650R Suspension setup for 250+

Hello,
I weigh 250-260 in street clothes. I have upgraded fork springs and shock spring to .47 kg, but have not messed with valving or shims. Any ideas? I ride mostly trails in Colorado and desert type ridding, with the occasional hare scrable. I would like to clear at least a forty foot table top with out bottominmg out hard. Thanks for your time.

paddy2257 wrote:Hello,
I weigh 250-260 in street clothes. I have upgraded fork springs and shock spring to .47 kg, but have not messed with valving or shims. Any ideas? I ride mostly trails in Colorado and desert type ridding, with the occasional hare scrable. I would like to clear at least a forty foot table top with out bottominmg out hard. Thanks for your time.

Go www.racetech.com and make your way to dirt bike set up. You can enter all info, Weight, type of riding, skill level and then it will make recommendations on spring rate and oil level/viscosity. If you want it to really perform well then you need to revalve and that recommendation will be ther as well.

I am 190lb without gear and have a 10.0 rear and .46's in the front. Set up for expert desert on the "plush" side.

BB

Paddy from memory you'll need .48 or .49 front as i'm only 235 and i bottom out with it revalved for fast XC with .47.
Rear you'll need an 11 or 11.5 depending on how you ride.

baja brother wrote:

paddy2257 wrote:Hello,
I weigh 250-260 in street clothes. I have upgraded fork springs and shock spring to .47 kg, but have not messed with valving or shims. Any ideas? I ride mostly trails in Colorado and desert type ridding, with the occasional hare scrable. I would like to clear at least a forty foot table top with out bottominmg out hard. Thanks for your time.

Go www.racetech.com and make your way to dirt bike set up. You can enter all info, Weight, type of riding, skill level and then it will make recommendations on spring rate and oil level/viscosity. If you want it to really perform well then you need to revalve and that recommendation will be ther as well.

I am 190lb without gear and have a 10.0 rear and .46's in the front. Set up for expert desert on the "plush" side.

BB

I did the ground work for you. As per Race Tech you need 11.0 in the rear and .47's in the front. Check it out!!

I weigh very slightly less, but run the Sahara tank, 49 front/11.5 rear done by NOST & is as close to perfect as I think it can be for 550+ lbs combined weight

I am about your same weight. I run .49 and a 12.0 and probably need a 12.5 when i get going through the whoops the back tends to bottom a little more than I like. My suspension has had the works treatment by precision concepts.

Isn't Boydnar on here a sort of suspension guru?

HERE YOU GO:

THIS IS BRUCE'S INFORMATION. HE GOES BY XR680R

I followed his instructions for my forks and shock. My bike handles like a dream. It is easier to complete the changes than the instructions make the job out to be. The hardest part was making one required tool for the fork.

http://borynack.com/XR650R/xr650r_forks.htm

http://borynack.com/XR650R/xr650r_shock.htm

AURORA wrote:HERE YOU GO:

THIS IS BRUCE'S INFORMATION. HE GOES BY XR680R

I followed his instructions for my forks and shock. My bike handles like a dream. It is easier to complete the changes than the instructions make the job out to be. The hardest part was making one required tool for the fork.

http://borynack.com/XR650R/xr650r_forks.htm

http://borynack.com/XR650R/xr650r_shock.htm

I cannot stress enough the difference these fork instructions have made to my PIG.

I can now ride along tight trails with 2 strokes and keep the pace, then have the advantage of that lovely smooth power on tarmac.
All I need now is to find the secret of kickstarting it when I'm stuck on a slope with an obstacle stopping a full swing of the leaver

Palo Verde for the shims.

Anyone tried Race Tech's Gold Valve with Borynack's shim setup?

You can drill out, if I remember correctly, the the compression valve and your good to go.

AURORA wrote:You can driil out, if I remember correctly, the the rebound valve and your good to go.

Meaning drill out the stock valve and it performs at the same level?

RallyMoto wrote:

AURORA wrote:You can driil out, if I remember correctly, the compression valve and your good to go.

Meaning drill out the stock valve and it performs at the same level?

Just to show the difference in hole size. Drill out all four holes. Do not drill out the holes on the rebound valve.

If a "plusher" ride is what you are looking for, now you have to drill the valve to mimic a "Gold Valve". To the left is the valve with the top two holes bored to; 3.64mm /.0143 of an inch. Stock the holes are 1.96mm / .0775 of an inch. That is a huge difference!

Using a 9/64th of an inch (3.57mm) or a #27 wire gauge bit (3.64mm) you can drill the holes out.

Obviously this picture is just for comparison, you want to drill all four holes. Do Not drill out the rebound valve on the long saft.

Doing this mod will require that you run a stiffer valve stack. Stock holes are 2.65mm on 2000~2004 models but, I just did a 2005 that had 1.96mm holes. The picture is of a 2003 compression valve with the top two holes drilled out and the bottom two left stock

Thanks Aurora, I'm definitely looking for "Plusher".

