Harness from a 650L fit 650R ?

Hey guys,
I wonder if I get the harness out of XR650L, 2007 will it fit to do the wiring on the horn, blinkers Hi Lo beam and brake lights on the XR650R 2004 ?

Might do but don't forget your stator connection might be different.

Well mauser I did order the ricky stator but I can get the wires out of the plug and re-use the XR plug for the new stator and regulator, does it make any sense?

BM,

why would you want to re-wire an Audi with a Golf's wiring harness?
The L & the R have 4 things in common: 4-stroke, single, Red & Honda!
I've read plenty about the sold D/S-harnesses and they seem to work too, however I'd rewire myself. It is what I will do quite soon as I at the moment have zero working but for the ignition, and I want quite a bit more than that - indeed roadworthy D/S plus some.
Besides, another advantage of diy is that faultfinding - if ever required underway - becomes a piece of cake, as you know what's what.

Ok BURP I know what you mean, so I will do it, thanks.

No idea if you're electrically dyslexic (no offense pls) or an outright fundi with it, but this 'bike' will take you away, out there, and you'll have to rely on it. As the ignition is a stand-alone system you only need a kill-function, but all the rest is - let's be honest here - "extra", you actually could do without!
That's what fuses are for, or rather that's what they do
You only need a few: headlight, indicators combined with brake/taillight and instruments, and the hooter shares either circuit dept on how you like it - that's it. Hey, you may add more (I will), but that's the basics.
Oh yeah, extra's, like heated grips or jacket or accessory outlet, they all need a fuse each.
Pay extra attention to the thickness (gauge?) of the wires used, and if you cannot split a circuit fuse-wise (when using a combination handlebar-switch for instance) then use a relay (for the headlight for instance). Doing this you put small loads on the switches, hence need thin wires only, whilst the actual consumer (the headlight) can have thicker wire plus its own fuse!
Yeah right, now you're going to tell me you're an auto-electrician, and I'm preaching to the pope
Goodnight, and if you need it: goodluck!

Lol !! Not I am not an electrcian biut I am handy and always ask before and try to understand what I am doing then I go ahead and do the job, besides at work there is an electrician that I can count on him, always go to him before my project and He will draw a diagram an explain why Io should do the way He's telling me pluis now I have this forum and You!! LOL! Who seems to know what you are talking.

If you need it I can email you a diagram - but you better tell me first what you have (stator, reg/rect, batt etc) & what you want to have (full DS kit & accessories).
As I bought quite a bit of kit (connectors, sleeving etc) I could give you some links for buying stuff, but you chaps seem to buy this around any corner it seems (def. not here!). The trick is - when making a system/loom - to have the least amount of connections & use only those connections (crimped connectors, bullet terminals) which have proven reliable. Then, using colour-coded wires (correct gauge), pvc-sleeving with heatshrinked ends will make for a neat lot which will be reliable.
Hey, if you want to buy this lot I've read about & seen pics of a "Warness" - google this, it is a superb harness, but costs a bit. Also, you get to specify what you want (tailormade), and then it's paying, waiting & mounting - an idea perhaps?

Burp's right BM I didn't notice the 650L has a load of fuses....doh forgot it has the battery etc. I would just find a UK/European loom and do what I did swap it out, only took me an hour to get the loom swapped over and then I added the indicators, I brought proper connectors to connect to the new loom.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170505922773&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Then added these to the ends of the wires and plugged in the indicators, don't forget you will need the rectifier which sits behind the headlight to get your horn working etc, thinking about it I got the whole lot loom, rectifier & regulator from the same donor bike which was great as everything just plugged in. Light switch etc are nearly all the same on the XR250 XR400 etc so anyone of them will work OK.

Thanks Mauser,

never knew the hooter has a rect, I'd assumed H would have used an AC-type! Makes sense though, and this rect you could use then when you want LED-indicators. LED's will work on AC, at half brightness of course, but the flasher for it (special LED-flasher) needs DC to work >> which then will cause the LED's to work at full brightness of course.
On the rectifier, a simple greatz-block (small thing, 4 pins, 4 diodes) is sufficient when you feed regulated AC into it. It should have a rating (safe-side) of 2x the hooter's amperage, and the LED's pull zilch anyway.
So, no need for a separate rect/reg.

