Harness from a 650L fit 650R ?

Crypto,

Erm, how do I tell you this, eh, yes, I have done this before, quite a few times actually. Wrong guess.
Why do you think "You will be doing both in this situation.."? I wonder because I won't, but yes, I indeed will run dual regs - because I HAVE to. As an aside, that's exactly same like you do, you got two too, so so much for complicating matters. Like you I will keep the supplies, in my case the 2 different DC's, separate, but they will both share ground, which, where possible, I'll use the frame for.
And I don't need to tell you, future-tense, what will happen, I'll tell you now: it will work. Did you miss my 'floating'-bit? A 'floating' stator is not connected to anything but itself, call it isolated or not-grounded. Between the 2 wires is an AC-potential created when the engine runs, and one can rectify this to DC, and then regulate it. After this you may do whatever you like with them, depending on reg-type you could even 'summate' them to create 24VDC, but I'll only join their grounds so as to get dual supplies of 12VDC, kept separate of course - each with their own battery, for each of which I've got a dedicated purpose.
You also guessed wrong about my battery, as not I but you mentioned LiPo - I don't even know what that is! Heard of TurnTech, an LFP-battery? Read here: http://turntechbattery.com/TurnTech%20Battery/FAQ.html
The 2.5Ah I've got, only 0.9 lbs, and will be hooked to the larger DC-circuit, including a plug which will enable my bike to crank others - neat, or what? Never mind neat though, we've got the big 5 here, it could be a lifesaver. The smaller circuit, including the fan, will have the NiCad - which will develop a memory of course. A simple switch overriding the thermostat will take care of that, and don't worry, I'll switch the engine off first.
And no, no Ricky Stator either, mine's an Electrosport-one, their newer type (their old one was indeed internally grounded, it did not float). Also no, I'll run a bogstandard H4 up front, fully roadworthy. Can buy a new one anywhere, not so with 100W's. Oh, yeah, I do run some additional lights, for indeed that 55W is a bit on the meagre side. Got two 10W Solstice LED's to help - well, 'help', they take over actually, that H4 does surprisingly little in comparison.
Just in case you're going to ask, why those?? We camp you see, I hate to mess in the dark, and that 2.5Ah battery will drive them for long enough. But also, quite like you refer to yourself, I'd hate to come even close to overloading the reg, as you've found out they don't like that. That's why I do have a lights-off switch, no need to cook anything during the hot days.
So - whilst I may be carrying a mini-blade fuse or 2, which I tend to carry for others exclusively, I'd suggest you carry spare regulators. However, if you will take advise then mount it/them on an aluminium sheet, a shaped-to-size heatsink, bolted to the plastic, non-conductive airbox-top. You may surprise yourself how much space can be saved by re-arranging all goodies this way, CDI included.

Also no, sorry, the opening of the RH-sidepanel is not the cheapest power-increase you can get. Drill dual dia-30mm holes each side of the rear-brake reservoir in the Left-hand side panel, no mesh needed, and witness it gaining almost as much as what an opened RH-panel will give you.
That is, if you keep the, in standard form for a reason unrestricted, air-path open


Happy riding Crypto, and remember that I was only giving BM basic KIS-advise, he asked for it because he does not know.


LOL, EDIT: I only read now that you tried grounding the frame, I though you asked me to let you know when I did ! You got suddenly around half of the DC-voltage didn't you?? Yah, read my wrong advice above I would say - I hate to say it but I told BM so! The reason for that is you've got both AC and DC, and those grounds may NOT be shared, as this will upset the DC-reg - you have to keep them floated.
Not so with dual DC-regs Crypto, at least if you've got floating coils - like I do, dunno the Ricky Stator.

BuRP wrote: Crypto,

Erm, how do I tell you this, eh, yes, I have done this before, quite a few times actually. Wrong guess.
Why do you think "You will be doing both in this situation.."?

