Sight Tube

Hey Guys:

I want to add a sight tube to my '01, before I do something stupid that requires engine work.

Any recommendations on which one to purchase? It looks like the BD tube is the most common.

TIA

Dave

I seen a site somewhere, not sure where now that showed how to make the oil tube site with cheap parts from Home Depot

It would seem easy enough to make one, but the thought frightens me.

Something else to break in a tip over

modette wrote:Something else to break in a tip over

Beats the alternative ($$$$$$).

I put one together from parts using the Baja Designs .pdf instructions. I ran my tube vertical without the loop shown in the BD instructions, but they do include a template for hole locations.

Sight Tube

Cost me less than $10 for all the parts including tap from the local hardware store.

Seems to me it has no contact whatsoever in a tip over and sure makes it easy to monitor oil level.

Critter's Animalhousedesigns.net

The oil site tube is a must have for on the go oil level checks. No more fussing with the dipstick and losing time in the pits. Just look and go. The AHD oil site tube kit includes everything you need to install it, Parker brass fittings, clear tubing good to 500 degrees F, pipe tap, drill bit and instructions.

$54.99 plus shipping

Site Kit Instructions

AHD_OSi R0 10/1/05
Tools Required:
Drill
1/8-27 NPTF Supplied Tap
Supplied Q Drill Bit
3/8” Wrench
7/16” Wrench
Teflon Tape
Directions:
1. Remove tank, triple clamp, stabilizer post mount bracket and right radiator.
2. Drill upper hole in location as shown in picture 1 on page 2 with SUPPLIED drill bit. This hole needs to be higher then the “full” line on the dipstick. It is best to get it as close to the dip stick cap as possible without drilling into the dip stick threads.
3. Tap the hole drilled in step 2 with SUPPLIED pipe tap to a depth less then the thread length of the supplied fitting. The reason for tapping it less is that the tap and the fitting are tapered. If you tap it too deep the fitting will not seal properly.
4. Insert fitting and tighten down with 3/8” wrench. I recommend thread tape or pipe dope to ensure a leak free seal although the fittings are supposed to be leak proof without it.
5. Repeat the above steps for the lower fitting. Place the lower fitting as depicted in picture 2 on page 2.
6. With the supplied hose, slip on the nut and crush sleeve. Insert the hose onto the fitting making sure the hose bottoms out on the inside of the fitting. Slide the crush washer and nut up and fasten the nut with a 7/16” wrench to complete the fitting assembly. Tug on the assembly to check that the crush nut has seated. If the hose pulls out, the nut was not fastened tight enough.
7. Route hose so that it is not kinked and will not be rubbed by anything sharp. Cut hose to proper length and repeat step 6 for lower fitting. If the hose rubs on anything sharp failure will occur. See Picture 3 on page 3 for final routing recommendation.
8. Drain and flush oil system, clean oil screen and refill.
Notes:
In order to eliminate chips and burrs entering the oil system you must have a heavy amount of grease on the tap while drilling so that the chips embed in the grease up flutes rather then drop in your oil system. It is also recommended to flush the oil system and clean the oil screens after installing this kit.
Thread tape is recommended on the pipe threads.
ANIMAL HOUSE DESIGNS assumes no liability in regards to the install or use of this product. The use of this product may void factory Honda warranty. Incorrect installation can lead to catastrophic engine failure; seek a professional mechanic if your abilities are not up to the task.
AHD_OSi R0 10/1/05
Picture 1 showing upper fitting location
Picture 2 showing lower fitting location
AHD_OSi R0 10/1/05

Great stuff, folks - Thanks!

I think I'll go with a kit for my '01 and try a DIY on my '02.

Dave

dougc wrote:I put one together from parts using the Baja Designs .pdf instructions. I ran my tube vertical without the loop shown in the BD instructions, but they do include a template for hole locations.

Sight Tube

Cost me less than $10 for all the parts including tap from the local hardware store.

Seems to me it has no contact whatsoever in a tip over and sure makes it easy to monitor oil level.

Thats where I seen it

dougc wrote:I put one together from parts using the Baja Designs .pdf instructions. I ran my tube vertical without the loop shown in the BD instructions, but they do include a template for hole locations.

Sight Tube

Cost me less than $10 for all the parts including tap from the local hardware store.

Seems to me it has no contact whatsoever in a tip over and sure makes it easy to monitor oil level.

Sorry I was thinking of a oil sight glass like on street bikes....

