XR650R Loud knocking after exit the HWY

the std carb is not very good, its choke bore design is what makes the brp excessively thirsty, i only have praise for the fcr carb, they do everything a carb should, probably the mikuni flatslide item works near as good, its definetly easier to install, i had them on my old hotrodded gsxr 1100.
as to tuning, im certain that the fcr is the easiest carb to tune, the std carb is not very forgiving to tune, the idle circuit is the most annoying type carb ive ever had to tune, and there's been a fair few of them.
i struggled to get better than 90km out of a std tank of gas with it, the fcr40 i had gave around 130km at 120kph, the fcr43.5 i have now gives me 15k/litre even with large overlap camshafts which usually cause poor fuel consumption, but..., its a bitch! to fit to the brp, i did do it the hard way by lefthand converting the cable assembly, and handcrafting the velocity stack to suit,  it was all worth it though.
the fcr conversion process i posted in the forum somewhere, just found it in the mod squad, under fcr carb boring

BM,

that cylinder looks very good indeed still! The honing marks (crisscross pattern) are still crisp, so I doubt there's any worthwhile wear there, however do measure.
On the honing, one needs a special hone to score Nikasil, diamonds are used. If the bore measures fine I'd leave it as is, just a new piston will do fine.

But, you now are at conrod/crank level - any noticeable play, up/down and sideways-tilting?

Also, and if I've missed it sorry, but how do your rockers look like, the surface following the cams?
Then, the chainguides, any visible wear there?

Lastly, any oil found in the statorhousing (supposed to be dry), and if so, how much?

Thanks! Last night I removed the flywheel and split the cranks cover in half, I found the rod where the piston attached with the pin looks black and has some wear damaged there. I will take some pictures later, now I need to know if anyway I will have to remove the crank to replaced the rod with a new one. Now my bearings looks all new and the gears also are nice without any wear. So my best option is go with a new piston and rings, new rod, check my cylinder head for wear hopefully is good and I don't have to touch it. My timing chain, tensioner etc is good to go

Well guys just got Home from the machine shop and also from Honda dealership ordering my parts. The good news is I only had danaged the rod and a piston with the pin. So I ordered the Falicon rod kit from XR'S only, Tommy and Mike were really good help there. Also my head is nice and keeping the compression and my piston is also good. So I ordered a new piston and rings from Honda and a buch of orings and gaskets, the honda grease and the silicon to put it back together. Believe it or not the price at Honda waa cheaper that other web sites.
I guess she is going to be back and running sooner than expected! I want it to go with the hot came stage 1 but decided to stay stock as possible!.
Neil thanks for the advice i will double check but already the machine shop owner look at all the bearings and I insisted him that I want to change them but He says they are in really good shape and told to leave them alone. I will clean all the oil passagein the frame, I did clean the crankcase mybself plus Ingave them to the machine shop to clen them in the hot tank too. Tomorrow Inwill work half day and I am planning to clean all the gears eith the varsol tank at work. I wonder if I can clean the clutch discs in there too?

Spend the money on the S1 cam, replace the valves, stem seals and get the seats re-cut while you have it open.
My valves were nearly worn through, could've had a shave with them they were that sharp. Replaced them with Kibblewhites.
The S1 cam improves economy also.

What brand cam S1?

the best mod for brp, stage 1 camshaft, hotcams, xrs only hrc copy cam, webb cams also have a version.
just wash the clutch plates in some petrol, then lightly oil them as you reinstall them, dont forget to check/ file basket fingers

Well BM,

lucky you - if it had been the bigend then it would have been a REALLY loud noise!
Smallends do not go that often though, and seeing this rod does not have an oilbore in it it is lubed by an oilmist only 'leaking' from the bigend. Better check the full lubrication system very well.
How many miles did you put on it, and what oil did you use?