I was referring to your charging circuit and your battery. Your battery may be getting over charged while riding and completely discharged from time to time without a dedicated charging circuit, which would be a very dangerous situation with a LiPo battery. However it appears you are using the LiFe (litium iron) batteries that I mentioned previously which are safer to use. But don't expect it's capacity to stick around long. I saw another thread where a guy took the LiPo battery out of a laptop for his brp, I wonder what happened in the end.

BuRP wrote: but they will both share ground, which, where possible, I'll use the frame for.

I have to give you that one. It has been a while since I messed with my system, but it seems like when I tried to ground my dc to the frame, while keeping the ac seperate (floating), the engine died (or maybe it was just a voltage drop) and I am certain my stator is floating. If it does work for you I may have to revist mine and see what is going on. I know I had concern about sharing a ground with the ignition system, so I kept the dc ground floating. I think my head was half way up my ass when I last dealt with that last. Either way, my system is no more complicated than yours. My engine is scatttered on the bench right now, otherwise I would go out and double check grounding the dc.

BuRP wrote: I'll run a bogstandard H4 up front, fully roadworthy. Can buy a new one anywhere, not so with 100W's. Oh, yeah, I do run some additional lights, for indeed that 55W is a bit on the meagre side. Got two 10W Solstice LED's to help

If i can't get a 100W, then I can down-grade to a 55w and keep riding; they will fit in the same cavity. 10W LEDs aren't very impressive when it comes to off-road driving, however they kick but for long life and power/lumens. HIDs still can't be beat, and they are extremely cheap now; ~$25 55w digital ballast and bulb. I still occasionally see trophy trucks and class 1 cars with LED light bars, but if you look closely you will still see a couple halogens or HIDs on there too, because the LEDs just don't reach out 3/4+ miles like the HIDs. My 100w halogen is nothing more than a day time running lamp that hopefully keeps idiots out of my way.

BuRP wrote:I'd hate to come even close to overloading the reg.... That's why I do have a lights-off switch, no need to cook anything during the hot days.

You may want to double check your undestanding of how a regulator works. From what I understand on the ac regs you can't actually over load the reg with the load (your lights, gps, dvd player and whatever other gadgets you ride with) it gets overloaded by stator output and sees the most heating when there is no load attached.. In a permanent magnet stator like we have, the reg's job is to shunt excessive voltage, so it is actually under more stress with no-load. I was under the assumption that the reg/rect units are the same except they have a rectifier integrated into them. So they are more prone to failure during the day when it is hot and no lights are on (my 150W failed on a ~100W coil because the HID is shut down during the day, even though it is an air flow). SO you may want to consider carrying a spare reg yourself. Another advantage of running ac to my halogen is that it sees ~18v at race speeds, and the higher powered ac circuits use minimal components (less failure).

BuRP wrote:which will enable my bike to crank others - neat, or what?

I would classify that as "what." You really plan on jump starting other people's bikes? IS it really a problem? I would rather give someone a push than remove seats and string out heavy gauge wires.

burp, now I am getting confused, I am getting my rect/reg tomorrow, also I have the rechargables D 1.5 volt batteries 8 pcs to make 2 tubes, I was thinking to get a pvc pipe and put 4 batteries on each tube, thread them and put a cap on each side, well hope it will work. Also I got all the fuses, the 10 amp (2 pcs) and the 1 amp for the gps. I could get the relay for the fan (I haven't got the fan, don't know what kind yet).
I am following the diagram from the link on advrider, hopefully tomorrow after work I can continue and finish it, the only thing I haven't found is the type of the bulb light for the head light and a socket, so please if you can give me this finals details so I can get over this mod and enjoy my bike.

Thanks,

IBM

You should be fine with what he told you, I was just a bit alarmed with the mention of lithium ion bats. You are going to want to test your voltage going to the bats and adjust the cells accordingly. Take the voltage going to the bats and divide it by the cell voltage. In your case you will end up with 12v packs, but you might be better off with 13.5v depending on what your stator/rect/reg puts out. Fyi, most 12v devices work upwards of 15.5v.

