New Stainless Spokes & Rubber
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New Stainless Spokes & Rubber
Finally pulled rear wheel and remove the virtually worn out tyre, ordering a set of stainless spokes tomorrow and will replace them 1 by 1, cannot see any problems doing this ?....please shout up if you have concerns.
As for new rubber up in the loft I found a rather nice but wide tyre lol....
Copared to old 1
Old 1 is 120 wide...
I have a nice IRC trail 1 which is 125...
But the loft 1 is hugh...
Should fit will report back once spokes are fitted etc.
As for new rubber up in the loft I found a rather nice but wide tyre lol....
Copared to old 1
Old 1 is 120 wide...
I have a nice IRC trail 1 which is 125...
But the loft 1 is hugh...
Should fit will report back once spokes are fitted etc.
Mauser- XRR Monger
- Joined : 2010-09-13
Posts : 1970
Location : UK
XR650R Year : 2002
Re: New Stainless Spokes & Rubber
Measure the rim offset before you start. That is put a straight edge across the disc face and measure the gap to the rim edge. Do the same on the other side Sprocket face to rim edge and write them down.It will need to be pretty close when you have rebuild it. When replacing spokes you need to loosen the ones either side to allow the old spoke out and the new one in. With this in mind I would take a good photo of the rim as it is showing how the spokes are laced. Try to have a ref point such as the valve hole or rim lock. I say this as I would probably lose patience and cut all the old ones out and rebuild from scratch.
Either way you will need to check the wheel is round and and concentric to the hub/wheel bearings.
I have rebuilt a few wheels now, to be honest it is one job I am happy to pay someone to do, its not hard at all just loses its novelty after the first one. A local wheel builder can supply the spokes, rim and anything else wheel related, all at very competitive prices and charges very little to do a top job. Good luck with this one, you may be asking for his number for the next one
Good Luck
Either way you will need to check the wheel is round and and concentric to the hub/wheel bearings.
I have rebuilt a few wheels now, to be honest it is one job I am happy to pay someone to do, its not hard at all just loses its novelty after the first one. A local wheel builder can supply the spokes, rim and anything else wheel related, all at very competitive prices and charges very little to do a top job. Good luck with this one, you may be asking for his number for the next one
Good Luck
Guest- Guest
Re: New Stainless Spokes & Rubber
Hey Moss post some pics of wheel lacing am thinking doing the same too my rear wheel!
would doing one spoke at a time take too long or cutting them all out and start from scratch be more time saving? I have never done this but I also thought taking an old spoke out replacing with new and so on it might be less of a chance of hub and rim placement and make truing easier
Moss looking forward too see shiny new spokes on the piggy plus wheel lacing is a good time too enjoy some
would doing one spoke at a time take too long or cutting them all out and start from scratch be more time saving? I have never done this but I also thought taking an old spoke out replacing with new and so on it might be less of a chance of hub and rim placement and make truing easier
Moss looking forward too see shiny new spokes on the piggy plus wheel lacing is a good time too enjoy some
Guest- Guest
Re: New Stainless Spokes & Rubber
Frankly, my dear Mauser.....
1 by 1 will not work, my endlessly precious block on a dock.
Mind, you'll get the pattern right probably, but the tension - which keeps the hub in the middle, aligned and keeps the rim at the correct tension, this all concurrent! - will be all over causing the rim to wobble.... and then, not having the knowledge to adjust this all may lead to tears.
I've done many wheels in my younger days, and I think one needs a little bit of a knack for it - plus the proper tools, coffee, the radio toddling along etc, it'll take some time.
If you'd be my neighboer/bierman (SA-joke ) then I'd pop over and do it for you.
Hew's right: measure the lateral position (= offset) of the hub, check also that this is actually correct or what you want, then loosen all spokes (Q20 the nipples first), then replace them all, then put the wheel in a stand (one can make this oneself if need be) and tighten all spokes little by little.... whilst, and this is the trick, keeping the rim true, correctly offset and without wobbles and lastly, tightened properly!
Now, that last bit is the trick, but doing little by little (do NEVER tighten one spoke a lot!) will get you further than 'yeehaa, I'm a Redneck, turn this spokey a lot' if you get what I mean.
Oh, a crucial remark here is, the assumption that all spokes must be at the exact same tension is a fallacy! Yes, they must be all tensioned but there will be a few which will be 'more', quite like there will be some that will be 'less' - this is a balancing act, and 'perfect' I don't think I've seen yet..... but you may try
No, not rocket science, just applied logic: if it goes one way pull it the other way, simple really.
Mind, these are simple wheels, BMW tubeless wheels with locking devices etc on the spokes are loads trickier, also because those rims are really stiff. On this, your rims obviously must be without dents/nicks, and only very slight wobbles may be corrected by tensioning the spokes.
Hey, if this sounds daunting then yeah, it can be I suppose... but, you can do the bulk of the work i.e replacing all spokes, then hand it to someone to tension it the correct way!
1 by 1 will not work, my endlessly precious block on a dock.
Mind, you'll get the pattern right probably, but the tension - which keeps the hub in the middle, aligned and keeps the rim at the correct tension, this all concurrent! - will be all over causing the rim to wobble.... and then, not having the knowledge to adjust this all may lead to tears.
I've done many wheels in my younger days, and I think one needs a little bit of a knack for it - plus the proper tools, coffee, the radio toddling along etc, it'll take some time.
If you'd be my neighboer/bierman (SA-joke ) then I'd pop over and do it for you.
