Anybody actually broke a master link?
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Anybody actually broke a master link?
Getting ready to replace the chain and would like to put a clipped master link on for ease of cleaning and changing gearing. What do you think, will it hold? The KTM 530 exc comes stock with a clipped link. The manual and boyarnack say staked is a must. Is this another what is the best tire question? By the way where is the best deal on a 606 rear?
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Renthal 520 gold chain
Hello,
Ive been using a clip style renthal 520 gold chain for a couple years now and haven't had a problem. Heavy, rocky trail ridding, with open fire roads, dune ridding etc. Just be sure to mount the clip in a fashion in which the direction the chain, while moving, will push the clip on the the pins.
Ive been using a clip style renthal 520 gold chain for a couple years now and haven't had a problem. Heavy, rocky trail ridding, with open fire roads, dune ridding etc. Just be sure to mount the clip in a fashion in which the direction the chain, while moving, will push the clip on the the pins.
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IMHO
You have to spend a LOT of money to beat the stock chain. Or at least that is what Precision Concepts recommends. Funny, but I just spoke with them last Friday (when they called about something else) about this very thing because my scoot is a 2002 and I'm ready to replace chain and sprockets just as a part of regular maintenance. The Honda chain is a great chain and you should simply replace it, like cables, at regular intervals. Screw maintaining cables. Just replace them. What are they like $20 or so? You can spend a ton on chains, but then it just transfers the wear to sprockets and so forth.
You don't need a case saver either. Just grind the OEM one to fit an 15 tooth front sprocket.
You don't need a case saver either. Just grind the OEM one to fit an 15 tooth front sprocket.
mamacone wrote:Getting ready to replace the chain and would like to put a clipped master link on for ease of cleaning and changing gearing. What do you think, will it hold? The KTM 530 exc comes stock with a clipped link. The manual and boyarnack say staked is a must. Is this another what is the best tire question? By the way where is the best deal on a 606 rear?
Guest- Guest
606 - Shameless Plug
mamacone:
You might give On Any Moto a ring, regarding the D606.
They are the best customer service outfit I've ever dealt with, and their prices are always competitive.
www.onanymoto.com
You will probably have to call, as their website is still being created. Expect similar prices as SWMotoTires.com (the original SWMotoTires, not the new one) was offering.
Tell'em XR650R Dave in Tucson sent ya!
Dave
You might give On Any Moto a ring, regarding the D606.
They are the best customer service outfit I've ever dealt with, and their prices are always competitive.
www.onanymoto.com
You will probably have to call, as their website is still being created. Expect similar prices as SWMotoTires.com (the original SWMotoTires, not the new one) was offering.
Tell'em XR650R Dave in Tucson sent ya!
Dave
Guest- Guest
Re: Anybody actually broke a master link?
I am staking mine, just imagine your chain breaking at speed. Best to be safe as possible. Many get by just fine with a clipped master though just keep an eye on it for wear. I think the official word on whether to go either way is engine size. Most big bores should be staked.
Guest- Guest
+1
Well put, IMHO.
There are plenty of places to cut corners on costs. Rims, hubs, modding your seat yourself, getting used stuff, jetting your keihin properly instead of buying an Edelbrock come to mind. But a few things are both a safety issue, and sound insurance against expensive outcomes. Chains are the latter.
There are plenty of places to cut corners on costs. Rims, hubs, modding your seat yourself, getting used stuff, jetting your keihin properly instead of buying an Edelbrock come to mind. But a few things are both a safety issue, and sound insurance against expensive outcomes. Chains are the latter.
desertfox wrote:I am staking mine, just imagine your chain breaking at speed. Best to be safe as possible. Many get by just fine with a clipped master though just keep an eye on it for wear. I think the official word on whether to go either way is engine size. Most big bores should be staked.
Guest- Guest
Re: Anybody actually broke a master link?
Clipped ML here. Got about 3,500 miles of hard use, dual sport, single track, rocks, sand, freeway, with no problems. I inspect regularly and carry a spare. Got a friend who's run nothing but a clipped masterlink chain for 20k miles with never a problem as well.