Burp, I don't do a lot of km or miles, just ride her once in a while to work (12km) one way so 24 km a day when we have good weather here, so Infill up my tank every week when I use it. If I use it 3 months during the year to go to work which I don't donit itnid too much.
Inuse the honda oil but I am goong to build my engine and from the beginning Inam planning to use Motul oil this time.
I did get all the oil pump gears new from Honda (4 of them) if that helps.
I want to poor some kind of solvent to clean the frame and blow it but not sure if this is good idea at all or just blow it with air gun.
What are your thoughts
I want to do it right now that it is apart

BM,

Nill offense pls, but are you the type that revs the tits off the thing the moment you kick it into life?
If so you may want to change that, and I know some guys do.
I'm not, ever, for I just keep any engine from dying until I know there is oil everywhere - which is after say 30 seconds, or more depending on the engine.
I ask because that wristpin is not too common to fail...
Oh, Motul's fine oil.

No I am not like that, I start my engine and leave it running while I get ready with my helmut and gloves, the I close my garage then I go. Yes I like to ride fast but that doesn't mean I am killing the bike, they were built for that didn't they?

bikerman wrote:What brand cam S1?

Sorry bikerman, S1= Stage 1.
It's the cam the bike should have came with originally.

Also, pull the oil spray jet that's in the lower section under the cylinder. It's pressed into the right hand side crankcase facing upwards, shoots up under the piston.
It's held in with o'rings only, check to make sure its clear of any obstructions.

I aas just on the phone with XR only (Tommy) ordering the hot came S-1, so is this ok to buy?

That should liven her up a bit.

I got mybFalicon Rod and dropped at the Machine shop Friday and pick up some parts for my Bike, most of then seals and gasket!! Also I got my exhaust sandblasted and painted with some heat paint in a can. For next week I will have my piston and ring done so I can put back together my engine next weekend. Here are some pictures.

urrrhh.... i forgot how terrible the std headers are!, find it difficult to beleive honda had the nerve to put those on an engine, please replace them asap, they were developed to go with the corked mtr.
to prove my point check out the size of the ex port, you'll find its the same size as the 1st part of the header pipe, then there is that abnormal reduction in the size, it reduces by around 3 pipe sizes - that is as much flow as it can deliver, i.e restricted, any aftermarket pipe will improve things drasticly, especially with that stage 1 cam .

temporary kiwi wrote:urrrhh....  i forgot how terrible the std headers are!, find it difficult to beleive honda had the nerve to put those on an engine, please replace them asap, they were developed to go with the corked mtr.
to prove my point check out the size of the ex port, you'll find its the same size as the 1st part of the header pipe, then there is that abnormal reduction in the size, it reduces by around 3 pipe sizes - that is as much flow as it can deliver, i.e restricted, any aftermarket pipe will improve things drasticly, especially with that stage 1 cam .

Really depends on what your after...my bike ticks all the boxes with stock headers and stock carb....

Mine too Mausie!

XRsOnly SS headers, T4 silencer (misnomer, "antisocially loud barker" would be better), TM40, open side..... yeah, ticks all boxes indeed

Well I just told the machine shop to do a mild port and did place an order for my S1 cam with the SS XR headers, my question is should I run different gear set up now with this new mod? I have right now 15/45

i found 15/45 good for all round gearing, for more touring work i have 15/43, even the stock 48th rear is good for 185kph with a 15th front, that is with std wheels though, run a tape around your back wheel/tyre to get the circumference, then compare to the std rear wheel/tyre, then you'll know what % to raise gearing from stock.

I went to pick up my new parts and also my new falicon Rod already installed on the main crank, the lower end pin was damaged and some bearings rollers were not looking so good, here are some pics. I did asked the machine ahop to ported my head a bit. I am waiting for my new S1 cam to arrive and some new graphics from XR only are coming too

I want you guys watch this pic where the oil pump rotor goes and tell me if I should replaced this cover, I don't like the way this marks looks.

Looks to me like it's been TIG welded ?......

Nothing to worry about, that's normal on any casting on your bike or any other bike.

wassie wrote:Nothing to worry about, that's normal on any casting on your bike or any other bike.

Wassie's right! there just casting marks, very normal i have some on mine and some of my buds have them on there crf's and xr600's no worries! build on my friend