I also don't agree with rectifying power to run a light, I say it makes a weaker system, aparently some think its more simple.

http://www.rickystator.com/04technical/img/honda/Rectifier_Regulator.pdf

The fuses go as close to the source(rect/reg) as possible.

BM,

if I understand correctly you're going to string some cells in a pipe to make your own battery.
That's a neat solution, clever even - but not for this application.... vibrations! You will not be able to guarantee full contact at all times, I even would think it logical to expect intermittent contact, and THAT is going to be a problem! The reg won't like that at all, neither will any electronics you've got connected (eg GPS).
Why not buy the small packs sold? They're welded (spotwelded) together, and kept in position by a heatshrink wrapping (which you'd do best to add another). That is a decent thing, and most certainly it won't 'spike' due to loose/intermittent contacts. Not costly BM, and made for this purpose - get one?
Oh, and they're NiCad's - cycle them (discharge & immediately charge) once in awhile? They'll keep best that way.
This small pack, sized smaller than a pack of fags, will fit inbetween the subframe-rails right in front against the main frame, a perfect fit - and completely out of the way.

Headlight? Choose something which will suit you BM, there's a whole plethora out there, pick one you think is good for you, can't help you here as personal choice (+ money/budget) plays a role. However, what I would advice is that you, if you run/use the frame as Negative ('Earth'), run the neg-wire from the headlight to the frame itself, so do NOT connect on the forks/triple clamp or why. If you would the bearings/races would conduct this current, and they may not like that at all - so run a good gauge wire over this part.
You'll be fine if you follow that diagram BM, it is simplicity itself. On the fan, if you want/need one, now or in future, I'd incorporate the wiring already in what you're busy making. Search for the Spal 4" Puller fan, plenty sources for it on the net, that's the fan you want. I can send you (or anyone who wants it) a dxf-file you can take to a laser-cutter, so he can cut you a bracket that's a dead fit on your RH-radiator. PM me if you like one. Oh, NO 7G tanks then eh, this fan won't fit.
As an aside, how's your dash coming on?


Crypto,

indeed there are DC-regs out there that sink/shunt any surplus power off, a shitty concept if you ask me. Those I have don't work this way I think, however I will mount them as per said, on a quite large alu heatsink, with conductive paste inbetween even.
Such metal 'base' allows one to create tapped holes to mount all & sundry, the CDI for instance with an alu cradle, thus increasing the surface even more - and all this will vibrate least, if at all.
If I'm wrong, having the shitty-type regs, then no problem either: I've got dual 150W regs for a total of 150W max (100 + 50) - at max revs, if it will produce this much at all. This is actually what I meant with 'not even close to overcooking' the buggers. However, I think mine do work different, they only shunt-off the surplus potential of the current drawn, not of the total they can get from the stator.

Cranking others - I wish I could have done this on our last trip, a Varadero loaded with the kitchen sink had a buggered battery. It took us, we were 2 only (push-starting??), the midday, evening and best part of the night to get the bastid 20Km's further, at a safehouse, by means of a begged-for hired/arrested pickup so clapped-out that I'm sure you, living in a 1rst world, cannot even imagine: no alternator, just a few brakes, ropes and/or wire to keep the doors & bonnet on/closed, no lights, zero shocks, some glass missing etc etc. Another organized pickup came to fetch the next day, 500Km's home..... If I'd then have a battery I could spare - like this one on my Pig - it would have been plain sailing..... even if only for faultfinding, and then you don't need heavy gauge wires either. I've got a fan, it can, idling away, even charge the other if need be.
Punctures? I'll carry a small compressor, it's as big as a handpump - yeah, lazy I guess, but this is the 21rst century, I can, and I've got the battery anyway ;-)
Why not make life simple? A battery does, and if also a cap is present you can even remove it. Add that, when you (like BM & me) have the Baja Designs handlebar-switch, it also makes the wiring simpler then I genuinely fail to see the 'advantage' of running an additional AC circuit.

