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Cracked OEM Rims...

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Post  Guest Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:34 am

Let me begin by saying, I am GREEN. I know nearly nothing about my XR except that it makes my face hurt from smiling... Please give me some low-down on my rim situation... I don't want my face to be hurting from not smiling.

Some time ago I noticed two small cracks on my OEM DID front rim on either side of what I think is the factory weld (see pics).
The Front Left:  https://i.servimg.com/u/f58/18/78/19/11/frontl13.jpg
The Front Right: Cracked OEM Rims... Frontr10

I thought that possibly it happened to me when I lower psi to around 12 and ride deep sand and then the transitional road has some decent sized rocks. Kind of hard to believe though because I try to miss them all and I am riding at very low speeds (20-30mph)...

Noticed another crack in my rear today...
Cracked OEM Rims... Rearri10


I'm replacing them of course, ASAP. I've decided on getting some excel rims for sure based on all the threads and advice, and I'm thinking of using my OEM spokes and Hub. I'm going to attempt it myself and bring it to a shop to true and balance tire. I had a shop quote me 80 to lace a rim to a hub, sounds pretty reasonable really! I bet it would take me all day...

Can anyone tell me if it's okay to ride low speeds with this kind of rim damage? I was told OEM rims were supposed to flatten, not crack..  Also, any suggestions on Rim and choice of re-using old OEM spokes and hubs?

Thank you XR Wizards!
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Post  Guest Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:43 am

Well, if you're green then bugger off please, this is a site for RED okes!!!!
 BRP smile 

Replace them soonest or have them welded (no problem), but riding this "low speed" you won't do anyway - it's a 650 eh? - and shit will happen to anyone, so U2  Bump 
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Post  Guest Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:37 pm

Ah man...busted... I open it up on every straight away.. beat head 

    Thanks for the input. I talked to a few of my welder savvy friends about it. Some were under the impression that it was aluminum and couldn't/shouldn't be welded. A good friend of mine and perhaps the best welder in our tiny mountain town of about 700 people agreed that it could but seemed reluctant based on it's viability and liability...

    I'm thinking front rim is priority since the crack is on both sides and runs width wise threatening to meet eventually...

Of course, by "Green" I meant super nube, NOT a KAW fan. and not driven primarily by environmental concerns!  Very Happy

   I plan to be an active member here and many of my questions will be dumb and for many of you like a journey back to grade school. I'll try to read up ahead of time as to limit the redundancy and elementary nature of my posts. I'm fine with being made fun of for my lack of knowledge but please throw in a helpful tip with your mockery?

 I've ridden an old school hodaka, a handfull of YZs, and am in the process of getting the top end on a little YZ 150 resleeved that I picked up for 100$ but the difference between my XR and anything I've ever ridden is night/day/and the moon. I can already say that for me, it's Big Red til my deathbed!

Thanks for the speedy reply and helpful input BuRP!
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Post  Guest Thu Mar 13, 2014 4:20 pm

brendan - welcome and I think you will fit in very well with that attitude...   banana
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Post  Guest Thu Mar 13, 2014 6:02 pm

Aluminium ("al-U-min" in your lingo  BRP smile ) rims - and these are not even anodized, ie purrfect! - can definitely be welded.
TIG welding required, and a welder who's worth his salt, so pls not a helpful-but-amateur friend. I'd not even de-spoke the wheels, just weld them as-is, and true them afterwards.

Hey, and what's wrong with a Kawa? Nothing bru, especially when it's a 2smoker  Very Happy 

Goodluck, and have fun!
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Post  Guest Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:27 pm

Right on BuRP!
Thanks, and yes this guy is a professional. Don't know if he's done rims before but we'll see.

Should I loosen spokes and retighten and true afterwards?

Any other special procedures. I guess I'll look for a "guide" or more info in case he's never done rims before.
You wouldn't happen to know of a good link or guidelines to welding rims would you? Do you know if the weld is ground and polished all the way or left protruding?

Thanks again man!
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Post  Mauser Thu Mar 13, 2014 11:17 pm

I would weld them from the inside and grind them back, get your grinder/dremel out and creat an undercut where you want the weld so you get proper penetration, once done grind back and carry on riding till you find a new set.....most important thing is to clean your bike and don't ever get it dirty  BRP smile 
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Post  Guest Fri Mar 14, 2014 8:49 am

brendan.pulver.1 wrote:Should I loosen spokes and retighten and true afterwards?

