uncorking my BRP today! March 18, 2012

Hello guys! well it is time to come back to our toys! winter is gone here in Canada finally spring is here once again! Burpp I am sorry I didn't ship to you my BRP LOL! ok I already change the spark arrestor on my bike, now I have to do the main jet and the needle jet, I know it was a thread on this somewhere here, I need to go through the carb and see how to do it plus what else should I do with this mod? I was reading also something about the air filter you have to replace?, do we have to remove the snorkle too? please help me and let me know.

Hey riko I see you have new plastic and new stickers on your BRP, LOOKS NICE!! where did you get them? I want to replace mine!

Rejet, replace carb isolator and remove the 2 rubber panels at the top right of the airbox...remove side panel cover helps
16211-MBN-640 CARB ISOLATOR £14.50

99101-357-1750 #175 MAIN JET £10

16012-MBN-641 MAIN NEEDLE £26.50

99105-MBN-0680 SLOW JET £11

http://www.xr650r.us/jetting/

Ok I got the main jet and the main needle in but I got the main needle set which comes with a small cylindric bushing, this is the part number Honda 16012-MBN-641 NEEDLE SET, JET
I got it from Powersport online, I took the needle apart but I saw a small cilindrical part like the one I have from the set but couldn't got it out of there, not even from the top or from the bottom where the carb float is. Please anybody could let me know where is this part and how I can get to it?
Mauser by the way I didn't order the slow jet, I will have to order it but could I ride the bike without it meantime?

Thanks,

How about posting a picture of the part.


Q: What is the recommended uncorked jetting? Altitude and choice of exhaust tip is going to make a difference here, but ballpark is a 170 to 175 main and a 68S pilot for below 1000'. The richer pilot is a must have to keep things cooler at low speeds. Also, throw in a B53E needle, Honda PN 16012-MBN-641. It comes as a set with a new seat and has a richer grind at the tip, allowing more fuel at the lower throttle ranges. This info comes direct from a Honda service bulletin. (The Wrench 2/00)

Here's a couple variations that pop up. Some run as high as a 180 jet with stronger midrange results than the 175. They are easy to change, so grab a few extras and fiddle. Just remember to change only ONE THING AT A TIME when doing carb adjustments. It makes trouble shooting easier. Also, some have had bad luck with the B53E needle, getting funky throttle results with it. I run the stocker with no problems and have not yet tried the HRC one. I will asap for a comparison here.

Q: How do I properly adjust the pilot screw? First, a quick definition to clear up a common misconception I see. The BRP has a pilot screw that can also be called a fuel screw because it is located on the outlet side of the carb. That means that screwing it in meters less fuel to the pilot circuit, while screwing it out meters more fuel to the circuit. If the screw were on the inlet side of the carb, it would be called an air screw and do just the opposite. Screwing it in would supply less air, screwing it out would supply more. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, or if you have a better, more understandable, definition.

Anyway, here's the adjustment procedure for a fuel screw per Gary, our local group Einstein on stuff like this:

Make sure your engine is fully warmed up and set the pilot screw to 1.5 turns out. Then with the 68s installed, turn the pilot screw clockwise until the idle slows. Then turn the pilot screw counterclockwise until the idle slows again. Make a mental note of how many turns you made in between the low idle points. Then turn the pilot screw half way between the low idle points to finish the adjustment. If you turn the adjuster counterclockwise and the idle doesn't drop down, then you need a larger pilot jet. If you turn the pilot screw clockwise and the idle doesn't drop down, then you need a smaller pilot jet. After adjusting your pilot circuit, re-adjust your idle speed if necessary.

Q: What's so special about the "S" in a 68s pilot jet? The 68s has smaller holes than a standard pilot. It will change the flow characteristics and atomization of the fuel. You can run a regular jet in there if you want, but then you won't be on the same playing field as the rest of us, meaning that we can't help you!

How about posting a picture of the part in question.


