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Horrible engine noise

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Post  Guest Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:53 pm

The big end of the rod is solid. Just side to side but it is in spec. I assume im going to have to replace the rod as well correct?

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Post  Guest Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:04 pm

What does it look like?
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Post  Guest Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:07 pm

What do the faces/pads of the rocker arms look like?
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Post  Guest Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:09 pm

Horrible engine noise - Page 2 20130428_140657_zps4bee823e
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Post  Guest Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:15 pm

Time to rebuild the entire motor. Lack of oil damage or someone reving the piss out of the motor when it was cold.

Rod

http://www.faliconcranks.com/1pc.html


Last edited by AURORA on Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:25 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Guest Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:16 pm

Horrible engine noise - Page 2 20130428_141307_zpsbcdcf950
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Post  Guest Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:24 pm

Full rebuild

One of the pads is not acceptable.
New cam,rocker arms, cam chain, blah blah blah.

Sorry about the bad news
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Post  Guest Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:27 pm

Looks like this is going to be very expensive and not going to be riding the bike this summer. :'[. Besides the falicon rod what else do you recommend for upgrade. If I do a 680 big bore can I just have my stock cylinder bored and just buy the 11:1 big bore piston/pin? It seems like it would be much cheaper that way. Also I hope my crank is still good but I guess I wont know until I remove it.
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Post  Guest Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:39 pm

Christianw1 wrote:Looks like this is going to be very expensive and not going to be riding the bike this summer. :'[. Besides the falicon rod what else do you recommend for upgrade. If I do a 680 big bore can I just have my stock cylinder bored and just buy the 11:1 big bore piston/pin? It seems like it would be much cheaper that way. Also I hope my crank is still good but I guess I wont know until I remove it.

No.
Standard dimension is 100.000 to 100.015mm
The service limit on the Honda cylinder is 100.05 mm
The 680 is like 102.400mm

Upgrades beyond replacing what is normaly worn out and needing replacement.
Stainless steel valves
Cam
Connecting rod
Do not do any port and polishing work!



Last edited by AURORA on Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:46 pm; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : Spelling)
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Post  Guest Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:51 pm

Some people upgrade the cam chain. With the upgraded chain you might get an extra year out of the chain.
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Post  Guest Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:23 pm

You can't just bore the chrome cylinder.
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Post  Guest Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:33 pm

So at this point im hoping I can reuse the cylinder and piston.
I am definitely going to go with a falicon rod.
I am going to get
new rockers
New cam chain
Im going to look at the condition of the cam if not reusable, what do you recommend.. Hotcam stage 1,2? other?

If piston is no good ill probably go with the 11:1 stock bore.. unless cylinder is also no good then im forced to the 680 big bore and ill get the 11:1 piston.

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Post  Guest Sat May 04, 2013 2:48 pm

Spelling correction.

Lukesracing.com
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Post  Guest Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:02 am

I am going to start buying parts very soon. Can you guys help me modify this list of what to buy if im missing anything?

new rod pressed on crank
Engine Gasket kit
11:1 piston kit stock bore
Stage 1 hotcam
rocker arms
cam chain... oem?
Guides and tensioner?
head bolts
new oil lines or just clean and reuse?
any other parts to go with the rockers and cam such as shaft or anything?
which numbers on this diagram

Thank you. Any help is much appreciated
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Post  Guest Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:16 am

Valves and valve seats ground, pumper carb and maybe a XR400 CDI.
What does the clutch assembly look like?
Bearing?

Oem cam chain is fine...you might get an extra year out of the Heavy Duty chain.

Valve Guides usually don't wear out. Tensioner...same with the guides and other components, you would have to inspect and determined if they need to be replaced.

What silencer/muffler are you running? Looks like factory exhaust header. With the stage one cam the factory exhaust system with the tip opened up will be just fine.

I'm tired, this is all I can think of right now.


Last edited by AURORA on Sat Jun 29, 2013 2:50 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Guest Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:42 am

I should have mentioned.. I just want to get what needs to be replaced so I can get back on it. Money is tight so carb and cdi will have to wait. Im trying to compile list so I can order everything and start wrenching. The heavy duty chain you mentioned.. Is there an oem heavy duty or is it aftermarket. If aftermarket which brand would you recommend? Also yes I have stock exhaust with tip opened up I believe. Are valves required to replace? Hoping to get away without. Thanks
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Post  Guest Sat Jun 29, 2013 11:25 am

Yes, if smallend is fooked then the big one ain't far off normally.
Overhaul the entire engine, it'll be open anyway. Yip, quite a bit of money but you'll have 'new' again. I'd stay away from any hop-up kit but that's just me.
Have cylinder & piston measured?
Also, I'd renew all bearings & seals, you got it open anyway.
Clutch, bushing, basket, the rubber cushions in it still fine?
And, the splines on the output shaft, OK still?



Off topic Aurora, did you manage to find an Edelbrock?
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Post  Guest Sat Jun 29, 2013 2:26 pm

BuRP wrote:

Off topic Aurora, did you manage to find an Edelbrock?

No. Still looking.

Thx for asking.
----------
Stock valve springs are good enough.

Check or replace clutch bushing. Especially on the year 2000 models.
Maybe remove the Judder spring and add a etra steel plate and fiber plate.
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Post  Guest Fri Jul 12, 2013 3:51 pm

So I just sent out my crank to get a new pro x rod. I purchased an 11:1 piston, hotcam stage 1, pretty sure the exhaust tip is swapped, stock carb header and muffler can, drilled airbox and uni filter. I have been doing some reading on jetting and carbs but I'm new to this and don't know how to go about jetting it properly
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Post  Guest Sun Jul 14, 2013 5:08 pm

Look at the Fuel to air mix section
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