Electrically challenged!!

Ok, as the forum title suggests, I am very electrically challenged!!

My BRP came with a 12v output socket.

Since it has no battery I presume that the 'stator' is generating whatever power a battery equipped motorcycle would generate???

The 12v output socket on the bike, with a USB adaptor attached, puts out enough power to power up my GPS or iPhone, but I don't think that it's charging them up. They run, but the battery doesn't seem to charge up.

Is this normal?? Is the XR's stator so weedy that it doesn't pump out the 1amp needed to charge an iPhone?

I really haven't a clue how this electrical black magic works, so if anyone can shed any light/ watts/ amps/ ohms I'd really appreciate it!!

Depending on which stator your bike has it will produce wither 55 Watts or 74 watts ?. basically American models will run the 55 watt stator as they only have a plastic 35 watt headlight and a 3.4 watt tail light, rest of the world runs the higher stator for indicators, brake lights, horn etc...
So if you take your stator output and divide by 12 volts you will get your available amps...roughly 4.5 amps and 6 amps...with this you then need to take away whatever your CDI needs to run the bike and any fixed wiring items like lights etc...what your left with should then run your USB/Phone etc...now if your devices need more than what you have they simply won't charge up...
Hope that helps a bit

Ok. Thanks Mauser. That helps a lot.

So I've got a standard UK bike with headlights, indicators, horn, etc, the stator is 74w? 74w divided by 12 is 6.2.

Does anyone know what a standard UK bike then needs to run it's standard electrics? (cos thats what I've got.) and what has it got left over to run gadgets?

OK 6.2amps total then you have to take off your headlight/tail light ?...but if they are switched off then all your using is the CDI then you should have plenty....but wait thinking about it; the stator has 3 parts 1 part doing the CDI pickup coil which tells your bike when to fire, then there is a set of winding which does the lights (AC Only) and another pair which does the rectified DC side....horn and I think indicators ?
so you might only end up with less than half of the total output power on the DC side which feeds your USB socket ?...

Mauser wrote:the stator has 3 parts

You're sure about that?
Dual ignition windings yes, but I think the rest is one, feeding both the AC & DC circuits.
Could be wrong but don't think so....

BuRP wrote:

Mauser wrote:the stator has 3 parts

You're sure about that?
Dual ignition windings yes, but I think the rest is one, feeding both the AC & DC circuits.
Could be wrong but don't think so....

Looking at the drawing it does ?

You can see the pickup coil....1 Part
And the two separate windings....2 Parts
1+2=3

Nope, and that schematic is from the 'all-AC' model I think.

(Edited)
Correct, this is all-AC diagram with the hooter also an AC unit.... no DC anywhere - no indicators either hmm?
Better check IF your "12V output socket" outputs 1) 12V ?, and 2) DC ?
Could well be that it supplies AC - and then your convertor may output a little (I wonder?) but definitely not the amperage it should.

In any case, I think the OP's problem is the 'raw' DC (varying Voltage, spiked etc) which his USB-convertor does not like too much, not the amperage available: try another convertor?



And Mauser, your "You can see the pickup coil....1 Part" is wrong, that's NOT part of the stator.... so less 1 part
That lil' coil sits on top of the flywheel, this whilst the stator sits inside it...... lol Bru, you want me to draw you a piccie?
Ya, sure, all interconnected by means of the same short wire harness but pls don't blame me that the one's not part of the other name-wise

Nahhh the pickup is within the stator cover so classes as part of the wiring....even goes up the same sheath....


That loom diagram I posted was my slightly modified version.....no need to thank me for it you can re-wire your bike same as mine I don't mind

Ya, Maus, yayaya.... but if you'll draw it I can give you a minute mod (4 diodes) so that one can use a DC-hooter.
Or, after having done the above, a DC-indicator relay with a lil capacitor (small!), which' supply could also power a low-amp DC-output.... like the one the OP has or needs.
Mind, UNregulated, so the voltage will be all over, up to 18V I reckon (spikes), which an indicator will probably handle well enough, and a proper (not Chinese streetcorner junk) USB adaptor will do too.