BM, if you can't decide on a headlight, check out ddmtuning.com. They have some pretty cool HID lights etc for cheap and good quality, but I guess your shopping preference is going to depend on where you are located. I use 8" PIAA housings, one converted to HID. There is no such thing as too much light when you are riding at night, unless you are oncoming traffic. If I had it to do again, I would buy a cheap but good quality housing and the $25 HID ballast and bulb. FIgure about $75 per light and it is every bit as powerful (or more most cases) as the $500-$800 HID kits. The only draw back is that you may not end up with an optimized reflector, but oh well, scattered light can be good too. If you want to get serious about lights, and it sounds like you just want it done, check out
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/content.php

As for batteries, I don't know that it matters much if you go NiCd or NiMh, though I would trust NiCd more. I have had the NiMh melt down on me in cordless drills. The NiCd will get weak and a memory over time because this is about the worst possible environment and system for batteries, but they will keep working for the most part. That is why I just used a capacitor. I too wanted lights when the bike was not running, but it isn't worth the hassel and risk for me. I always carry headlamps or a flashlight anyways. When I need to carry extra equipment like GPSs, laptop, 800-1200 MHz amplifier, etc. and I am out in the field for a long time I throw in a couple charged LiPo batteries and small charger. I can charge off my bike if I need to.

burp, you can check your regs to see if they are the shunt type pretty easily. Run the bike around with no load on the electrical and see if they produce heat, then try it with a full load and see if they get hotter or cooler. I check the ~$40 universal 150w reg/rect that seems to be so popular and it warmed up with the bike at a high idle and no-load, so I assume it is shunting some power, but it may just be idle current. I haven't checked my 175w one yet, but I am sure it is the same circuit with larger components.

Punctures? if I carry anything I carry a hand pump. Normally though if I get a flat I just ride a little slower, I will do anything to avoid pulling a tire in the field.

I have the same handlebar switch as you, but it just cost less because I didn't get it from bajadesigns, they have nothing that impresses me. I am not running an "aditional" AC circuit, YOU are running an additional rectifier. An AC circuit is more simple than the DC circuit and I trust it Waaaaaayyyyy more. Even if the reg goes, which I have never had happed, the lights will continue to work just with a shorter life span. I could have a battery, just like you, by switching out my cap. However, there is no reason to; I don't need the extra weight, the possibility of leakage, the possibility of fire, the fact that over time it will have no more capacity and possibly less than my capacitor, and the fact that batteries can internally short and put a huge strain on the charging system (rect/reg/stator). More electronics do not make things more simple, they make things more complicated.



BTW, I might live in a "first world," but that doesn't mean I don't see trucks like you dscribed, infact I used to own one. I started it with a chain saw actually.

I am stuck with the project this weekend I had a soccer tournament with one of my boys and also the canada post is on a 3 days a week strike so I guess that's why I haven't got myvapor tech yet, plus my reg/rect was supposed to be here Friday but the guy didn't send it so I may get it this week, hopefully the weekend I can continue, meantime I have a bunch of wires behind the light, Hope the cops don't stop me at all LOL.
So about the batteries, I don't think I will use these D bat, so the one you mentioned, what name should I search on google?
IBM

BuRP wrote:BM,

if I understand correctly you're going to string some cells in a pipe to make your own battery.
That's a neat solution, clever even - but not for this application.... vibrations! You will not be able to guarantee full contact at all times, I even would think it logical to expect intermittent contact, and THAT is going to be a problem! The reg won't like that at all, neither will any electronics you've got connected (eg GPS).
Why not buy the small packs sold? They're welded (spotwelded) together, and kept in position by a heatshrink wrapping (which you'd do best to add another). That is a decent thing, and most certainly it won't 'spike' due to loose/intermittent contacts. Not costly BM, and made for this purpose - get one?
Oh, and they're NiCad's - cycle them (discharge & immediately charge) once in awhile? They'll keep best that way.
This small pack, sized smaller than a pack of fags, will fit inbetween the subframe-rails right in front against the main frame, a perfect fit - and completely out of the way.