Yip, take most tension off beforehand. Let the welder do the prepping himself, however thorough cleaning you better do first.
If you use tetrachlorethylene (or any brake cleaner / degreaser) for this then make damn sure it is fully dry, and in any case tell the welder you used it - as it can be dangerous!
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Post  Guest Fri Mar 14, 2014 9:05 am

Oh, Mauser, better keep doing what you do now  Bump 
A welder will weld from both sides, and probably start from the hub's side  Wink 
You see, you want to 'melt in' into the first weld, the backing, for best results.

Brendan, if I were you I'd not fully flatten the visible side, however ask the welder. The tyre's side you'll have to of course, neat & smooth. "Grinding".... use a file bru, safer, a machine stuffs up too quick  BRP smile


Last edited by BuRP on Fri Mar 14, 2014 9:07 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Me speling zucks)
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Post  Mauser Fri Mar 14, 2014 9:17 am

BuRP wrote:Oh, Mauser, better keep doing what you do now  Bump 
A welder will weld from both sides, and probably start from the hub's side  Wink 
You see, you want to 'melt in' into the first weld, the backing, for best results.

Brendan, if I were you I'd not fully flatten the visible side, however ask the welder. The tyre's side you'll have to of course, neat & smooth. "Grinding".... use a file bru, safer, a machine stuffs up too quick  BRP smile

Hey I have you know I have C&G in welding & fabrication which I completed before you were born laddie  listen up  Penetration will come through the rim if done properly you don't normally weld both sides.....?

Cracked OEM Rims... Candg
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Post  Guest Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:49 pm

Wow, you guys are so helpful! Really making me feel welcome!  banana 

1. Keep the bike spotless at all times but slather the chain in WD-40 and then throw gritty sand on liberally, got it!
2. Obtain an old XR from a clinically declared mental patient and don't check rims for true. Check.
3. Ride with low PSI on rocks and such. Check!

I'm learning so much! haha
Welder buddy is coming by today to have a look. I think what happened here is the wheels have been out of true for some time... Probably developed some flat spots as a result of improper care, riding, non-maintenance, no Lovin  Frustrated I mean the previous owner left it out in the frigid Colorado winter without a jacket.... and ran 85 octane gas...
Luckily he dumped it somewhere around 2-300 miles of riding it ( 90% on pavement, low speeds I'm sure) bent up the left footpeg and tweaked the bars waaay out like 30 degrees. These XRs are just amazingly tough as I'm learning. Someone told me that when rims fail they fling into peices instantaneously.. is that true? seems hard to believe with all the spokes... hmmm
Every time you guys respond, I'm going to have 100 more questions for ya, but I'll try to keep it to just a couple at a time.. Please let me know if I'm breaking any forum rules/protocol by swerving off topic... I'm new to forums
The three owners before mentalcase were serious enthusiasts that knew their shtuff on bikes. I'm learning about all the aftermarket mods on this thing... It has the clear oil line sight (whatchamacallit), High compression computer fans in the radiator, streeted with digi spedo, aftermarket tank, crazy sprockets (max speed is about 80). anyway I'll find out more...
The self proclaimed "engine whisperer" that owned it before mentaldude said change oil with 0weight AMS oil every 2000-3000miles, use Aviation fuel (20%), 91 octane (80%), and a half a can of yellow heet (methanol). Seems to add quite a bit of punch and sounds yummy and cools engine.
Currently it has no rack or frame on rear making it difficult to pick up and move around... looking into something that bolts to frame for a little pack and a handle.
I was able to find a new set of pirelli scorpions but after those are toast I will probably get some hybrids that arent so knobby for commute to work on dirt/pavement/ offroad mix a few miles a day. Ideally I would have 2 complete sets.. on and off z road.  Very Happy 
Chain Lube... Sucks? don't use? Pretty sandy here in the San Luis Valley of Southern Colorado. Don't want to attract dirt but also don't want gritty and in them chain links any suggestions?
Many more qs but wouldn't want to piss anyone off/annoy anyone...

You guys want to see rim weld pics when I get it done?
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Post  Mauser Fri Mar 14, 2014 5:38 pm

Piccies are always welcome the same as new members Smile....going back to rims exploding to be honest we don't get many horror stories on this forum and I think a lot of the stories which float about are just that...just cause some guys busts a wheel doing something stupid doesn't mean every piggy is prone to having their wheels bust....bit like the clutch bush problem..OK some have failed in the past but like most things unless you replicate the conditions in which they fail your unlikely to have any problems..after all there wasn't a recall done on the bush or sprocket seal ?....keep her clean and look after her and she will serve you well  BRP smile same goes for the bike lol.
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Post  Mauser Fri Mar 14, 2014 5:40 pm

Hmmm no code requested now ?
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