Q: What is the recommended uncorked jetting? Altitude and choice of exhaust tip is going to make a difference here, but ballpark is a 170 to 175 main and a 68S pilot for below 1000'. The richer pilot is a must have to keep things cooler at low speeds. Also, throw in a B53E needle, Honda PN 16012-MBN-641. It comes as a set with a new seat and has a richer grind at the tip, allowing more fuel at the lower throttle ranges. This info comes direct from a Honda service bulletin. (The Wrench 2/00)

Here's a couple variations that pop up. Some run as high as a 180 jet with stronger midrange results than the 175. They are easy to change, so grab a few extras and fiddle. Just remember to change only ONE THING AT A TIME when doing carb adjustments. It makes trouble shooting easier. Also, some have had bad luck with the B53E needle, getting funky throttle results with it. I run the stocker with no problems and have not yet tried the HRC one. I will asap for a comparison here.

Q: How do I properly adjust the pilot screw? First, a quick definition to clear up a common misconception I see. The BRP has a pilot screw that can also be called a fuel screw because it is located on the outlet side of the carb. That means that screwing it in meters less fuel to the pilot circuit, while screwing it out meters more fuel to the circuit. If the screw were on the inlet side of the carb, it would be called an air screw and do just the opposite. Screwing it in would supply less air, screwing it out would supply more. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, or if you have a better, more understandable, definition.

Anyway, here's the adjustment procedure for a fuel screw per Gary, our local group Einstein on stuff like this:

Make sure your engine is fully warmed up and set the pilot screw to 1.5 turns out. Then with the 68s installed, turn the pilot screw clockwise until the idle slows. Then turn the pilot screw counterclockwise until the idle slows again. Make a mental note of how many turns you made in between the low idle points. Then turn the pilot screw half way between the low idle points to finish the adjustment. If you turn the adjuster counterclockwise and the idle doesn't drop down, then you need a larger pilot jet. If you turn the pilot screw clockwise and the idle doesn't drop down, then you need a smaller pilot jet. After adjusting your pilot circuit, re-adjust your idle speed if necessary.

Q: What's so special about the "S" in a 68s pilot jet? The 68s has smaller holes than a standard pilot. It will change the flow characteristics and atomization of the fuel. You can run a regular jet in there if you want, but then you won't be on the same playing field as the rest of us, meaning that we can't help you![/quote]

Make sense aurora, so i am going to order that 68S right now, also I just put back the carb and went for a ride and went I give her throttle it is missing gas and doesn't go, on idle is fine, the altitude in Toronto is around 120 meter or 249 ft or so. I haven't play around with the adjustment on the screw 1.5 turn to start like you said since I have to take her a part again when I get my slow jet 68S. So I will be waiting anxious LOL. Thanks, Guys!

68S product is obsolete, anywhere I can find it? what is the one I have now in? because they have the 68 without the S, will it work?

this is what I ordered:

Printable Version
Part Name Current Price
18317-MBN-640 ARRESTER, SPARK

$115.45
16211-MBN-640 INSULATOR, CARB

$13.49
99101-357-1750 JET, MAIN (#175)

$5.37
16012-MBN-641 NEEDLE SET, JET

$16.21

Mauser wrote:Rejet, replace carb isolator and remove the 2 rubber panels at the top right of the airbox...remove side panel cover helps

I'm sure Mauser does not mean this - as the airfilter is held in place by the side panel! So, riding without would mean no airfilter, just in case you dunno this already.
However, an "opened up" sidepanel helps indeed, and this Mauser means i think.
XRsOnly sell them (new of course), or a kit allowing you to modify your existing sidepanel.
If you order form them then maybe also order some spare filters, the UNI brand, and I would order the less-restrictive support screen (the metal screen behind the filter) also.
Doing all this allows the bike to 'breath in', and naturally this will make a difference. Keep inmind that then also the exhaust needs to be modified to allow all this, and then this piggy will oink properly.

BuRP wrote:

Mauser wrote:Rejet, replace carb isolator and remove the 2 rubber panels at the top right of the airbox...remove side panel cover helps

I'm sure Mauser does not mean this - as the airfilter is held in place by the side panel! So, riding without would mean no airfilter, just in case you dunno this already.
However, an "opened up" sidepanel helps indeed, and this Mauser means i think.
XRsOnly sell them (new of course), or a kit allowing you to modify your existing sidepanel.
If you order form them then maybe also order some spare filters, the UNI brand, and I would order the less-restrictive support screen (the metal screen behind the filter) also.
Doing all this allows the bike to 'breath in', and naturally this will make a difference. Keep inmind that then also the exhaust needs to be modified to allow all this, and then this piggy will oink properly.