BM will want to install brakelight-switches. I'd go for the hydraulic type, they screw-in the master cylinders. Buy the Japanese thread-type (you can choose of 2 different threads, the wrong & correct one!) and they will fit easily - and it's a nice excuse to renew the brakefluid & bleed the lot.
Oh BM, if you want a more snappy (front)brake then this is the time to get a braided line installed. Will ride tar? Then do this, no regrets.

I have sent BM these pistures already

Added 1 to the front and 1 to the rear, managed to get some flag crimps which are neat and fit perfect
worth buying the proper crimper as it makes a great job. I tried getting an AC horn without much luck and when i did try an old 1 it didn't work to well on my original AC stock loom, of course soon as I swapped the loom and fitted the rectifier etc all was well, horn plugged into the lool and works fine now, not very loud but it's good enough.
The presure switches I got were the type with spade connectors as the pre-wired units don't look as neat and your left then with only a short piece of wire and another joint . With the proper connections you can make your own cable to go straight back to the loom. I must post some pictures of my tail/brake light it's basically a small LED bulb which has 2 sets of LED's in, not perfect but it's very tight under the stock lens cover and not much room.

Just found the switches here
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Banjo-brake-light-switch-M10x1-25-Honda-Kawasaki-001-/160591082161?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2563f972b1

Or these looked good also but out of my price range, would fit well on the front brake
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Banjo-Switch-fits-between-bolt-unit-/250783212794?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a63d824fa

Yes Mauser You sent this already, I have a question regarding the wiring on the Banjo Switches, I have 2 singles banjo, when I conect them to the brake lines there are 2 wires, 1 is Positive and the other is ground? where do you take them? 1 goes to the new LED light bulb and the other one to the ground? please give me some ideas how to wire them.

Thanks,

IBM

The switches are just that on and off they do not go to ground or anything like that, you can switch power +12volts or begative 0 volts, I am pretty sure the indicators are wired to the ground within the wiring loom not the bikes ground and then the handlebar switch then sends the +12 volts to the indicators other wire, cannot remember if it goes through the flasher unit first or after the switch.

BM,

your rear lightbulb (or whatever you use) has both filaments (or LED's) already grounded.
So, the brake-switches have to switch the supply, in parallel (not in series) too. This means that one wire (per switch) is live, the other one is only live when the brake is pulled.
Beginning with supply the sequence would thus be: fuse > 2 switches > globe > ground, hope that makes sense to you.

LOL, come on now Mauser,

you do know it - first the flasher-unit, then the switch....... as the switch goes to either direction.
Place it after the switch and you'd need 2 flasher-units

Mauser when you said globe are you meaning the light? Where did you get the fuse box, how many fuses do you need and location for it?

BuRP wrote:LOL, come on now Mauser,

you do know it - first the flasher-unit, then the switch....... as the switch goes to either direction.
Place it after the switch and you'd need 2 flasher-units

Give me a break Burp, I was typing this post and trying to work @ the same time lol, BM what globe ?.
No fuses on the bike at all just stock wiring and the modified tail light.
Here is the LED bulb I brought.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LED-Stop-and-Tail-Bulb-Spade-Connection-E05-/310320637508?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item48408d2644
Just needed to solder some cable to the bulb and then connect to the loom.

I bought BajaDesign's rear-light conversion kit, which consist of a lampholder (which accepts the normal duplo lamp) and a lens. I thought keep it simple, a normal globe will work fine but I already bought LED-globes, quite like Mauser.
Turns out only the lens fits, however is of a crap quality. The lampholder alone cannot be made to fit, let alone put a lamp in, and also this thing is of dubious quality. No doubt made in prehistoric China, a waste of money....

So I bought the LED-array, this one http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/36/24/index.shtml , about halfway down the page: it is a perfect fit, plug & play, and the light produced it great!! Fully waterproof too, I can only recommend it.

BuRP wrote:I bought BajaDesign's rear-light conversion kit, which consist of a lampholder (which accepts the normal duplo lamp) and a lens. I thought keep it simple, a normal globe will work fine but I already bought LED-globes, quite like Mauser.
Turns out only the lens fits, however is of a crap quality. The lampholder alone cannot be made to fit, let alone put a lamp in, and also this thing is of dubious quality. No doubt made in prehistoric China, a waste of money....

