Hello everyone, I bought a new toy :)

Last Sunday I bought my new to me 05' XR650r. I've had quite a few bikes 04' SV-650 I miss dearly I put 15,000 miles on, 09' ZX-6R I rode for 18,000 miles converted to a track bike then sold to my buddy, an 11' SM-630 which I had a lot of fun on but was a HUGE pile and sold at 4,500 miles before something else went wrong with it and my latest baby 11' ZX-6R that I've been on for 4,000 miles and is being converted to a track bike as I type.

I won a hefty award taking the race track to the street and have had to learn that lesson, which I new better but did anyway... So with the passing of a couple friends and my hefty award I decided it would be in my driving record and personal best interest to buy a dual sport and go play in the woods out of range of highway patrols LIDAR...

So this XRR has been bitter sweet so far. Its a beast and I love it! I'm very impressed with the power but man it sure needs some TLC. The guy snowed me over pretty good. Said "Oh yeah, I just serviced the air filter and changed the oil so its good to go." I should have looked before buying it but its a little too late now. I'm not sure how one can call knocking the big chucks off and pouring oil on a crumbly foam air filter 'servicing' but I digress...

It needs some TLC. Got most of it apart last night and plan to do a full blown service and check/clean up everything (the guy wasn't very good at getting oil in the hole) I've been eyeballing/lusting over the Trail Tech Voyager and will be doing the BD 250w dual output stator soon. So even with all the issues I've been finding I still am pretty happy with it and look forward to harvesting some XR info from the community.

If anyone has put together some schematics for their bike I'd love to see them. Debating on making a new wire harness that'll have all the wires I need and want.

Cheers!



Eric

Here she is pre disassembly


The 'serviced' air filter with a glimpse of the wiring harness disaster...


Some cable management slathered in oil...


And a little carbon on the spark plug...

XR650 is an awesome bike!
The stock air filters crumble like that. Mine was the same way. Just get an UNI airfilter and the oil + cleaner for it.
What part of your wiring is messed up?
Not a fan of the aftermarket gas tank but to each's own.
Have you checked the thermostat? The factory ones get stuck.

BMKTW2 wrote:XR650 is an awesome bike!
The stock air filters crumble like that. Mine was the same way. Just get an UNI airfilter and the oil + cleaner for it.
What part of your wiring is messed up?
Not a fan of the aftermarket gas tank but to each's own.
Have you checked the thermostat? The factory ones get stuck.

Hey I'm a K&N or BMC guy. All my race bikes have them and I've got all the oils and cleaner for them so I went with one of those. I know a lot of BRP riders frown on them for not being as superior as a UNI in regards to filtration. But with how I'm going to ride I think the K&N will be fine. 70% street 30% fire roads.

After getting deeper into the wire harness last night it's really not as messed up as I thought. It just needs to be straightened out and routed a little better. I'm sure I'll be changing something though when I add the new stator.

Thanks for the tip on the thermostat. I'll have to check it and honestly while I've got it pulled apart I'll probably replace it. Thats something I haven't read up on a whole lot yet. What do people replace the OEM thermostat with? I recall reading something about a Suzuki something or other???

Replace it with a new one from XR's only or something like that.
OR
Just take it out all together

BMKTW2 wrote:
Just take it out all together

Now that is a patently bad idea, especially as this is an aluminium piston in an aluminium cylinder.... loadsa play (hence wear!) when cold & cool, and the removal of the thermostat would effect exactly that.
Get XRsOnly one, opens ~2degC earlier, and apparently has no problems with sticking. I'd drill a 3mm hole in the rim to aid air bleeding, and yes, that also will help to run it a bit cooler albeit a minute bit, you won't notice.

BuRP wrote:
Now that is a patently bad idea, especially as this is an aluminium piston in an aluminium cylinder.... loadsa play (hence wear!) when cold & cool, and the removal of the thermostat would effect exactly that.
Get XRsOnly one, opens ~2degC earlier, and apparently has no problems with sticking. I'd drill a 3mm hole in the rim to aid air bleeding, and yes, that also will help to run it a bit cooler albeit a minute bit, you won't notice.

What he said

LIDAR problem solved.

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Welcome aboard!

The stock Honda air filter works very well.

It looks like my stock air filter has been working well for some time now But after last night I think I've got bigger issues than an old air filter. Pulled the stator cover and started measuring resistance through the coils, unplugged and off the bike. The Lighting coil measured 0.5 Ohm and the Ignition coil is measuring at 90 Ohms.

What the manual says and what my wires are actually colored is a little different. Either I'm measuring from the wrong place or my wires are different.

Master,

how many poles are wound with wire & painted-over with epoxy? Put it this way, got "empty" poles?
If not then you have an uprated stator, either bought or did-ed, with a higher output than the std one.

It appears to all be stock. 2 poles for primary and 4 poles for lighting. I was planning to remove the OE lighting coil and rewind it for dual outputs 5 poles each. But if the primary coil is no good that makes me uneasy about rewinding that one too. I dont want to assume the the primary coil is wound just like all the other coils. I'd imagine it is but don't know for sure. Worst case I guess is it wouldn't work and I'd just buy a high output stator...

That looks to me like a low output stator....just enough to run the bike + tail and dipped lights.
Get a European stator or do the rewind mod.