Headlight? Choose something which will suit you BM, there's a whole plethora out there, pick one you think is good for you, can't help you here as personal choice (+ money/budget) plays a role. However, what I would advice is that you, if you run/use the frame as Negative ('Earth'), run the neg-wire from the headlight to the frame itself, so do NOT connect on the forks/triple clamp or why. If you would the bearings/races would conduct this current, and they may not like that at all - so run a good gauge wire over this part.
You'll be fine if you follow that diagram BM, it is simplicity itself. On the fan, if you want/need one, now or in future, I'd incorporate the wiring already in what you're busy making. Search for the Spal 4" Puller fan, plenty sources for it on the net, that's the fan you want. I can send you (or anyone who wants it) a dxf-file you can take to a laser-cutter, so he can cut you a bracket that's a dead fit on your RH-radiator. PM me if you like one. Oh, NO 7G tanks then eh, this fan won't fit.
As an aside, how's your dash coming on?


Crypto,

indeed there are DC-regs out there that sink/shunt any surplus power off, a shitty concept if you ask me. Those I have don't work this way I think, however I will mount them as per said, on a quite large alu heatsink, with conductive paste inbetween even.
Such metal 'base' allows one to create tapped holes to mount all & sundry, the CDI for instance with an alu cradle, thus increasing the surface even more - and all this will vibrate least, if at all.
If I'm wrong, having the shitty-type regs, then no problem either: I've got dual 150W regs for a total of 150W max (100 + 50) - at max revs, if it will produce this much at all. This is actually what I meant with 'not even close to overcooking' the buggers. However, I think mine do work different, they only shunt-off the surplus potential of the current drawn, not of the total they can get from the stator.

Cranking others - I wish I could have done this on our last trip, a Varadero loaded with the kitchen sink had a buggered battery. It took us, we were 2 only (push-starting??), the midday, evening and best part of the night to get the bastid 20Km's further, at a safehouse, by means of a begged-for hired/arrested pickup so clapped-out that I'm sure you, living in a 1rst world, cannot even imagine: no alternator, just a few brakes, ropes and/or wire to keep the doors & bonnet on/closed, no lights, zero shocks, some glass missing etc etc. Another organized pickup came to fetch the next day, 500Km's home..... If I'd then have a battery I could spare - like this one on my Pig - it would have been plain sailing..... even if only for faultfinding, and then you don't need heavy gauge wires either. I've got a fan, it can, idling away, even charge the other if need be.
Punctures? I'll carry a small compressor, it's as big as a handpump - yeah, lazy I guess, but this is the 21rst century, I can, and I've got the battery anyway ;-)
Why not make life simple? A battery does, and if also a cap is present you can even remove it. Add that, when you (like BM & me) have the Baja Designs handlebar-switch, it also makes the wiring simpler then I genuinely fail to see the 'advantage' of running an additional AC circuit.

Hey Burp I forgot to asked you about the GPS 60Csx, I just got mine but don't know how to use it, I was reading the manual but still don't get it yet, on those GPS do you have a map vies like the regular ones on the car? do you need an extra map to be installed on it? Just wonder meantime I keep reading the manual LOL.

Thanks,

IBM

BuRP wrote:BM,

if I understand correctly you're going to string some cells in a pipe to make your own battery.
That's a neat solution, clever even - but not for this application.... vibrations! You will not be able to guarantee full contact at all times, I even would think it logical to expect intermittent contact, and THAT is going to be a problem! The reg won't like that at all, neither will any electronics you've got connected (eg GPS).
Why not buy the small packs sold? They're welded (spotwelded) together, and kept in position by a heatshrink wrapping (which you'd do best to add another). That is a decent thing, and most certainly it won't 'spike' due to loose/intermittent contacts. Not costly BM, and made for this purpose - get one?
Oh, and they're NiCad's - cycle them (discharge & immediately charge) once in awhile? They'll keep best that way.
This small pack, sized smaller than a pack of fags, will fit inbetween the subframe-rails right in front against the main frame, a perfect fit - and completely out of the way.