So I bought the LED-array, this one http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/36/24/index.shtml , about halfway down the page: it is a perfect fit, plug & play, and the light produced it great!! Fully waterproof too, I can only recommend it.

Hey burp thats the light fitting I wanted did the guy post to you OK ?, did he charge a lot for shipping etc ?.
Would love 1 of those have you any pictures to show us ?.

Why Mauser,

of course they did - not to you I take it? Mongolian Pirates, that must have been it!
Got mine fine, was the only thing I ordered, got here in the normal time, and the postage was reasonable. Got no pics, but also dunno how to post them here - throw me a mail (you got my addy) and I'll get some made, will even try to dazzle you with the light on bright
However, as I said, you won't regret buying this, it really is a super little thing. Oh, if I must moan: I replaced 2 of the 4 little screws (the 2 going through the fender - and no, no need for drilling) by stainless one's, and put nyloc nuts on. You, living in the wet, would do best to do same. But again, all is supplied, also springwashers & nuts, just not stainless - and I'm probably full of anyway

Well Guys, I am getting almost all my stuff this weekend, I still have to order the mirror with the bracket, I haven't got any luck with the fourstrokesonly guys since you can not order from internet and isent them an email but nobody had got to me an answer yet, I have my vapor tech, with my signals, tail light, relay, ricky stator and the regulator, (the horn and switch used from an 2007 XL) so only thing left is the front light maybe leave the original lense and switch the bulb, don't know about this one yet.
So don;t ask me how I am going to do all this mods on her but I am open to any sugestion from the pros please.

Thanks,
BM

BM,

Get yourself the BajaDesigns handlebar-switch. One switch does it all, you'll get: ignition off, kill switch (these are 2 different functions), hooter, indicators with push-return, lights: park, low & high (no 'off') with a small LED for highbeam.
This all connects with 1 connector (plus dual bullets for ignition) so you've got the neatest way of wiring.
This is a good unit but heed 1 warning: do not use the switches for high-current applications (like your headlights), they'll wear or burn >> so use a relay instead.
Add two brakelight-switches & that's it!

The Vapor has its own 4 connectors, you know what to do there.
One word of advice: if at all possible mount the rect/reg (got DC I presume?) on some aluminium plate or something, as this will help it too cool (call it a heatsink if you like).

Oh, I forget, 1 thing:

Use fuses!!!! For anything powered by (any) regulator you use a fuse!
You may use a single fuse for multiple functions, like hooter + indicator + brakelight, but the bigger consumers (headlight, powersocket, heated grips etc) have their own fuse (plus own relay).
Zero fuses means, when you've got a short, that the reg will become the fuse......

Ok I will listen to you, I will try to make a small fuse box, One thing I didn't catch when you said "presume got DC" what do you mean? I onlyorder the ricky stator and the voltage regulator for the 200 Watt output, I don't think I have a DC rectifier, do I have to get one? Please advice, I didn't get my parts this weekend I guess they will come on Monday so I have to wait until next weekend shame !

IBM

BuRP wrote:Oh, I forget, 1 thing:

Use fuses!!!! For anything powered by (any) regulator you use a fuse!
You may use a single fuse for multiple functions, like hooter + indicator + brakelight, but the bigger consumers (headlight, powersocket, heated grips etc) have their own fuse (plus own relay).
Zero fuses means, when you've got a short, that the reg will become the fuse......

The vapor comes with a temp sensor, do we have to drill the radiator and make some thread to install it? just trying to see ahead of time before I get the Vapor, waiting for it.

IBM

BuRP wrote:BM,

Get yourself the BajaDesigns handlebar-switch. One switch does it all, you'll get: ignition off, kill switch (these are 2 different functions), hooter, indicators with push-return, lights: park, low & high (no 'off') with a small LED for highbeam.
This all connects with 1 connector (plus dual bullets for ignition) so you've got the neatest way of wiring.
This is a good unit but heed 1 warning: do not use the switches for high-current applications (like your headlights), they'll wear or burn >> so use a relay instead.
Add two brakelight-switches & that's it!

The Vapor has its own 4 connectors, you know what to do there.
One word of advice: if at all possible mount the rect/reg (got DC I presume?) on some aluminium plate or something, as this will help it too cool (call it a heatsink if you like).