Harness from a 650L fit 650R ?

The vapor comes with a temp sensor, do we have to drill the radiator and make some thread to install it? just trying to see ahead of time before I get the Vapor, waiting for it.

IBM

BuRP wrote:BM,

Get yourself the BajaDesigns handlebar-switch. One switch does it all, you'll get: ignition off, kill switch (these are 2 different functions), hooter, indicators with push-return, lights: park, low & high (no 'off') with a small LED for highbeam.
This all connects with 1 connector (plus dual bullets for ignition) so you've got the neatest way of wiring.
This is a good unit but heed 1 warning: do not use the switches for high-current applications (like your headlights), they'll wear or burn >> so use a relay instead.
Add two brakelight-switches & that's it!

The Vapor has its own 4 connectors, you know what to do there.
One word of advice: if at all possible mount the rect/reg (got DC I presume?) on some aluminium plate or something, as this will help it too cool (call it a heatsink if you like).

Burp the one I got doesn't have the ignition off, only the kill switch look at it here:

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp;jsessionid=5EKSIKD2A2GSBLA0WTISM4VMDK0OWIV0?store=&skuId=211388

I got the Key switch from an XR650L, I am going to try to make it work on mine, I think it can be done, can it be?

BM

BuRP wrote:BM,

Get yourself the BajaDesigns handlebar-switch. One switch does it all, you'll get: ignition off, kill switch (these are 2 different functions), hooter, indicators with push-return, lights: park, low & high (no 'off') with a small LED for highbeam.
This all connects with 1 connector (plus dual bullets for ignition) so you've got the neatest way of wiring.
This is a good unit but heed 1 warning: do not use the switches for high-current applications (like your headlights), they'll wear or burn >> so use a relay instead.
Add two brakelight-switches & that's it!

The Vapor has its own 4 connectors, you know what to do there.
One word of advice: if at all possible mount the rect/reg (got DC I presume?) on some aluminium plate or something, as this will help it too cool (call it a heatsink if you like).

Hey BM why did you spend so much on the switch ?, I got an mint XR400 switch for £24 from ebay.
You will only need the rectifier for the horn, I struggled to get a AC horn workign good enough without changing to DC.
Key switch can be added easily only 2 wires and a little bracket.

BM,

Yes, for the temp-sensor of the Vapor you'll have to get a pneumatic chisel to chop 1 half of a radiator cap off - wait, joke , no, they'll send you a very neat in-line adaptor so you can mount it in the waterhose leaving the engine, it takes a knife & 2 hoseclamps.

That reg you're getting, is that a rectifier/regulator or just a regulator, like in all AC?
If so that makes life difficult - hooter, relays etc, and any LED's will glow half-mast so to speak. I've noticed lotsa people keeping AC..... what for? DC's lots easier to get stuff for, simply because all bike/cars/trucks have DC except for a few offroad bikes. With AC you'll have to fiddle more, like Maus says, a rect for the hooter - got AC relays?

That switch you got does indeed have an ignition-off switch, not only the kill-trigger. Slide the lightswitch to 'dot' and it'll die - and wont' start either then.

On key-switches following. Those with 2 wires only are fine to kill the engine, but for DC applications (with battery!!) this is not enough. I've got one with 4 wires (dual circuits) which simultaneously 'opens' the ignition (engine will run) and 'closes' the DC circuit (all accessories will work).
If you keep all AC the first one is fine, but you'll need to get some AC-relays..... never seen them but they exist is seems.

So what you are saying I should better order the rectifier from ricky stator and keep the ac regulator too? So how I will have both currents ac and DC? Is it possible?

Er, uh, well, NO BM,

I'm not saying that at all!
I prefer short, slim, buxom brunettes, with legs up to heaven and an attitude to match, but a friend of mine prefers rounded blondes, not too intelligent & no big earners so he can impress then easier
Geez, even know a guy who prefers a Suz, he likes it yellow!

Tastes differ, all I'm saying is that going all-AC defies my logic, and I won't do it.
You may do precisely that what you want, prefer, like, and, although I'd ask a few Q's, that includes full-on HT even, as your argument may be that you like to keep the conductors thin!

There's a reason for it all, and mine is to KIS - which I (like in me, moi!) cannot do as I've got dual outputs, but have decided I'll go dual-DC.

And, in my opinion - only mine! - for you it's easiest to reg/rect the lot to DC, add at least a cap if not a small batt also, and just connect the lot using a few fuses & relays >> finished!
But, because you cannot do that so simply now, I was wondering why some chaps keep AC, that is basically all.

Edit:
Yes, is possible, but I (me, moi!) fail to see any advantage of doing this.
If you would you'd need dual reg's for starters, but crucially you must keep the grounds separate then!!
A single rect/reg will solve ALL of the drawbacks, and you'd use the frame as ground (assumed the stator is not grounded!) for the smaller consumers (not the large one's in the steering assy, your bearings may not like that!).