I use the Animal house Designs oil sight tube and right foot peg mod. The guy does good work and makes it simple for you.

doug@dsa wrote:The guy does good work and makes it simple for you.

That's what I want to hear!

Some of the installs I've seen that appear to me to be low and farther back on the top tap have leaked. There was recently a thread about this on Yahoo. I was worried about doing this myself (my folks were aerospace people and I am kinda freaky about not drilling holes in anything if possible) so I took it to a pro mechanic / racer friend and had him do it. So far it's perfect.

I wouldn't get the kit parts from the local hardware store either. I'd go to Grainger. I have the full Grainger kit list if you want. I think it ends up being about half price. i bought my BD kit from a guy on eBay for the same money.

Dave P wrote:

doug@dsa wrote:The guy does good work and makes it simple for you.

That's what I want to hear!

Bump wrote:I wouldn't get the kit parts from the local hardware store either. I'd go to Grainger. I have the full Grainger kit list if you want. I think it ends up being about half price. i bought my BD kit from a guy on eBay for the same money.

Bump your a wealth of info. can you post up the list for us... Thanks...

Here's the list:
All part numbers from McMaster-Carr

Tubing: 52355K571
Tap: 2525A169
Drill: 30595A49
Fittings: 5182K821
Caps: 5182K624 (carry as a spare part in case the tubing fails on a ride)
Tube support, similar to this: 5053K91 but purchased locally to verify that it fit inside the tubing. This piece prevents the tubing from collapsing when you tighten the nut.

Captain Ron sent me this originally.

I think it best to find the Baja Designs install papers. There's another template floating around out there but IMHO it pushes the top hole too low and away from the meatier parts of the frame. I have the BD one somewhere...

I think it would be difficult to hurt this in a fall. It's tucked in pretty tight.

If you do all this and want a XRsOnly Temp/stick then search for Focker's DIY on getting the gauge properly oriented. The only change I'd make to Focker's excellent idea and work is to first determine where the oil temp should be on a ride. Then orient the temp guage so that expected temp is a 12oclock. That way all you need to do is look down and see if the needle is at 12, or what is expected, rather than actually reading the gauge which takes longer and more brain-something dangerous at BRP speeds.

Avistar40 wrote:

Bump wrote:I wouldn't get the kit parts from the local hardware store either. I'd go to Grainger. I have the full Grainger kit list if you want. I think it ends up being about half price. i bought my BD kit from a guy on eBay for the same money.

Bump your a wealth of info. can you post up the list for us... Thanks...

Bump wrote:I think it best to find the Baja Designs install papers. There's another template floating around out there but IMHO it pushes the top hole too low and away from the meatier parts of the frame. I have the BD one somewhere...

I included a link to the BD install in my post above (Sight Tube)

dougc

Bump wrote:Here's the list:
All part numbers from McMaster-Carr

Tubing: 52355K571
Tap: 2525A169
Drill: 30595A49
Fittings: 5182K821
Caps: 5182K624 (carry as a spare part in case the tubing fails on a ride)
Tube support, similar to this: 5053K91 but purchased locally to verify that it fit inside the tubing. This piece prevents the tubing from
collapsing when you tighten the nut.

Captain Ron sent me this originally.

I think it best to find the Baja Designs install papers. There's another template floating around out there but IMHO it pushes the top hole too low and away from the meatier parts of the frame. I have the BD one somewhere...

I think it would be difficult to hurt this in a fall. It's tucked in pretty tight.

If you do all this and want a XRsOnly Temp/stick then search for Focker's DIY on getting the gauge properly oriented. The only change I'd make to Focker's excellent idea and work is to first determine where the oil temp should be on a ride. Then orient the temp guage so that expected temp is a 12oclock. That way all you need to do is look down and see if the needle is at 12, or what is expected, rather than actually reading the gauge which takes longer and more brain-something dangerous at BRP speeds.

thanks much Bump..

I shoulda looked closer and seen you were way ahead of me!

dougc wrote:

Bump wrote:I think it best to find the Baja Designs install papers. There's another template floating around out there but IMHO it pushes the top hole too low and away from the meatier parts of the frame. I have the BD one somewhere...

I included a link to the BD install in my post above (Sight Tube)

dougc

What's the "08/L" mean in your avatar thingy?

Avistar40 wrote:

Bump wrote:Here's the list:
All part numbers from McMaster-Carr

Tubing: 52355K571
Tap: 2525A169
Drill: 30595A49
Fittings: 5182K821
Caps: 5182K624 (carry as a spare part in case the tubing fails on a ride)
Tube support, similar to this: 5053K91 but purchased locally to verify that it fit inside the tubing. This piece prevents the tubing from
collapsing when you tighten the nut.

