200w stator, What to install Regulator/Rectifier ?

Thanks, I have a service Manual. I have already started the process of repair.

so horrible

i can feel youre pain Dimitri

but good to see you gonna fix that piggie back on track

good luck with the rebuild

Repairing + tuning, now I wait for delivery of BIG BORE 102.11: 40 mm, + 1 Wiseco Hotcams Stage 1

Hello Lawyer999, Can I have a copy of the service manual for the XR650R?

lawyer999RUSSIAN wrote:Thanks, I have a service Manual. I have already started the process of repair.

Rikco thanks for the Manual, How do you save it? Can it be saved?

rikco wrote:http://issuu.com/viewer?mode=embed&documentId=080207201915-a9614fa8a33e47dcb595719384785a5c&layout=white

bikerman wrote:Rikco thanks for the Manual, How do you save it? Can it be saved?

rikco wrote:http://issuu.com/viewer?mode=embed&documentId=080207201915-a9614fa8a33e47dcb595719384785a5c&layout=white

Yo bikerman, I am uploading my copy for you, will take a few minutes then I can send you a link to download it, fairly big @ 148meg. Shame it's not a 100% perfect copy as it's the book scanned but still very good.

If anyone has an OWNERS-manual - the little booklet that came with the bike - then I'd like to have a copy/scan of it.
Can't find one anywhere, that, why I ask here?

Dimitri,

How you're doing - waiting for parts, or is it running again?
Hope the latter

i got that owners manual book that came with the bike but i don't got a scanner

i try to find it @ google for ya

It is ok Rikco I do have the owners manual I was thinking about the repair manual to do all my maintenance on her, may be adjust the valves, also I want to clean my carb like BURP said, I just don't want to damage it like my 250 when I open I pinch my valve vacuum and now I did have to spend extra 100 US for it! D!?/;j"'% on this I am not openinig that diaphragm no matter what they said LOL

BM & Ricko,

I would really appreciate a copy of that Owners Manual (got the Service Manual BM, it's on the net, a pdf). Photocopiers, when told to 'scan', these days output a pdf-file, and that would be ideal.
If you have it pls PM me, I'll give you my email-addy, it shouldn't be too big anyway.

Burp count on it, it will take me a little bit of time to scan itn here is my e-mail address so you can send me the service manual ibayter@gmail.com please send me yours e-mail to send you the OM maybe if I have time tonight
Thanks,
IBM

BM,

Sorry BM, can't mail you it!
I tried sending you it via Yahoo..... but that limit is 25Meg, a nogo.
Then tried via my OE (no limit as far as I know) but it hung-up the PC twice...... this is a file of 147 MEG BM, way too big for mailing, you'll have to download it from the link given above. I hope you've got Mozilla Firefox as your browser because, except for the utterly user-friendliness (MS should flippin' learn here!!!!!) it also has a superb download-manager who will even allow you to stop today & continue days later if you want.
All the various links link to the same pdf-file I've seen, so no difference, sizewise ditto.
I've printed mine, it is a proper thick file full of info you need & want.

The reason I want the Owners manual also is that I suspect it has little bits either additional of different, and I'd like to know that. Besides, even if only for "have"-sake, I'd like to get it.

Not a problem, dowloaded from site, I am working on my fuel tank, I emptied and will take carb out like you said and see what happens, after I will install a small filter before the carb, tonight I will start the scanning on the manual so I can send it to you.
IBM

BM,

standard carb I take it?
Do yourself a favour now - and I hope you've read that this thing has a habit of flooding, shitty starting after a tipover, setting the airbox (or the entire bike?) alight etc etc.
The float-level is to be set at 16mm I believe - but do NOT, set it at 18mm, you may even go to 19mm!
How you do this (sorry if you already know) is following: turn the carb from horizontal (ie 90 deg's off the normal position) to upside-down, but slowly - whilst looking at the tab of the float.
When this tab just touches the little thingy of the needle - and know that small thing is springloaded! - then that is the position/angle to measure the float-level!!!! So, to be overly clear, do not turn it fully upside-down, because then the float compresses the tiny spring and you will get a wrong reading!
Oh, no gasket, measure top-of-float to gasket-face.
Why a bigger floatlevel, not 16 but 18? To keep the fuel-level lower of course, and this will prevent flooding when leant over on the sidestand, it will help reducing the internal spillage when taking a nap etc etc. And no, it hardly affects your jetting/settings, you'll only might have to re-set/adjust the mixture screw.
If you've been reading enough then you'll know this is a must-do which will pay dividends when you use the bike 'out there'.

Ok BURP I just finished cleaning my carb, I didn't want to take the tpp off where the diaphragm was if there is any, I asume thinking on the KLR250 I took apart last week so I clean everything all the needle and jet but the mix screw didn't want to mess aroun with it, I took her around the block and feel good. On the throttle response she goes don't hesitate and wants to pull me out of the seat! So I guess it's ok, the only question I have is the main needle when you take the little cap off on top with the phillips screw drive I didn't pay attention so when I put it back there is a nut that secure or lock the needle how far in does the needle has to be? Should be at the same level or below the top of the jet? It is done now but I would like to know if it is wrong or if it is ok.

Thanks,

IBM

OK, on the top of my head:
- the jet-needle (the long tapered needle visible when you look into the opened carb) mounts in the slide, and 'mates' with the needle-jet (yeah, a bit confusing terminology) which is mounted into the carb from the bottom, and the main-jet screws into this thing (I think there's a 'holder' inbetween these two but am not 100% sure, does not make a diff anyway).
- The jet-needle has 5 grooves at the top in which a circlip goes, and this lot is held by a thingy + screw into the slide. Hence, by putting the circlip into different grooves you 'set' the height, therefore taper, therefore diameter and therefore a certain richness or leanness (amount of petrol).
If you've got the correct jet-needle it normally sits in or close to the middle position, in our case the 3rd groove.
- MIND THOUGH, there also is a thin nylon washer. This washer has half the thickness of the distance between the grooves, and thus you can set the needle to half a groove-height!
This washer sits under the circlip for 'whole' grooves, and sits on top for 'half' grooves - hope that makes sense?

The generally accepted 'standard' position is 3rd groove, which then means the thin washer sits under the circlip.

You mention 'top' and 'diaphragm' - this carb does not have this, that you'll only find on CV (constant vacuum) carbs.
There is however a diaphragm on the LH-side, a small cover with 3 (or 4, can't remember) screws.
This you do want to take off!
Behind it sits, in sequence: a small spring and a diaphragm (maybe the other way around, not 100% sure - just look!). No, it won't jump on you, you won't loose this. In the cover you will find a tiny hole, a bore. This bore you 'plug' with a tiny droplet of epoxyglue or sillicone, let it set/dry overnight, and re-mount these 3 parts..... Bob's your Uncle!
What you've done now is disabling a mixture-leaning mechanism which is active on overrun, with as result less popping of the exhaust, and a bit better engine-braking... and that is what you're after!
Never mind that you'll throw a tiny amount of extra hydrocarbons into the environment during overrun, but if it bothers you then keep it wide-open all the time

Have fun, this carb is zero rocket science, it's a simpe, thing - and works well.