Last edited by RallyMoto on Thu Jul 30, 2009 3:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Re: Anybody actually broke a master link?
I really like the idea of a master link, been riding big four strokes and 500cc 2 smokers for years and never broke any chains. Really like that you can change gearing easily and clean the chain good every once in a while. I am going with a clipped master link. Thanks for all the input.
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Re: Anybody actually broke a master link?
You can change the gearing a fair amount just with the stock chain length. I agree for a dirt bike a clipped master should be fine but if you are running a lot of highway at speed 70+ I feel better with a riveted master. You can clean your chain good enough on the bike, just get a grunge brush or one of these http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/kettenmax-chain-cleaner/. Each to their own and what chain are you going with?
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Reading lawrence hacking's book about finishing Dakar ...
And late in the race he gets some help from a Honda mechanic when his bike fails and he has to be hauled several hundred kilometers in various crazy ways. Arriving back at the Bivouac about 2AM he sets to fixing his bike. The first thing the Honda mechanic does is pull out a special tool and rivet hacking's XR chain. Then they address why it quit running.
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I asked PC
I asked Bob Bell at Precision Concepts about this and he said they always rivet the chain.
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Re: Anybody actually broke a master link?
Another vote for riveting.
I am just about to change the original chain on my Pig. 7000KM approx 4200 miles of mainly dirt riding, if only all chains lasted that long.
In 3 years of trail riding I have managed to get through several chains on a variety of mainly lower power bikes. A non starter for trail riding is a non o ring chain. I made the mistake of fitting one and it did not last at all. Until recently I had been fitting spring clips but have now changed this practice. A couple of time I found that the clip was worn that thin that I could pull it off with my fingers.
Poor maintenance maybe but this wear must happen fairly quickly because I clean and check the bike over after every ride. Wise to this I changed the link more frequently only to have the link split on the solid side, luckily I was only pulling away at the time so no damage was done to casings.
After this I started riveting my chains and that has been the end of the problem.
I always clean and oil the chain on the bike and to be honest within 5 mins of coming off the trailer is is back to being covered in water and shit anyway so all I can do is keep the plates from rusting.
Most of the chains have been Iris but after seeing how long a good quality original chain lasted on the Pig I am now giving Reynolds a go in the search for longevity. I have also found changing the small sprocket when it starts to show signs of wear helps to make the chain last longer.
I am just about to change the original chain on my Pig. 7000KM approx 4200 miles of mainly dirt riding, if only all chains lasted that long.
In 3 years of trail riding I have managed to get through several chains on a variety of mainly lower power bikes. A non starter for trail riding is a non o ring chain. I made the mistake of fitting one and it did not last at all. Until recently I had been fitting spring clips but have now changed this practice. A couple of time I found that the clip was worn that thin that I could pull it off with my fingers.
Poor maintenance maybe but this wear must happen fairly quickly because I clean and check the bike over after every ride. Wise to this I changed the link more frequently only to have the link split on the solid side, luckily I was only pulling away at the time so no damage was done to casings.
After this I started riveting my chains and that has been the end of the problem.
I always clean and oil the chain on the bike and to be honest within 5 mins of coming off the trailer is is back to being covered in water and shit anyway so all I can do is keep the plates from rusting.
Most of the chains have been Iris but after seeing how long a good quality original chain lasted on the Pig I am now giving Reynolds a go in the search for longevity. I have also found changing the small sprocket when it starts to show signs of wear helps to make the chain last longer.
Guest- Guest
To go with the riveted chain
Here's the Motion Pro How-To
http://www.motionpro.com/images/documents/08-0058.I8-0058.pdf
http://www.motionpro.com/images/documents/08-0058.I8-0058.pdf
Guest- Guest
Re: Anybody actually broke a master link?
I broke one at an enduro back in 05 and my buddy broke his during this last vegas 2 reno with only 120 miles on it. My guess is the outer part came off his which of course would allow the link to breaK EASily.
XR Gene 922 30th over all at v2r.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KacplXntqGs
XR Gene 922 30th over all at v2r.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KacplXntqGs
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