Ok BuRP, I guess I am going to return the regulator and order a reg/rectifier, I want to make it simple like you said. I am calling tomorrow Ricky Stator and have them ship me a new reg/rect and I will send them back the reg.

Thanks for the heads up, what kind of fuses did you use on yours? is there any fuse box small for bikes? any where I should be looking for? about the battery can I use a rechargeble battery from those remote control cars? just guessing, I don't think we have the room to put an actual bike battery in there.

Anxius to get her ready to ride! GSSSS

IBM

Going back to fuses Honda supplied the 650R without any fuses for a reason they don't need them, I agree if your hanging non standard equipment on the loom then a small inline fuse won't do any harm see below.



Still think your making the whole wiring a big deal, I knwo you have the stator now but I would have gone down the swapping loom / stator for a UK spec would have been easier, everythign just plugs in and works no hassle.
Good luck with the upgrade and post sme pictures as you go along.

Mauser,

H did not put fuses on because this is merely a homologation model for enabling it to be raced: KIS (2 globes only, nothing else) & cheap & light.... and also, in the knowledge that anyone buying it will convert it fully for racing. Hence us being able to buy so much for it, still, although most if not all convert to DS.
Your European model (same like Ozzi I think) has just a bit more but still, this is minimal stuff. More importantly though they're in the minority, the Cal-spec seems to have been sold most (2 globes, that's it).
Without fuse(s) short anything and the reg will fry, even with only 40W capacity - thanks but no thanks!
Put a big stator on and you need to think of protection - fuses are precisely that, and cheap also.


BM,

find a good auto-electrical shop/workshop, and scratch around for a small/tiny fusebox. You'll find them in 2 types, with a common 'rail' (a single supply) and with independent fuses (you can do what you like). I prefer the latter, but have not yet found a small-enough unit.
In-line fuses can work too, they're small also, but I will only use them if really needed, as accessibility often is a problem (want to take the tank off on the track? Not me ). If you're going to use them put them there where you can get to them!

Also, several batteries exist, The 'model-plane' thing you mention I've got too, it is a NiCad-pack. NiCad's have a memory so I will drain them regularly (by using the fan), but otherwise they're fine.
Small LeadAcid's exist also, sealed units, see what you want - but need?
I want them for fan & GPS, lights even (camping!), but if you don't have or want any of this than a cap will do fine - which saves you the hassles of finding space for a battery, one needs to get creative here.
The small NiCad-pack will fit under the seat, right in front, inbetween/across the frame, a perfect fit. Build a small support, zip-tie or tape to keep it in place.
Do not mount too much stuff (or anything?) at the back, against the rear fender, as this is an airway where the Pig breaths through! Have a look where the air must go into the airbox, you'll see what I mean, you don't want to choke the engine by blocking this path. Hey, if you've got the opened sidepanel then no problem, but if not take care here.

1 single fuse could cover the bike ?, 200watt stator @ 12 volts = 16.6 amps, simply add a fuse maybe 15 amp that way your stator can never fry , you do make things complicated Burp . Not sure what you mean by minimal stuff ?. they come with all lights including parking, indicators and horn; even my ZX12-R doesn't have anything else lol.
I know you want your heated grips to keep warm and your sat nav but come on he don't need batteries or loads of fuses

Oh Yes Mauser,

your ZX12 (droooooll.........) has got something extra: a battery & fuses - and, doesn't it have an accessory plug also? Heated grips?
Yes, a single big fuse can do it all. Mind though, NOTHING will work when it blows due to a short. If you're happy with that go for it, but I'd rather keep most functions well. And, eh, well, 15A through a Vapor for instance will fry it before the fuse goes.....

On the SatNav Mauser (nudge nudge ), I wish you would visit here - genuine, you're a good bloke. I'll take you to Leshotu (rocky mountains), Namibia (sand, endless sand) or Mozambique (flattish woods, sandy), Botswana (bushveld)... nah, too much dangerous game, or even in our local semi-desert, the Karoo - oh, you want smaller, OK, the Klein Karoo (small karoo, less 'deserty'). We'll pretend to be out of fuel, and you, operating my Garmin (with a Garmin map!), will then tell me where to go for the nearest fuel...... But that's just measly fuel, what about a hospital?? Mauser, have a look on the map and see how BIG this country is: cut all tentacles off Europe, and what's left is about what's above! Then add only 45M people, however the bulk in just a handful of cities, and you end up with wide open deserted country!
Oh, and the Garmin map is useless, you'll want Tracks for Africa, especially offroad, you want the goat-traks shown!
Anywhere in Europe I'd not even put a bigger tank on, let alone ride with a GPS - but heated grips would be a must then

Ahhh fair point about the Vapour thingy I forgot about that , just bang a small 0.5amp fuse inline for the supply to it . Yeah you live in a massive country and I guess you need the larger Acerbis tank ?, standard tank wouldn't get you far lol not sure if I could stand the hot weather where you live....in the UK we get a few hot days a year 90's tops .