Headlight? Choose something which will suit you BM, there's a whole plethora out there, pick one you think is good for you, can't help you here as personal choice (+ money/budget) plays a role. However, what I would advice is that you, if you run/use the frame as Negative ('Earth'), run the neg-wire from the headlight to the frame itself, so do NOT connect on the forks/triple clamp or why. If you would the bearings/races would conduct this current, and they may not like that at all - so run a good gauge wire over this part.
You'll be fine if you follow that diagram BM, it is simplicity itself. On the fan, if you want/need one, now or in future, I'd incorporate the wiring already in what you're busy making. Search for the Spal 4" Puller fan, plenty sources for it on the net, that's the fan you want. I can send you (or anyone who wants it) a dxf-file you can take to a laser-cutter, so he can cut you a bracket that's a dead fit on your RH-radiator. PM me if you like one. Oh, NO 7G tanks then eh, this fan won't fit.
As an aside, how's your dash coming on?


Crypto,

indeed there are DC-regs out there that sink/shunt any surplus power off, a shitty concept if you ask me. Those I have don't work this way I think, however I will mount them as per said, on a quite large alu heatsink, with conductive paste inbetween even.
Such metal 'base' allows one to create tapped holes to mount all & sundry, the CDI for instance with an alu cradle, thus increasing the surface even more - and all this will vibrate least, if at all.
If I'm wrong, having the shitty-type regs, then no problem either: I've got dual 150W regs for a total of 150W max (100 + 50) - at max revs, if it will produce this much at all. This is actually what I meant with 'not even close to overcooking' the buggers. However, I think mine do work different, they only shunt-off the surplus potential of the current drawn, not of the total they can get from the stator.

Cranking others - I wish I could have done this on our last trip, a Varadero loaded with the kitchen sink had a buggered battery. It took us, we were 2 only (push-starting??), the midday, evening and best part of the night to get the bastid 20Km's further, at a safehouse, by means of a begged-for hired/arrested pickup so clapped-out that I'm sure you, living in a 1rst world, cannot even imagine: no alternator, just a few brakes, ropes and/or wire to keep the doors & bonnet on/closed, no lights, zero shocks, some glass missing etc etc. Another organized pickup came to fetch the next day, 500Km's home..... If I'd then have a battery I could spare - like this one on my Pig - it would have been plain sailing..... even if only for faultfinding, and then you don't need heavy gauge wires either. I've got a fan, it can, idling away, even charge the other if need be.
Punctures? I'll carry a small compressor, it's as big as a handpump - yeah, lazy I guess, but this is the 21rst century, I can, and I've got the battery anyway ;-)
Why not make life simple? A battery does, and if also a cap is present you can even remove it. Add that, when you (like BM & me) have the Baja Designs handlebar-switch, it also makes the wiring simpler then I genuinely fail to see the 'advantage' of running an additional AC circuit.

These are the batteries he mentioned; http://turntechbattery.com/TurnTech%20Battery/FAQ.html


I use the same gps most of the time. I had it mounted to my light rack but it didn't like the vibration. How are you mounting them? I made a custom mount and it worked, but I got to a point where I rarely used it and got rid of the mount. It really isn't a good idea for me to try and read the little screen while I ride.
For maps you need to buy or borrow the topo maps for where you ride. I am not sure, but you might be able to download them.

Btw, I used both 100k and 24k maps and prefer the 100k for their readability(less detail).

hello guys<
Well I got almost everything now, I am just waiting for the battery which I don't know where to install it! any one has some posible location?
Also the vapor came with the water temp sensor, which hose should I cut to put it on? I was looking and I think could be the one on the left hand side from the motor before it goes to the thermostat or tree? please just need to confirm before I start cutting hoses LOL. Soon I will have some pics of her with the Speedo and the new blinkers, I was thinking to get the heated grip since I am doing all the wiring now. what is the minimum wattage I can get them or should I said the Maximum Wattage ?

thanks Guys.

