Headlight bulb

My Piggy has a CRF230 headlight and surround (I got her like that).

The bulb is a 30W/30W or 35W/35W (can't remember which but it doesn't really matter because it is crap). The globe has a round base with a single tiny tab sticking out to locate it.

Do any of you good people know of one of the bulbs on this page are suitable upgrades? http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffybulbs.htm

This is the one that looks like it will fit - 35W/35W halogen

This is even better - Anyone tried one of these?

For you guys in the UK, see the LED at the bottom of this page -

http://www.hids-direct.co.uk/categories/motorbikes/motorbike-atv-bulbs/h6m-p15d-25-1-hs

And another halogen option

http://www.amazon.com/P15d-25-1-Chinese-Wheeler-Scooter-Pocket/dp/B00G5OHFVC

Friend of mine bought one of these for his scooter but with the P15D-25-1 fitting (same as XR), his original globes were 2x 18W/18W - This is a 20W LED and he tells me the difference is night and day - cost equivalent of about 30 quid

Chris_w_65 wrote:Friend of mine bought one of these for his scooter but with the P15D-25-1 fitting (same as XR), his original globes were 2x 18W/18W - This is a 20W LED and he tells me the difference is night and day - cost equivalent of about 30 quid

And it blew up after 2 days

About the same time as my AC LED bulb lol....

I now have the CRF450X globe in my CRF230 headlight - It is a halogen 35/35 and is slightly better (very expensive globe at about $30.00 from Honda but I managed to get one out a spare 450X headlight).

Next option would be to buy a plastic surround and switch to the 450X headlight but the guys on the forums say they are crap too.

Anyone tried an XR650L headlight and surrounds on a BRP? I think that is a 55/55 and pretty decent from when I was riding a 650L at night.

Any other suggestions for a decent light? I don't like the weird aftermarket light styling much.

Who was it that said a Euro Piggy has a 74W lighting circuit? I have LED at the back and a 35/35 headlight - As I press my Hi/Lo switch then both filaments come on momentarily but very dim and orange. Surely if I had 74W then both filaments would light up bright??

Anyone tried an HID headlight? I guess the AC would have to be rectified first.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Motorcycle-Integration-Of-H6M-Hid-Xenon-Lamp-35w-Hid-Conversion-Kit-moto-hid-high-and-low/32237758344.html

You have 74watts total on UK/EU bikes

Mauser wrote:You have 74watts total on UK/EU bikes

Does anyone have the recipe to improve this (rewind)? Unfortunately with our exchange rate the way it is I won't be buying a Ricky Stator

So I saw this on extremelights.co.za. Should work fine on the BRP stock stator.

http://www.extremelights.co.za/adding-dc-led-spots-to-a-ktm-rally-bike-ac-system/

I was thinking maybe do the 20w headlight setup as they did then use the extra 15w for a Lo beam setup which then also gives you three led lights at 30-35W as a Hi beam.
Looks like a really simple solution, my only concern is whether the capacitor will hold up and save the LED's from getting fried.

A friend has volunteered to build a bridge regulator/rectifier for me so will update when I get around to doing it (sometime in the next two months or so).

Thanks Hendrik

Does anyone know if this is same or similar to the little box and capacitor behind my headlight.

On a stock Euro model do the tail/brake, horn and indicators already run off DC?

Hi Chris, tail light is AC and the unit behind the headlight is a rectifier/regulator

So the BRP electrics can be summarized as follows:

From the stator you havea an AC supply to your ignition etc., AC supply via regulator to headlight/tail light and low capacity DC supply to indicators/horn via regulator/rectifier behind the screen(on DK models).

The headlight is allocated 35W on the stock setup.

So your stock DC setup will not run a headlight methinks.

Hendrik wrote:So the BRP electrics can be summarized as follows:

From the stator you havea an AC supply to your ignition etc., AC supply via regulator to headlight/tail light and low capacity DC supply to indicators/horn via regulator/rectifier behind the screen(on DK models).

The headlight is allocated 35W on the stock setup.

So your stock DC setup will not run a headlight methinks.

Well put couldn't have said it better

Hendrik wrote:So I saw this on extremelights.co.za. Should work fine on the BRP stock stator.

http://www.extremelights.co.za/adding-dc-led-spots-to-a-ktm-rally-bike-ac-system/

I was thinking maybe do the 20w headlight setup as they did then use the extra 15w for a Lo beam setup which then also gives you three led lights at 30-35W as a Hi beam.
Looks like a really simple solution, my only concern is whether the capacitor will hold up and save the LED's from getting fried.

Yip, simplicity itself - just be aware that the LED's 'ground' is NOT the frame (which is AC-"ground" ie is not a ground at all!), keep them insulated like any supply wiring.
A decent-sized capacitor will be required if the LED-spots have a driver (electronics) - which will probably be the case. A LED could not care less about erratic supply, it is a basic rectifier... but the driver-circuitry will do indeed, which means mount a nice big capacitor on the DC-side of the bridge. Oh, take 'big' in a physical sense, and if the voltage-rating is good enough (25VDC or 40VDC) then they last forever.

A Solstice 10W LED spot produces infinitely more light than the stock candle, at only a third of the current usage of the std candle.
Bit pricey but very much worth it!

So the first setup I am going to try is this:

http://www.extremelights.co.za/product/auto-headlights-pro-series/

Wiring diagram: (Ignore the ktm labels, I modified it to suit my needs)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwzrAa0LKnUFa21RcU54TU5YRmM/view?usp=sharing

I might wire a single rectifier/capacitor pair before the light switch otherwise, need to take a look at my bike's wiring first.

Hendrik jong,

better change '470uF' to 2500uF or thereabouts, and rate the (electrolytic!) cap at 40VDC. Communica will be your friend, and ask for a brand instead of a chingchong cheapie.
The Graetz-bridge is already a good overkill at 15A but this is lekker (for anyone not understanding that word, it means 'good' down under here) as it can handle the current rush when charging the cap. Oh, cool the bridge, a little aluminium tag with heat-conductive paste inbetween will do fine... and weighs next to nothing, just do it.
Costly globes though, myyyy donnner boet....

Ja nee the specs on the capacitor and rectifier will be upped a bit.

It looks like I will be able to get my hands on a set of those lights for about half price. The only reason I am considering it.

And of course it means I don't have to build a new fairing yet as I should be able to make this unit fit my existing light. Also only using one of the lights of course, the second will have to rest on the shelf a bit for now. Now imagine if I build a lekker fairing at a later stage and get both those lights working. It will be like riding around with a sun hog tied to the fork.

My existing light (35w/35w dual filament) keeps on frying the lo beam filament for some reason hence me looking at led's. I am going to go through the whole existing headlight loom to try and see if it is an electrical problem or not. I have had people tell me it is due to vibration which I find hard to believe as I have seen simillar bulbs on heavy machinery survive much tougher conditions.

I am trying to avoid upgrading the stator for a while as that can be very pricey.

My TT Vapor, mounted on the top-triple in TT's own alu cradle - which has grommets for vibration dampening in it! - fried/broke in less than 10 minutes...... twice!!
In the same breath, TT replaced them without a quibble, surprised me I'll admit.
But, it should tell you how hard the vibs are, violently so - and no, I've relocated the cradle to the plactics so not on the triple anymore. You're risking same for same reason....
A single Solstice mounted aside the headlight will shine bright for long, just want to mention that here. And yeah, there's plenty of cheaper similar things on the market, but I haven't seen one with same quality yet.