New to me 01, 13 / 45 sprockets?

Just got a new to me 01. The previous owner threw in several new front sprockets 13, 14, 15 tooth.
But I have not seen any rear ones yet in the box's & came with a 45 installed. I am mainly going to ride it on the street / around town. No freeway, hitting about 60 mph on a regular basis. My question is, the bike has 13 / 45 installed. I have not seen anyone running this combo. On the calculator its pretty close to the stock. only +1 TQ -1% Speed. Just wanted to ask about this odd combo.
Thanks!

I run 13~53 and love it....chug away in 5th from stationary.....
Welcome to the forums by the way....

13 front sprockett wears the sliders fast so keep an eye on it otherwise the chain will eat the swingarm , also the chain wear faster , that is why i run 15 in the front .

Why would the chain wear faster fruity ?.....mines not worn after 6 years maybe your bike lacks power wheelies like mine ?

Mauser my dear ol' fruit,

the Madman is right!
Mind, this is the second time you query this, remember?
The first time you asked me after I stated (herewith a repeat!) that a chain & sprocket set lasts longest when odd numbers are chosen for either sprocket - to which I'll now add that the bigger the sprockets the longer the chain will last!
You see, the trick regarding the latter (Maddy's!) is bending.... and no worries, no daygo's around here
A small sprocket will force the chain to bend more, over a smaller radius - and do this quicker too! - than on a large sprocket, and this creates a higher dynamic load on both parts as well as more sliding of the shackles. But also, a smaller sprocket will make more revolutions than a big one, hence it will wear quicker in time.... and when a sprocket wears the chain does exactly ditto!

Mauser wrote:.....maybe your bike lacks power wheelies like mine ?

(chanting tone:)
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A small counter sprocket won't turn any slower or faster than a larger 1, output shaft speed is dictated by the gearbox, if your output shaft is turning at 1000rpm the size/number of teeth won't matter...I agree your rear sprocket will turn at a different speed depending on size....I also agree on smaller sprockets make the chain bend more but my rear is larger so my front wears more than yours but my rear last longer....hows that sounds

How that sounds?
We both do 1000 kilometers.
We both have the same 49T rear.
I ride with a 15T front and you with a 13T.
1000km / circumference rear wheel is fixed - so the small 'un must turn more often than the larger one.
..
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Dawning yet?
It's true Maus', same like my statement that even teethed sprockets wear quicker than odd one's.

Mauser wrote:A small counter sprocket won't turn any slower or faster than a larger 1

Wrong, it all depends on the gearing and speed. One of the reasons we like motorized transport is the fact that we are able to modulate the speed ie the engine's revs, as without this it would be a clumsy way of doing things!

Mauser wrote:output shaft speed is dictated by the gearbox....

Not quite correct, more correct is gearing & chosen gear & speed.
On my 600 trackbike I've dropped the gearing some 15% (is a LOT) so as to keep up with the 1000's when accelerating, however it follows that the CS spins a helluvalot more than when I would have kept the std gearing. It also means that I change gears more often....

What I mean is if your engine is running at 1000 RPM in 5th gear, your output shaft will be turning at "x" RPM and "x" is fixed changing sprocket size won't effect it's rotational speed.....now if your talking about actual "road speed" then of course to maintain a certain speed in 5th your rev's will need to be increased if you reduce yours gearing....

I find that 15/47 works good for street sumo riding
14/47 for dual sport and some trail riding
13/47 for tight trail riding

All three combinations work with the stock chain length of 110

I've just experimented with this combo. I normally have 15/45 for long distance trips, but thought I'd see what difference the 13T would make. The first thing I noticed was that this put the wheel back so far that the axle was a few mm beyond the wheel alignment reference markers. (I've got a 110 link chain) I then noticed that when the wheel is this far back the space between the swing arm is obviously slightly bigger giving a gap of a few mm between the swing arm and the wheel spacers and allowing the wheel to move from side to side a few mm. Beware!
I guess if you really wanted to run this combo you'd need to take a link out to draw the wheel back in. (Can you take an odd link out, or do you need to take out an even number??)

I'm now on 14~54....or maybe 14~53 I have forgotten anyway my chain is perfectly adjusted in the middle of the blocks...you will have to take a 2 links out to get back to your next joint....bit confusing as you need to remove the link which you have broken the chain by and them the next full link to get you on the right link to join