I meant to remove the rubbers it might be easier to remove the side panel...then replace once the 2 rubbers have been taken out

O ya well now ma fine bru, yip, of course those two plastic push-out plugs must come out of the airfilter housing.
Push..Click...Chuck (dustbin) - repeat once (2 plugs).

You see, I was right in assuming Maus' didn't mean what I said he meant because I assumed.... let's stop already
Bikerman, you know what we mean, so take it from there, just open the bleddie thing.
Your jet (68s) discontinued??? Maybe as a Honda-part, but not as a Keihin part ........... phone Sudco and see if they can help?

Note: the fuel filter/screen found on the petcock, inside of the fuel tank, tend to get clogged and restricts fuel flow.

Yes you are right, I did cleaned it when I got the bike last May 2011, but I can double check again, it doesn't hurt, I can't find the 2 rubbers inside the air filter box, any pictures to see how they looks like? today is really nice and hot, I am going to see if I can get her running and warm up and see how she will does. I will come back with the report. Thanks guys!

This should help you out....
http://www.xr650r.co.uk/about/faqs.shtml#4

Ok I understand better now, but I have a question, here on the link it says to put the clip on the 3rd groove on the main needle but somehow I read somewhere else use it on the 4thposition which I have it there now, should I change it to the 3rd position? The altitude here in Toronto is around 347 ft.

bikerman wrote:Ok I understand better now, but I have a question, here on the link it says to put the clip on the 3rd groove on the main needle but somehow I read somewhere else use it on the 4thposition which I have it there now, should I change it to the 3rd position? The altitude here in Toronto is around 347 ft.

If the stock needle is use you must add one position richer which would be the 4th position.
Just remember these is a good reference. You might need to tweak you setting for your own bike.

I went to HDLparts.com and looked for the 68S jet. Here it is:


Reverse Part Number Lookup
Manufacturer:
Enter a part number:
Parts Search Results
QUANTITY PART RETAIL YOUR PRICE
JET, SLOW (#68) (99105-MBN-0680 ) $9.73 $7.49


I know it doesn't say 68S but that is what should come in the package.

Or try Sudco 1-800-998-3529

Thanks Aurora,
I went to the Honda Dealer last week and I ordered through them, tomorrow I am going to pick it up and on the weekend I am going to change everything again and see how she will run, I will let you know guys!
Thanks for the support, Love this Forum!
IBM

Well Guys, Thank you for all the info, I just redo again my mod yesterday (move the clip to 3rd position, install the new needle set and installed the 68 slow jet) and now it is working like a charm without tunning the carb, still I need to remove the air filter tab for more air to come inside the engine but at least it is working much better, I didn't take it for a long ride only around the block and it wasn't warm up properly, may be the weekend I will go for a ride and wake up the neighbours LOL! I will post a video since I got one of those mini video cameras, I will try it out and see if it works.

Filter-tabs must come out - and is a 3 second jobbie

Ok Burp sounds good, tomorrow I will do it, it is a holiday

It's the same as breathing through a straw - you don't want to, and Piggie does not either

Burp as you said easy jobbie, well now with this mod you really have to wait until the engine is really warm otherwise if I start riding will shut off like lacking of gas or air, don't know, I still need to tune up my carb but the cold weather came back, still haven't ride it yet.

Guys I am very happy with the HRC carb upgrade on my pig but I still have a problem, anytime the bike is cold and I go to a stop light the bike start backfiring and want to shut off, I need to rev it all the time also when I am taking off if I don't rev a couple of time before I take off it will die on me. Any suggestion on what to do? should I change any jet for a bigger ones? please don't have experience with carb, any help will be appreciate it. I want to make a video riding the bike I will try to post it so maybe you can hear what she does if no I will have to take it to the Honda dealership which I really don't want to but I will like to do a valve adjustment anyway so I may end it up bring it in.