Horrible engine noise

Hey guys so last year I bought this well running xr650r. It rode excellent for a while and I was commuting to school on it. I cant remember if i adjusted valves because it was making noise or it started making noise after I adjusted valves because its been sitting for several months, but regardless this is a video of it running and how it sounds. I know, its awful but I think the video makes it sound a little worse than it actually is. Recently I rechecked the valves 2 more times by the book procedure to make sure Its not valves. Im not sure how to go about diagnosing and was hoping you guys could help. Thank you

Slow the tick over right down so we can hear better, could be exhaust leak at manifold or since you have been in there wrongly adjusted valves, did you double check the position before setting as you can be 1 turn out.

Im sorry I dont exactly understand what you mean by "slow the tick over right down". Also the 3rd time I checked the valve clearance I watched for the intake valves to move when I was rotating flywheel so that I knew for sure I was at TDC on compression stroke. Thanks

Your bike is running fast....listen to mine....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUgWKPRlJBQ

thump thump thump noise not like yours...slow the rpm down maybe your bike is still on choke ?

Yes that was on half choke i believe. I started the bike just to take that video and then shut it down. I can get another video of it running slower tomorrow. Also, I don't think it is an exhaust leak as I think I would have noticed that but I will double check for sure. Thanks

Sounds like an exhaust leak...that's my vote.

dougc

I sure do hope its an exhaust leak. If it is, I deserve a good facepalm.

Its been to windy here today so im not going to try to get a video. Hopefully tomorrow its more calm.

Finally was able to take the bike out to get another video. I looked for an exhaust leak while it was running for this video but didnt feel air or see anything obvious. Anyway here is another video of it running slower. Hopefully this helps. Thank you to all.

Sounds like valves to me ?....you can set them in the wrong place if you didn't know ?.

I adjusted them several times following factory service manual carefully. I suppose I could have set them wrong but I did adjust a few times to double check.

Mauser wrote:Sounds like valves to me ?....you can set them in the wrong place if you didn't know ?.

I might have to agree this time. I hear a metal on metal clank at the slower speed and it no longer sounds so much like an exhaust leak.

IMO, etc.

In that case what would be the procedure for troubleshooting this issue? Thanks

Christianw1 wrote:In that case what would be the procedure for troubleshooting this issue? Thanks

Another possibility is a sloppy rod knocking.

One trick is to use a screwdriver as a listening post. By touching the shaft on engine cases, etc., around various areas of the engine and listening to the handle you may be able to locate the source of the sound whether it is valves or something deeper. Perhaps a harbor freight stethoscope is the answer to locating the noise?

Hope that helps.

Does the noise go away when you pull the clutch in?

Piston Slap?

What is the compression? Close to 160 psi?

How tight is the timing chain? Is the auto tensioner working?

When was the last time you changed the oil?

Did you ever pull all of the screens in the oiling system and check for debris?

When you take the right side crank case cover off, you should have access to the rod check for play or lock the brakes, gradually let the clutch out ... a loose rod big end will get notieably louder, and easier to pinpoint as a load is applied to the engine.

Is the oil pump caveating? Did you put the oil filter in the proper way?

So today I had some time to pull the bike out.
1. The noise does not go away with clutch pulled in

2. How can I tell if its piston slap?

3. I just did a compression test. Pulled plug, insert tester, choke open, throttle open, kicked it over several times without touching decompressor, cant get it past 90psi. I proceeded to adjust the decompressor as it had over 1" of play at tdc at what I believe was compression stroke. Started it up, noise sounds slightly quieter but still very loud. I pulled plug compression test again and it still doesnt go past ~90. Compression test with decompressor lever pulled will not show any reading on guage. Factory service manual says it should be around 87 with decompressor lever pulled.

4.How do I check if the auto tensioner is working? I cannot find anything in factory service manual about testing.

5. I have not had bike very long. Did an oil change when I got it. I do not remember if I cleaned all oil screens.

6. I am going to pull right side case cover off to check for play right now.

7. I am pretty sure I put oil filter in correctly.

Thanks for the help and support.

Also I just noticed as I was turning it over from the 17mm bolt on the side of the engine I head a strong click after every rotation or two. Could this sound be the one im hearing when its running?

EDIT: this click comes from the right side exhaust valve on every 2nd rotation.