IBM

Bm, it sounds like you are getting close.

I remember seeing a baja designs kit that had a battery mounted on one of the radiators I think. I found room for my capacitor on top of the airbox under the frame rail, but I bet your battery is a bit bigger.

The only thing I can suggest is do some research before you cut any hoses for the temp sensor. I read a post from a guy who had done it that way and did not like it. when it came time to do it on a different bike he drilled and tapped the thermostat housing instead. I think it is less prone to failure.

BM,

that battery I will mount either on the gearbox behind the cylinder, or on the LHS against the cylinder. For the latter position I've already changed the clutch-cable bracket, I've moved it more inward.
Although this battery may be put flat I'll keep it upright, but that means you could put it anywhere you've got space - behind the headlight maybe? In any case you will have to find a, for you, suitable solution.
Hey, weren't you busy making a dash? Maybe there's space in there!

The Vapor's temp-sensor you best mount into the single water-outlet coming from the cylinder on the LHS. This is the hottest water hence this temp you want to know. It fits nicely in there, just hold it next to it & decide where you will cut the hose - keep in mind though the electric lead, you want to keep this away from the HT of the spark plug, and also, access to the plug should not be compromised.

Ok Guys,
Finally I am almost done, I have to modified my speedo cock pit since my battery hasn't arrive yet so I used a rechargable battery from kind of a drill gun 12 Volt 2 amp. so far it is good, tomorrow hopefully I will take for a ride and see how it does feel.
I installed the Vapor with the temp sensor, I have 4 lights to use on the vapor, I used already 2 for the blinkers, I want to use one more for the temp sensor so it will tell me if it is too hot (if it can be done, don't know how to do it) and the other for the parking lights, but it didn't work, any ideas Burp what to do here?
The last question and the most important, I did change the oil filter, nothing came out out of there a few drops, then I took the bolt from the Frame expecting to come all the oil out, nothing at all a couple of drops. Do we have a draing under neath the Bike? I could not find any plug.I checked the oil on cold and didn't even mark the minimum.
Well guys have a nice evening or should I say morning, LOL here is going to be 5 O'clock so I better go to sleep a bit, Hope tomorrow I figure the oil thing out so I can go for a ride.

Thanks Guys!

bikerman
you can place a minimum warning temp in the vapor (vapor lights up yellow if im right) + a extra warning when its gettin too hot (vapor lights up red) same light as the shift licht.
for the blinker the xrr only got one light, other 2 lights are for the normal light on or big light on. (on mine that is)

http://www.trailtech.net/media/instructions/computers/vapor/vapor_instructions.pdf

about youre oil

did you let the bike run for about 5 or 6 minutes @ idle before you let the oil out?
there is 1 bolt @ the left side of the engine (behind the shifter) + the one in the middle of the frame close above the skidplate (dont forget to check the little filter of dead in there)
when you check the oil cold you will never see some oil on the stick

be sure you ride the xr with at least 1,6/1,7 liter (clean) oil

BM,

burning the midnight oil hmm? Shows your determination, good I'd say.
My Vapor's got 2 lights only, you may have either a newer type or an accessory thingy with more lights. RTFM I'd say, I'm sure you know what that means As an aside, no idea why you want an idiot-light indicating you've switched on your parking light - come on now, that was a misprint? I'd rather have a 'low' and 'high' indicator for Temp & Revs. Blinkers is a good one though, I'm surely not the only one to forget to switch them off at times.
Oil: you either missed that this is a dry-sump engine or you forgot what that is/does, I'll explain. Any dry-sump engine carries its oil in a separate tank, this in contradiction to a 'normal' engine which carries the oil in the sump. The Pig's 'tank' is the aluminium frame, hence this 'tank' acts as a (good!) oil cooler. Two oilpumps are present, a pressure pump - taking oil from the tank and forcing it into the various points in the engine - and a scavenging pump - which sucks the sump dry and fills the tank. The latter pump is bigger (because it displaces air as well), and often its outlet is above the oil-level in the tank (dunno about the Pig's). In any case, the pressure-pump is directly connected tot he oil tank, and in the Pig's case it sits, level-wise, under it. That means that gravity, plus the always-present small leaks, will drain the oil tank empty over time - say over a certain time being parked, a day or more.
Where does that oil go to? Easy, into the engine, actually it 'seeks the sump', your engine will fill with oil. This oil, when you start your engine therefore you start the scavenging pump, will be pumped into the tank again, and only after some minutes of running the tank's level - the dipstick level - will be back to normal again. This is why Ricko mentions this, correctly so. Also, there's definitely a sump/engine drain plug present, indeed on the LHS, somewhere between the sprocket and generator. Undo this bolt and find all the oil that was "missing" after having been parked for a while.

