Left Case Broken

Mauser wrote:OK cases arrived today and right side has some internal damage....I need your wise opinion I don't think this bit does anything other than deflect oil....?
Shame really as apart from this the cases are really good condition.....

That can be built up with TIG welding no problem

But what is it ?.....can soon clean it up, not fused if it's non functional the book doesn't show anything going on or over it ?

Finally found a downer
bike. Will be picking it up Thursday. Got to drive 2.5 hours out to get it. It got burned up from a backfire. I hope the frame and motor is usable and or restore-able.

Got my new to me 2001 XR650R to my house Thursday and Titled it today.  Good thing he had a title, many people do not title their dirt bikes after purchasing in USA.  Not sure about the long term plans for this Dark Disaster.  I just know for now i need that left case off of it.  

I think I might restore the follwing: Frame, Wheels, Engine, exhaust and header ( after market - not sure what it is yet ), swing arm, radiators, Brake Calipers. Mostly clean it up to get the appearance back out of each item.

Items that I know are ruined: Forks, hand controls, Rear suspension, anything plastic related, Rear tire, anything electrical, handle bars.  

I was told by the owner that the engine was not running at time of being burned up, so there is hope that it is not bad ( it does have compression but not the best ).  I would have to disassemble the motor and reassemble it anyway to make sure there is nothing else wrong.   Thinking I will have to look closer to see if I can get my Left Case welded to restore it for this engine.

I would be looking at a large list of replacement parts if I would get this one back in the dirt again.   It might happen but it would take a while.  First need to get that engine working on this Dark Disaster after my good XR gets fixed.

Does anyone know of a great place to get used parts besides EBAY?

Not your side of the pond, we have many parts but shipping might be an issue....www.xr650r.co.uk

I agree with Chris, that case (Mauser's) can be welded up.
Not sure what that lip is for, kickstarter-related perhaps (holder/stopper for the spring?)?
Anyway, pop the seal out, and the welder may want to weld it partially submerged in water to prevent if from warping - but a good welder will know, leave it to him.
Oh, yeah, someone has to finish the welded part up by milling it into shape, a Dremel springs to mind here.

BuRP wrote:I agree with Chris, that case (Mauser's) can be welded up.
Not sure what that lip is for, kickstarter-related perhaps (holder/stopper for the spring?)?
Anyway, pop the seal out, and the welder may want to weld it partially submerged in water to prevent if from warping - but a good welder will know, leave it to him.
Oh, yeah, someone has to finish the welded part up by milling it into shape, a Dremel springs to mind here.

Wrong end of the case Burpies....it's where the crank comes through and connects to the clutch basket...I think it's some sort of shield for oil ?.....got £80 refund on the deal so only paid £80 for both cases delivered so chuffed

PeteN95 wrote:When you get a new case, I would invest in one of these too.  It would have saved you a lot of $!

http://www.xrsonly.com/xrs-only-case-saver-honda-xr650r-14-15-tooth-red

Well, I finally was able to have a welder look at my left case today.  He stated he could get it done.  I think that I will just have him do it and have the other bike for parts or completely restore the one I bought.  While cleaning up the burned up bike, it appears that the motor and frame are in good shape for restoration.  I will have to post pics on the clean up job progess.  See cleaned up pic of my original mistake with my chain.

Here is my progress on the spare bike I have so far.  Question - does anyone recognize what header i have?  I noticed the Exhaust is a XRONLY.

Question - how do I get the exterior of the engine to have close to its original finish?  Has lots of staining from the fire.  I have had some luck on removing the staining but still looks darker than if not been in a fire.  If I had to refinish the engine, what would be my options?

Thinking of powder coating the frame and swing arm at this time.  What are your thought for the best type of coating on the frame and swingarm?  Asking because I do not think i can get all the staining off of it  without glass blasting or similar process.

Try some brick acid, but try a sample area first

OK, curiosity kills me: what's brick acid?

http://www.jewson.co.uk/building-materials/chemicals/other-building-chemicals/products/LDJEW007/jewson-mortar-26-brick-cleaner-5l/

Thought you knew everything about Piggies Burpies ?

Clearly not Mauser,

although I know I can be thick as a brick (Jethro Tull anyone?) I never saw one when working on my pigs in my pigsty - oh wait, I lie, the walls, now I remember
This stuff may be similar to grout-remover we have here, a mild acid with sometimes a fragrance added (I kid you not, wimmin..... ).

Alu cases can sometimes be cleaned very well with a paste of BioTex (a pre-washing powder for stubborn stains, pls google it) - add a little water and brush it on the cases. Let sit&soak for a short while, then apply elbow-grease (that's scrubbing for the French & the Inuit lol) and see if this works.
Do NOT leave overnight/too long because I dunno what will happen then.... or, do & find out, but don't start yelling at me angrily pls

Blasting with glass beads will also clean them no doubt, maybe phone around to see who can do this.

