble & ride.... better now?

  

hmmmm - you think that will fix? I had the carb apart and checked all that was in good condition and working but decided not to do that mod becasue of mixed reviews online - will give it ago though if you think that will fix it.

Cheers
SkidMark

SkidMark wrote:hmmmm - you think that will fix?  I had the carb apart and checked all that was in good condition and working but decided not to do that mod becasue of mixed reviews online - will give it ago though if you think that will fix it.

Cheers
SkidMark

I agree I wouldn't bugger with my carb, try something less radical if you can maybe a rubber bung you could remove easily...pop it in try her out see what happens etc....
I heard another fix was to turn your carb right round and fit it backwards....not sure if it's a reliable source or not

Mauser wrote:try something less radical

Maybe cheaper petrol?   
It won't die becouse of a few dozens of miles, it didn't even when I had to fill it with 3/4 80-octane gasoline and 1/4 diesel mix in the middle of nowhere, just a little detonation if whacked the throttle to hard

MCVL wrote:

Mauser wrote:try something less radical

Maybe cheaper petrol?   
It won't die becouse of a few dozens of miles, it didn't even when I had to fill it with 3/4 80-octane gasoline and 1/4 diesel mix in the middle of nowhere, just a little detonation if whacked the throttle to hard

My comments were aimed at Mark's problems   

Mauser wrote:
My comments were aimed at Mark's problems   

Oh, smth about the chain slack problem, I didn't see it, sry
P.S. I must have overworked a bit  

Mauser wrote:

SkidMark wrote:hmmmm - you think that will fix?  I had the carb apart and checked all that was in good condition and working but decided not to do that mod becasue of mixed reviews online - will give it ago though if you think that will fix it.

Cheers
SkidMark

I agree I wouldn't bugger with my carb, try something less radical if you can maybe a rubber bung you could remove easily...pop it in try her out see what happens etc....
I heard another fix was to turn your carb right round and fit it backwards....not sure if it's a reliable source or not  

That is very dangerous mod mauser , it will add extra 20 hp to he bike and people cannot handle all that power - resulting in nasty accidents   

Kepp your sticky fingers of my posts   

TJE wrote: ... and clearly a virgin mechanic too!

Thomas, I'll be honest with you: I am ab-so-lu-te-ly fed up with my current job, and wish to relocate, do something else or whatever, but a change it must be!
Hence me taking interest in your line above, it tickled my fancy immeasurably!
Please help this old geezer to indulge a bit will ya?
Where do I go for training to become a virgin mechanic, what are the cost involved, and does one get to work on real virgins?