Mauser wrote:That looks to me like a low output stator....just enough to run the bike + tail and dipped lights.
Get a European stator or do the rewind mod.

Yup its low output for sure. The plan is to rewind it. But I cant find any info on the primary coil. The manual only gives a resistance value through the lighting coil. Which is .2-1ohm... The bike was dying on me while riding to work at 5AM in the dark. Very strange issue and am unsure if its an electrical or carb issue. Figure the stator needs rewound to run the goodies I want anyway so I'll start there.

You need a real good DMM (Fluke in your lang I hunch ) to measure small Ohmic values accurately, say below 1. That means that a 'low' reading is as good as 'low', not more, so if I were you I'd look elsewhere to pinpoint a faulty ignition, as the coil hardly ever goes - if it all, I actually have never heard of a faulty one on the Pig.
These 2 coils are just a power supply, and I would expect a low resistance for them.
Lighting-wise yeah, you'll need to rewind or buy a rewound unit if you want more that the std candles.

BuRP wrote:You need a real good DMM (Fluke in your lang I hunch ) to measure small Ohmic values accurately, say below 1. That means that a 'low' reading is as good as 'low', not more, so if I were you I'd look elsewhere to pinpoint a faulty ignition, as the coil hardly ever goes - if it all, I actually have never heard of a faulty one on the Pig.
These 2 coils are just a power supply, and I would expect a low resistance for them.
Lighting-wise yeah, you'll need to rewind or buy a rewound unit if you want more that the std candles.

The only reason I'm thinking the primary/exciter coil is bad is because its measuring 90 ohms. I can't find a spec or anyone to confirm what the resistance through the primary/exciter coil should be. But if its only two coils wound with the same gauge wire as the lighting coil then it should be between 0.1 and 1.0 ohm. At least thats the spec provided for the lighting coil...

MA$TER_E wrote:

BuRP wrote:You need a real good DMM (Fluke in your lang I hunch ) to measure small Ohmic values accurately, say below 1. That means that a 'low' reading is as good as 'low', not more, so if I were you I'd look elsewhere to pinpoint a faulty ignition, as the coil hardly ever goes - if it all, I actually have never heard of a faulty one on the Pig.
These 2 coils are just a power supply, and I would expect a low resistance for them.
Lighting-wise yeah, you'll need to rewind or buy a rewound unit if you want more that the std candles.

The only reason I'm thinking the primary/exciter coil is bad is because its measuring 90 ohms. I can't find a spec or anyone to confirm what the resistance through the primary/exciter coil should be. But if its only two coils wound with the same gauge wire as the lighting coil then it should be between 0.1 and 1.0 ohm. At least thats the spec provided for the lighting coil...

Would have thought reading would have been higher rather than low as smaller the surface area of the conductor the higher the resistance...larger cable = lowe resistance....
Pink wire to yellow wire 0.1~1.0 Ohm
White/Yellow wire to ground 0.2~1.2 Ohms

Mauser wrote:
Pink wire to yellow wire 0.1~1.0 Ohm
White/Yellow wire to ground 0.2~1.2 Ohms

Yup I have that very same spec. Page 17-9 of the manual under Alternator Inspection. Doesn't mention anything about the resistance through the primary coil. Brown and Black/Red wires.

MA$TER_E wrote:

Mauser wrote:
Pink wire to yellow wire 0.1~1.0 Ohm
White/Yellow wire to ground 0.2~1.2 Ohms

Yup I have that very same spec. Page 17-9 of the manual under Alternator Inspection. Doesn't mention anything about the resistance through the primary coil. Brown and Black/Red wires.

From another source.....
Brand new coil and cap reads - 10.9k

A reply from Ricky Stator on some other forum I troll.

Exciter, Black/Red to brown= 90 ohms
Pule Generator, Blue/Yellow to Green/White= about 250 ohms
Lighting coil, green to White/Yellow= 0-1 ohm

Ja, makes sense, it IS a pwr coil(s) but the voltage is around 400V, so obviously the resistance will read higher. It actually does not deliver a lot of power, it is only the ignition.
Besides, it works, not so?

BuRP wrote:
Besides, it works, not so?

Lets just say I have no faith in it. Something was choking my bike to death. I'm 80% sure it was an electrical issue of some kind but cannot say for sure. I was on my way to work at 5AM in the morning and it started to surge and lights dim. The surging progressively got worse as I slowed and as soon as I pulled the clutch in; dead.

Scrambling around at 5AM along the side of a busy freeway trying to figure out whats wrong with your new bike wasn't much fun. Nothing looked obvious, vital juices and its whirly bits were all still inside so I gave it a kick and it fired right up and ran fine until it did it 3 more times in the next 2.5 miles. The last time I was far enough off the main highway system to run it without the headlight on and made it to work just fine. Since I've stripped it down and am going through everything cleaning and checking for anything.

I've spoken with Ricky Stator this morning. What an awesome bunch of people. They're making it very difficult for me to not just buy their stator. I might just bag the whole rewinding ordeal and buy a whole new stator that's guaranteed to work.

Its looking much better. There was a lot of oil all over everything. I'm picking up some new Jets for the carb this weekend and will be starting to put her back together. We've been spending so much quality time together in the garage I've even given her a nickname.

Nude shot of Beasty all cleaned up