Thanks Burp, I will do it tomorrow, I have to read my vapor and find out what that thing can do.

Where I can post some pics of my BRP so you can enjoy it guys!

IBM

Hell yea, and pls also from your dash, I'd like to see that!
And whilst you're at it, also a shot with the seat removed?
There's a sticky on the home page, bottomish, Focker explains how2post pics. It seems you have to download them first on some site so that you can 'link' to them in your post, so not directly from your own PC.
You guys are lucky, summer now, riding time!!!!

ok Guys,
I finished everything and now I was going to start my bike and doesn't star, I can see the head light goes on when I kick it so means it is power there, What could be wrong?

I have the pics ready to show them to you guys, will try to do it later on.

Thanks,

IBM

Guys I have the pics uploaded on the kodak gallery, who ever wants to see the pics I am able to send an invitation by email to share them. please who ever wants to see them send me your email.

Thanks,

IBM

http://imageshack.us/
use this site to upload the pictures and place the link here with the [ img]picture link here[ /img] tag but without the spaces

is the bike starting up already?
check the fuel line from the tank to the carb if its not bend.

Nope Ricko,

Imageshack requires you to keep your account updated, but they actually want you to pay - which you can also do.
So: stuff them, don't ever use them, sanction them by totally ignoring them, as ONLY such will drive the point home: FREE image hosting, and NOT dependant on your regular maintenance of your account (ie forever!).
They used to do this, but not anymore, we've recently seen 'frozen frogs within icecubes' - so goodbye Imageshack, good luck in your endeavours!
Off to other sites, and Achile's found one. Even if you have to pay, rather pay another but not Imageshack! FREEware & FREEsites, FREEhosting, this is the way to go, stuff/boycott any sites changing from FREE to paid!!!!

Well guys, I finally got the bike running, I have to put back the original stator and it took only 1 crank to get her running, then I put back the new ricky stator and got her running, that's was wierd! but don't care it's running now!

before is used photobucket for free but they bullshit with temp picture not availlable and shit like that so i moved to imageshack and it workes fine for me and still free, i never pay for programs, dvds, music or whatever

google is my friend

Hello Rikco,
I have my vapor running but I do have a question about the set up on it, everything is working fine, I set up my wheel size so my speedo is working fine, the only thing I am not getting any reading from my temp sensor only shows ----- like this, and I plug it in, installed on the left side before the thermostat. what could be wrong? I set up high temp around 80 Celcius and danger 90 celcius, are these setting ok? The air temp is working fine.
Also I change my plug, and I noticed that when I am going around 80 to 100 km/h and let go the throttle I got backfire, I set up the gap on the plug around 0.032 Should I open a bit more may be to 0.043?

Thanks for the input guys.

mine does the same when the engine is off, hit the button in the middle 1 time and it give you the engine temp
it takes about 2 minutes of riding before you see the temp.
i got the high @ 90C and danger @ 100C
80C you get verry soon.

BM,

backfiring has zero to do with the plug's gap, re-set it to the correct gap.
Backfiring is normal up to some extent, even if you have a perfectly sealed exhaust - but I bet yours leaks a bit of air, probably at the header/muffler connection. If that bothers you a thin smear if silicon probably will cure it.