Hew's right: measure the lateral position (= offset) of the hub, check also that this is actually correct or what you want, then loosen all spokes (Q20 the nipples first), then replace them all, then put the wheel in a stand (one can make this oneself if need be) and tighten all spokes little by little.... whilst, and this is the trick, keeping the rim true, correctly offset and without wobbles and lastly, tightened properly!
Now, that last bit is the trick, but doing little by little (do NEVER tighten one spoke a lot!) will get you further than 'yeehaa, I'm a Redneck, turn this spokey a lot' if you get what I mean.
Oh, a crucial remark here is, the assumption that all spokes must be at the exact same tension is a fallacy! Yes, they must be all tensioned but there will be a few which will be 'more', quite like there will be some that will be 'less' - this is a balancing act, and 'perfect' I don't think I've seen yet..... but you may try
No, not rocket science, just applied logic: if it goes one way pull it the other way, simple really.
Mind, these are simple wheels, BMW tubeless wheels with locking devices etc on the spokes are loads trickier, also because those rims are really stiff. On this, your rims obviously must be without dents/nicks, and only very slight wobbles may be corrected by tensioning the spokes.
Hey, if this sounds daunting then yeah, it can be I suppose... but, you can do the bulk of the work i.e replacing all spokes, then hand it to someone to tension it the correct way!
Guest- Guest
Re: New Stainless Spokes & Rubber
On this all, all should know that stainless steel spokes are less strong than the OEM-steel ones!
Oh sure, strong enough for normal use, but don't expect to see them anytime soon in competition bikes - and yes, they do looks the bollocks!
Oh sure, strong enough for normal use, but don't expect to see them anytime soon in competition bikes - and yes, they do looks the bollocks!
Guest- Guest
Re: New Stainless Spokes & Rubber
Checkimng those lofty tyres now.... a 140 will fit, but only if your offsets are spot on!
A few chaps have tried and some did report rubbing, which in some cases was remedied by moving the rim i.e readjusting the offset.
If I'd be you then I'd mount it now, check and take any decision from there?
A few chaps have tried and some did report rubbing, which in some cases was remedied by moving the rim i.e readjusting the offset.
If I'd be you then I'd mount it now, check and take any decision from there?
Guest- Guest
Re: New Stainless Spokes & Rubber
Hi guys, on 1 side I can simply undo the nipple and pop each spoke out and replace....dead easy don't ask me which it was either the sprocket or disc side.....
Now the other side you need to remove 2 to get the 1 out but again no trouble.....
No need to measure off-sets I have 3 sets of wheels so plenty to measure, but honestly don't think I will need any, my spokes are probably 8/10 and every nipple I have tried comes un-done easily.
I know stainless are not as strong but hey I ride tarmac in the sunshine @ 30mph only thing which might affect them is my choice of music I listen to....loool
Will take some pictures as soon as spokes arrive....2 weeks time I was quoted.
Now the other side you need to remove 2 to get the 1 out but again no trouble.....
No need to measure off-sets I have 3 sets of wheels so plenty to measure, but honestly don't think I will need any, my spokes are probably 8/10 and every nipple I have tried comes un-done easily.
I know stainless are not as strong but hey I ride tarmac in the sunshine @ 30mph only thing which might affect them is my choice of music I listen to....loool
Will take some pictures as soon as spokes arrive....2 weeks time I was quoted.
Mauser- XRR Monger
- Joined : 2010-09-13
Posts : 1970
Location : UK
XR650R Year : 2002
Re: New Stainless Spokes & Rubber
Sorry got side tracked so no assembly pictures, if your planning on doing this job with larger spokes like I did you will need to drill out your hub...snag is you need a right angled drill....I have 1 luckily and another snag as the threads are rolled not cut into the spoke they are larger than the spoke...you will need something close to a 4.5mm drill for the 4mm spokes.
Another thing I never knew was that no one over in the UK makes metric spokes !!!! they are all imperial...so you buy 8 gauge or 9 gauge spokes with 0.275" or 0.300" nipples....I was amazed.
I ended up going for larger spokes and drilling the hub rather than same size spokes and larger nipples otherwise there was a 3 month wait for the correct combination !!!
Anyway worked my way around and 1 hour later all done and few minutes to true the wheel up on the bike.
I am happy with the outcome, will check spokes after I start riding the bike in March....
Tyre half killed me took hour and half to fit....I think being an old tyre and cold tyre didnt help + didn't want to mark my rims !!!!
Ooops forgot finished picture....
Another thing I never knew was that no one over in the UK makes metric spokes !!!! they are all imperial...so you buy 8 gauge or 9 gauge spokes with 0.275" or 0.300" nipples....I was amazed.
I ended up going for larger spokes and drilling the hub rather than same size spokes and larger nipples otherwise there was a 3 month wait for the correct combination !!!
Anyway worked my way around and 1 hour later all done and few minutes to true the wheel up on the bike.
I am happy with the outcome, will check spokes after I start riding the bike in March....
Tyre half killed me took hour and half to fit....I think being an old tyre and cold tyre didnt help + didn't want to mark my rims !!!!
Ooops forgot finished picture....
Mauser- XRR Monger
- Joined : 2010-09-13
Posts : 1970
Location : UK
XR650R Year : 2002
Re: New Stainless Spokes & Rubber
Hew wrote:Very nice, just need to get them dirty now.
Grrr that won't happen lol....she is like me fussy about getting messy
Mauser- XRR Monger
- Joined : 2010-09-13
Posts : 1970
Location : UK
XR650R Year : 2002
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