Got the motor cleaned. A lot of work but it was worth it. I am very surprised with the results. So glad the motor was in great shape after all the black came off.

Spokelh wrote:
Got the motor cleaned.  A lot of work but it was worth it.  I am very surprised with the results.  So glad the motor was in great shape after all the black came off.

What a shame my donor motor's crank is bad and piston but the rings tested out good but will not use them. Looks like the cylinder is good but do not have the tools to ck it out. I guess it is nice to have extra parts. All the inside parts look very good and when I cracked open the case it was very clean inside. Everything should be usable in the engine if needed in the future during the rebuild of my other motor. Now have to rebuild the one on my bike. Wish I could have just swapped the motors out. Would have been easier.

Why is the crank bad ?...bearings gone due to heat ?

Mauser wrote:Why is the crank bad ?...bearings gone due to heat ?

The inside DIA where the Piston Pin goes on the Crank is out of spec and slightly egg shaped. All the bearing and where great though.

Can it be bushed then ground back to size ? cranks are expensive

Mauser wrote:Can it be bushed then ground back to size ?

I'm afraid that's not a clever plan Sir, unless you're scrupulous and will sell the thing upon reassembly.
A thumper gets hammered right here, and a big thumper gets hammered worse... it will not last.
If ever I'll need a new conrod I'll consider the Carillo rod (XRsOnly), its reputation preceeds it - yes, dear but here's an old saying for you: "You get what you pay for!"
And, as a rebushing of the small end will be dirtcheap (compared to a new crank or rod)..... need I say more?

Get a new one bru, you'll love yourself for it

On this, conrods going broke - know that many of these cases is the result of labouring the engine, not over-revving!
Too low revs with high load (labouring) puts enormous strain of this small surface whilst oil can do only so much, and when there's more time (too low revs...) to be pushed away then problems will occur.
Repeat this often enough (there's your habit for you) and damage will occur.

Now don't now go rev the tits off it everywhere, because that's sortof the same (less the lesser-time bit but the forces are larger with high revs) ---- just keep it all 'normal', like what Honda built if for: racing in the desert for instance, no need to hang around

YOO Maus',

ever found out what that alu lip is for?
Some hook for a spring, some guiding-lip for oil, what is it?
I'm curious pal, so you better solve my problem now

BuRP wrote:YOO Maus',

ever found out what that alu lip is for?
Some hook for a spring, some guiding-lip for oil, what is it?
I'm curious pal, so you better solve my problem now

Still non the wiser...cases tucked away in loft for the future lol....you never know.....
And my bike chugs everywhere in 5th @10 mph I'm not stressed about things failing..... just slow tarmac riding....

I am all most completed. Motor installed and I only ran it to see if it would run. Ended up gaping one of my Exhaust valves wrong and it made a ticking sound due to having the Auto decompresser engaged during gaping. Big OOPS. Scared the living hell out of me. Figured it out and all is good from reading past posts at this site. Thanks to you all. Sounds great now. Still need to purchase a chain and new sprockets. Around here mechanics are recommending Renthol.

Which is better for this bike Renthol or DID?

Big Changes Made: Powder coated frame ( Silver Silver ), Swing Arm ( Red ), Engine side Covers ( Red ). XRs Only red skid plate. Getting Graphics that state MELT DOWN on the bike since I am using the one that was in the fire ( not made at this time ). Fresh Piston Rings. All new seals, gaskets, O rings. Suspension linkage replaced.


Need a case saver. Still waiting for UK to contact me when they have some in stock. Or may design my own and have it cut to fit.

Anyone interested in Pics?

Yes please on pictures I fitted the D.I.D ZVM-X 520 Chain strongest you can buy with Renthal sprockets......14~54

Enjoy.  Looks like the D.I.D ZVM-X 520 Chain will be the best.  Not sure on sprockets.  Like the 14T and I have been using 48T.  Seems that I would like it to have a more torque in the lower gears  What Rear Sprocket should I use? I mostly ride on  trails with hills.  

Mauser wrote:

BuRP wrote:I agree with Chris, that case (Mauser's) can be welded up.
Not sure what that lip is for, kickstarter-related perhaps (holder/stopper for the spring?)?
Anyway, pop the seal out, and the welder may want to weld it partially submerged in water to prevent if from warping - but a good welder will know, leave it to him.
Oh, yeah, someone has to finish the welded part up by milling it into shape, a Dremel springs to mind here.

Wrong end of the case Burpies....it's where the crank comes through and connects to the clutch basket...I think it's some sort of shield for oil ?.....got £80 refund on the deal so only paid £80 for both cases delivered so chuffed

its the bit of case that the camchain goes around, so the chain doesnt grab the crankshaft if derailed