Guess I'll order some shims and do the forks next time I have a long weekend I don't want to ride.

I found that expensive Titanium rear spring, from Eibach I think, made the ride more cush. I got mine through PC.

I've only seen one on eBay and it was pretty beaten.

RallyMoto wrote:Thanks Aurora, I'm definitely looking for "Plusher".
Guess I'll order some shims and do the forks next time I have a long weekend I don't want to ride.

Fluid selection is key.

Just finished reading boryknack does not recommend racetech's setting, XR's Only the go he said

I ordered the shims and was ready to do the work, when I found a guy on Craigslist that had just bought a used bike with a Precision Concepts setup bike for 200lbs+. The guy weighed 145lbs and said it was too stiff for him. Traded me for my stock setup, I paid shipping.

What a difference!

RallyMoto wrote:I ordered the shims and was ready to do the work, when I found a guy on Craigslist that had just bought a used bike with a Precision Concepts setup bike for 200lbs+. The guy weighed 145lbs and said it was too stiff for him. Traded me for my stock setup, I paid shipping.

What a difference!

Sweet.

RallyMoto wrote:I ordered the shims and was ready to do the work, when I found a guy on Craigslist that had just bought a used bike with a Precision Concepts setup bike for 200lbs+. The guy weighed 145lbs and said it was too stiff for him. Traded me for my stock setup, I paid shipping.

What a difference!

That is just so lucky. Well done

Did you see my ? about like El Torito?

I have a couple of free dinner cards for the El Torito in Monterey and I've no idea when we will be back there. So I thought I'd offer them to you.

We were there a year or two ago and the manager, a jerk, called our waiter in to his office to yell at him for 30 minutes while we sat there and waiting wondering WTF? The waiter comes back visibly shaken and in a daze. So I walked him back through our order and tried to calm the kid down some. Then I ate and asked for the manager. Since I worked in restaurants for years I knew the score. So I read this guy this jagoff the riot act and didn't hold anything back. I started off by asking him what was so important that he needed to ruin our dinner, make our two year old wait an extra 30 minutes to eat, and tarnish what otherwise would have surely been a wonderful birthday party for our daughter's 2nd birthday since we had driven down from Sonoma to stay the weekend and visit the Aquarium? So he gave us two free dinner passes and promised to apologize to the waiter for preventing him from properly taking care of customers. And the hosteses winked at us on our way out.

Not sure what the kid did but knowing restaurants I'd guess he slept with a hostess the manager had his eye on.

Tattooart wrote: I run .49 and a 12.0 and probably need a 12.5 when i get going through the whoops the back tends to bottom a little more than I like. My suspension has had the works treatment by precision concepts.

What's the rear number ( 12.0 and probably need a 12.5) all about please that some of you are quoting in here ? Is it how many turns from the bottom on the rear spring ?

Kiwi650 wrote:

Tattooart wrote: I run .49 and a 12.0 and probably need a 12.5 when i get going through the whoops the back tends to bottom a little more than I like. My suspension has had the works treatment by precision concepts.

What's the rear number ( 12.0 and probably need a 12.5) all about please that some of you are quoting in here ? Is it how many turns from the bottom on the rear spring ?

The number say .49 is the fork spring rate. 12.0 would be the shock spring rate.

The sag would be the adjustment, compression or the rear spring for the desired sag (height of the subframe) when freely sitting on the bike in ride configuration. The adjustment collar and locking collar are on top of the spring/shock assembly. Thus the bike height balanced straight up and down (use a reference point on the subframe) vs the amount it will sag when seated on the balanced bike. You are looking for a sag of 3 3/4 to 4 inches. Double check these numbers with Borynack's web site. Don't forget to adjust the height of the front forks. All of this is very easy to do. Just find someone to balance the bike while you are seated on it. A second person to measure the drop/sag when you are on the bike with half fuel and wearing all of your gear. The other adjustments you do with a slotted screw driver which adjusts the internal valves controlling the flow of fluid.




http://borynack.com/XR650R/xr650r_forks.htm

http://borynack.com/XR650R/xr650r_shock.htm

Cheers man, I checked the sag rate with no gear on, 633mm and 495mm with me on the bike, didn't make myself to clear in suspension guru topic sorry. The bike is bottoming out on terrain by the bike simply sitting to low from the previous vertically challenged owner, not bottoming out after I pull a superman (big air).

Thought I'd raise the bikes height then attack the sag rate, does the sag rate change from raising the height ? (I suspect so) cheers for the links, I read his article few weeks ago but can't recall much about rasing the rear, think get it now while typing - the desired sag rate of 3 3/4 to 4 inches determines the height of the rear ?

Cheerz