Captain Ron sent me this originally.

I think it best to find the Baja Designs install papers. There's another template floating around out there but IMHO it pushes the top hole too low and away from the meatier parts of the frame. I have the BD one somewhere...

I think it would be difficult to hurt this in a fall. It's tucked in pretty tight.

If you do all this and want a XRsOnly Temp/stick then search for Focker's DIY on getting the gauge properly oriented. The only change I'd make to Focker's excellent idea and work is to first determine where the oil temp should be on a ride. Then orient the temp guage so that expected temp is a 12oclock. That way all you need to do is look down and see if the needle is at 12, or what is expected, rather than actually reading the gauge which takes longer and more brain-something dangerous at BRP speeds.

thanks much Bump..

good question... currently have an XR650L/CR250R... getting my XR650R end of Nov.begging of Dec... not sure how I botched my info..Another late night of reading and learning, hurrying to join so I could post.. Usually on TT or ADV.. sure have appreciated your post... When I start modding, want to do it right the first time... Still looking for a good replacement for that Rad. cap....

Search on here because I posted the cap that fits. I think it is from a Suzuki Swift but not certain. It's available world wide. That said, I highly recommend Evans NPG-R for your BRP. if you run Evans the cap doesn't matter because Evans doesn't boil and so the cooling system builds no pressure. With Evans you can skip everything else; no fluidynes, no fans, no hi-pressure cap, silicon hoses, and so forth. The Stainless thermostat from XRsonly is a good idea though.

Avistar40 wrote:good question... currently have an XR650L/CR250R... getting my XR650R end of Nov.begging of Dec... not sure how I botched my info..Another late night of reading and learning, hurrying to join so I could post.. Usually on TT or ADV.. sure have appreciated your post... When I start modding, want to do it right the first time... Still looking for a good replacement for that Rad. cap....

not trying to steal the thread here... I saw how much you like the Evans.. have seen others against it.. (for heat transfer reasons as compared to water ???) but, seems like a good idea to me.. also saw the S. Swift/KX500/KX80 and one for the Nappa brand w/ part #.. for the cap.. would like to stay in the lower range (which the above aren't I don't think) for the pressure.Copied that on the XRs Stainless..need the hole drilled or good to go? You seem to be in the know Bump so if you say Evans is the way to go... Im with ya... picking up my bike tomorrow ... hot damn.. been a long patient wait to put my butt back on an R... now I just need a good kick ass light up front that is also S/Legal.. thanks for all your time Bump..

I'd never heard of it till I joined the Yahoo Group. More than a bit skeptical I called the Evans company and spoke at length with the engineers there. And Gene Lane schooled me on the Yahoo group. Gene is no nonsense and if he's says to do it then it's as safe as it gets. Essentially it doesn't boil or cavitate so there's no air next to cylinder walls in the engines cooling system.

There's a whole procedure for installing it. It's on here somewhere too.

I hope that helps. Calling Evans really schooled me. And I cruised the web site to see what else they do. Pretty impressive to me but I'm not an engineer...

Avistar40 wrote:not trying to steal the thread here... I saw how much you like the Evans.. have seen others against it.. (for heat transfer reasons as compared to water ???) but, seems like a good idea to me.. also saw the S. Swift/KX500/KX80 and one for the Nappa brand w/ part #.. for the cap.. would like to stay in the lower range (which the above aren't I don't think) for the pressure.Copied that on the XRs Stainless..need the hole drilled or good to go? You seem to be in the know Bump so if you say Evans is the way to go... Im with ya... picking up my bike tomorrow ... hot damn.. been a long patient wait to put my butt back on an R... now I just need a good kick ass light up front that is also S/Legal.. thanks for all your time Bump..

pulled in about 6 am with my new scoot. 00 XR650R.. Looks/runs like it just came out of the crate... very nice... very happy.. Gonna hit all the bearings while its clean.. then start the process of D/Sing.. defiantly going to run Evans.. you leave your thermostat in?

I do not leave the OEM one in. I use the SS one from XRsonly. I don't drill it or anything. Some will argue for not using a thermostat but I'd argue it's necessary. You need something to hold the coolant in there long enough to absorb the energy off the cylinder walls. Heat is horsepower but also there's all that expansion of metals engineered into it that requires a certain temp range for longevity.