Christianw1 wrote:Also I just noticed as I was turning it over from the 17mm bolt on the side of the engine I head a strong click after every rotation or two. Could this sound be the one im hearing when its running?

EDIT: this click comes from the right side exhaust valve on every 2nd rotation.

Is that not the auto de-compressor kicking in ?, do a search....someone posted recently about de-activating the auto de-compressor to perform a compression test ?.

Christianw1 wrote:Also I just noticed as I was turning it over from the 17mm bolt on the side of the engine I head a strong click after every rotation or two. Could this sound be the one im hearing when its running?

EDIT: this click comes from the right side exhaust valve on every 2nd rotation.

That is the auto decompression on the right side of the cam. Is actuated the right exhaust valve.

Christianw1 wrote:So today I had some time to pull the bike out.
1. The noise does not go away with clutch pulled in

2. How can I tell if its piston slap?

3. I just did a compression test. Pulled plug, insert tester, choke open, throttle open, kicked it over several times without touching decompressor, cant get it past 90psi. I proceeded to adjust the decompressor as it had over 1" of play at tdc at what I believe was compression stroke. Started it up, noise sounds slightly quieter but still very loud. I pulled plug compression test again and it still doesnt go past ~90. Compression test with decompressor lever pulled will not show any reading on guage. Factory service manual says it should be around 87 with decompressor lever pulled.

4.How do I check if the auto tensioner is working? I cannot find anything in factory service manual about testing.

5. I have not had bike very long. Did an oil change when I got it. I do not remember if I cleaned all oil screens.

6. I am going to pull right side case cover off to check for play right now.

7. I am pretty sure I put oil filter in correctly.

Thanks for the help and support.

We need compression comfirmation.

Pull the tank.
Pull sparkplug.
Disconnect the manual decompression. Make sure it is closed! Is the return spring fully closing the manual decompression?
Pull the stator cover.
Pull the valve covers. Inspect the cam, rocker arm valves spring and guides for wear or damage.
Visual watch the cam lobes, rocker arms and valves to confirm TDC. You will need a socket and wrench to turn the fly wheel bolt by hand to achieve TDC. Try not to let the motor turn backwards!!!
Now once you have TDC on the compression stroke, where is the timing mark on your flywheel?
Now set your valve lash.

A compression leak down test would be nice. If no leak down test:

Attach compression gauge.
Confirm choke is off
Confirm when you fully open the throttle that it truly is fully open.
Remove the air filter side cover and remove the air filter.
Fully open the throttle and kick it for at least 40 cycles (40 cycles divided by 4 strokes is 10 firing cycles).

Now what did you get for compression?
If good
If bad:
Now remove the compression tester.
Squirt oil into the cylinder.
Attach compression gauge.
Confirm choke is off
Fully open the throttle and kick it for at least 40 cycles (40 cycles divided by 4 strokes is 10 firing cycles).

Now what do you get for compression?

What is with the discoloration on the right side of the engine below the cylinder?
Oil?

Compression test after following your procedure, still no higher than 90psi both wet and dry. Ive read that the auto decompressor is what prevents compression test from reading a proper 160psi.
As for the discoloration, I believe you are talking about the fact that the bottom cylinder piece is darker than the top. It is like that all the way around, I believe the surfaces are just different colors.

Is it time to pull cylinder off to check rod bearing? =/

Christianw1 wrote:Compression test after following your procedure, still no higher than 90psi both wet and dry. Ive read that the auto decompressor is what prevents compression test from reading a proper 160psi.
As for the discoloration, I believe you are talking about the fact that the bottom cylinder piece is darker than the top. It is like that all the way around, I believe the surfaces are just different colors.

Is it time to pull cylinder off to check rod bearing? =/

Now once you have TDC on the compression stroke, where is the timing mark on your flywheel?

So I ended up jumping the gun after I submitted my last post and pulled off the cylinder. Here is a picture of the wrist pin. Does this look faulty?

Time for a 680 kit.
Lukesracing.com
Cam chain
Probably cam and rocker arms
Valve job

Any up and down or diagonal play(side to side play is ok) on the big end of the rod?

Any wear on the face of the rocker arms?

The big end of the rod is solid. Just side to side but it is in spec. I assume im going to have to replace the rod as well correct?