Oil Capacity

Hi Pros

I just did an oil change , but I don't have a dipstick. From completely empty and a new filter I have put 1.6 Litres in. Is this correct?

Also how many hard miles do I cover between oil and filter changes please?

That's spot on 1.6 litres.. engine wont be completely dry unless you stripped her down?....and I would change every 300-500 miles depending on usage...oil is cheap...engine aren't lol

No strip down, just frame and sump plugs and new filter...

Kicked it dry with the sump plug out, and the filter out...

Thanks for your help...

Yo J,

no dipstick?
Get one, plus get the oil-level sight tube which allows you to see the level whilst riding!
I agree with Maus', renew the oil often enough, it'll make you & the engine feel better

Cheers Burp,

500 mile intervals is more than enough then? I can live with 500 mile oil changes... Thanks...

Also I will get a dipper as soon as I find one...

Put a semi synthetic in, or a full synth if you can afford it.
Shell Helix Ultra (top of Helix range, in a grey (not yellow!) can here) is a 5W40 full synth, reasonably priced and will be purrfect. Otherwise a Shell Rimula X or Caltex Delo 400.
If you google these oils are used in heavy hauling things, diesels yes, hence they'll be very well suited for our beloved thumper!
500mi is fine, just measure the tanks of fuel you burn and use that as a yardstick.
Stock up on copper washers, you will want to renew them from time to time.

Thanks Burp,

I bought the Motul 10/40 fully synth, and I have enough for one more change. Is that stuff any good?

What size copper washers do you keep a stock of, or should I buy please?

Jason Woodall wrote:Thanks Burp,

I bought the Motul 10/40 fully synth, and I have enough for one more change. Is that stuff any good?

What size copper washers do you keep a stock of, or should I buy please?

 J
I have heard good reviews about motul, i run the shell Rotella 15w40 (white bottle) and my piggy loves it and its cheap enough here in the states! I might try the Rotella t6 synth next oil change. the crankcase drain bolt washer i believe is 12mm and the frame is 8mm might try your local hardware store as they might stock copper washers bring your bolts and old washers with you too match up!

Motul oils are good, and costly.
Motul is one of the few real oil makers meaning they really make their own stuff, not like the advertising-king (a can of the worst springs to mind) which has all his stuff made from generic base oils with some additives chucked in.
By all means buy & use Motul, the high price will get you good stuff.

My point only is, was & will be, that any oil from a global (fuel!) brand name (Esso, BP, Shell, Agip, Elf, Caltex and why) will perform as per what the tin says, and because of the volumes their price is fair if not downright cheap... which still leaves the product (oil here) a good one.
I renew oils (in my bikes) way sooner than prescribed, and prefer (personal prerogative) Shell because of their sterling oils available here - Helix, Rimula & Rotella.
Agip has the Saint/Sint/St2000 oil which was the first real true synth, still a superb oil, and I'm sure Esso (not in the RSA) has good oils too. Ask any long haul trucker (who OWNS his rig) what he uses (yes, a diesel oil), and if that is a xW40 then use that. I'd stay away from 0W20 or 0W30 oils though, let the first number be a 5 (like 5W40), unless you live in the Arctic.

Oh, a diesel oil differs mainly (from petrol engine oils) in that the suspension dope (the bit that keeps the rubbish moving in the oil, in suspension) and the detergent dope (the bit which cleans the engine's internals, it prevents deposits) are higher, making for cleaner engines in which the maximum is filtered out by the oilfilter - nice eh? Oh, this difference is becoming less & less lately, some oils are same, you use them in any engine you like..... but I men tion this because some will say "diesel? Not me, wrong, mine is petrol" - and they're wrong  

In addition (rather than editing the above), real synthetic oils are (part) Esters - which clean forking well (better than mineral oils!) on top of being good lubricants! Also, an ester 'clings' (sticks!) better (than mineral or processed mineral=semi synth) to metals (little or no adhesion dope), so it does not run off as easy.... leaving oil present also after a long period of non use!
And THAT bit is the main reason why I use pure synth's only, it lubes best in marginal conditions - starting, cold running & overload conditions!

Know that a (multigrade!) mineral oil can contain up to 20% of volume in dopes (are NOT oils!) which means the actual lubricant is only 80% - this in stark contradiction to full synth's which contain little dopes >> you get more lubricant of a better quality!

Wow a lot of useful information there, thanks...

I can swallow the price of Motul, as I don't do a lot of miles on my pig...