I got two tanks, IMS 7G & 4.6G (or 4.3?). Depending on the trip ahead I'll switch them, and the larger one I've equipped with auto-shutoff quick-connect couplings to make taking off a doddle. The Spal-fan won't fit under the bigger one but a slimline computerfan does (so I bought 4 of them in case they don't last ), will post some pics when it's all finished.
The Vapor is not a 'nice to have' but it gives me a speedo, odo, tacho, engine-temp all in one, and especially the latter I think is important. And, if ever stopped, a remote chance in itself, I can point out that that thingy actually is a speedo.

Bikerman,
found a good wiring diagram here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421789&page=34
It caters for a lot, both AC & DC, even a relay for a fan, and as a bonus it's colour-coded. My advice is to print it, scratch out what you don't want/need, and add what you need which isn't there - it makes for a very nice basis to work from.
That fan-relay I think is funny 'coz most temp-switches will switch the required current direct, and won't be bothered with a measly 3Amps of the Spal - but, it ain't wrong to do it! I would change to use relays (yip, two) for the headlight, but mind, only when you're mounting something which really draws juice, say a 100W or more. The switch you see, that's the weakest link here - again, not wrong but you could do better. And yes, I realize it's AC (won't arc as bad as DC), but current is current.
Mind/Note the key-switch! It is a dual-throw switch (4 wires) which I've described above - because it has a battery on the DC-side, and you want this power-source off when you pull the key. If you won't have a battery but a cap then this switch may be the 2-wire type.
Hope this helps Mate?

Good find on the drawing Bart, worth it's weight in gold when your trying to re-wire a bike

Thank you guys, some how i found the same drawing a couples of night before and save it thanks anyway! I manage to order the reg/rectifier today so I am waiting now for this part so I can start doing my wiring, meantime I have the aluminum angle for the back turn signal, I am trying to make a small dash board froma plexiglass, it is like an acrilic clear piece may be cut and fit it where the odometer is right now and make all the holes for the key and the 12 volt outlet and the vapor, don't know what else I can fit there, I will see when I get all my parts and design what I need there. I am thinking to put a rechargable battery or capacitor, BuRP what is the diference in the 2 of these? Which is better, I know bla bla bla you prefer kissing, or blondies may be brunnetes LOL! but I just want to have ideas from people already have and if it is working good.

Thanks,

I am sorry I haven't got time to send you the manual yet but I will promise!

IBM

BuRP wrote:I got two tanks, IMS 7G & 4.6G (or 4.3?). Depending on the trip ahead I'll switch them, and the larger one I've equipped with auto-shutoff quick-connect couplings to make taking off a doddle. The Spal-fan won't fit under the bigger one but a slimline computerfan does (so I bought 4 of them in case they don't last ), will post some pics when it's all finished.
The Vapor is not a 'nice to have' but it gives me a speedo, odo, tacho, engine-temp all in one, and especially the latter I think is important. And, if ever stopped, a remote chance in itself, I can point out that that thingy actually is a speedo.

Bikerman,
found a good wiring diagram here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421789&page=34
It caters for a lot, both AC & DC, even a relay for a fan, and as a bonus it's colour-coded. My advice is to print it, scratch out what you don't want/need, and add what you need which isn't there - it makes for a very nice basis to work from.
That fan-relay I think is funny 'coz most temp-switches will switch the required current direct, and won't be bothered with a measly 3Amps of the Spal - but, it ain't wrong to do it! I would change to use relays (yip, two) for the headlight, but mind, only when you're mounting something which really draws juice, say a 100W or more. The switch you see, that's the weakest link here - again, not wrong but you could do better. And yes, I realize it's AC (won't arc as bad as DC), but current is current.
Mind/Note the key-switch! It is a dual-throw switch (4 wires) which I've described above - because it has a battery on the DC-side, and you want this power-source off when you pull the key. If you won't have a battery but a cap then this switch may be the 2-wire type.
Hope this helps Mate?

BM,

Obviously the main diff between batt & cap is that a batt will store energy hence you can use it later, for lights or GPS or something. But yes, a cap also stores, however for very short times only.
Your stator produces AC, a sine-wave going through 0 (volt!) all the time, I'm sure you know this. 0 is also zero energy then, which means zero current: example, a light will flicker on/off/on/... etc. At high-enough frequencies you won't notice anything of this, but electronics do, they will definitely 'see' this erratic signal.
An AC-reg could not care less, you're better off telling someone who cares .
A DC-reg does however: after every zero-crossing it has to start 'regulating' again, if I may rape an analogy same like you having to start judging how much air you can inhale into your lungs every time you breath.
Add a capacitor, an energy storage-device, onto the regulated output-side (DC-side) - note that a batt behaves (almost!) same. Such will keep the energy-flow to the consumers more constant, and most certainly it will lessen the flickering of a light..... if it is big enough, meaning if the energy stored (the capacity) is sufficient.
Few things electrical care about a 'pulsing' DC though, but electronic things do - your regulator being the first in line, literally so. That is why you'd do best to add a cap as a minimum, or a battery.

Here's where my brunette comes in (LOL), because having both is better.... after all, I didn't say I hate blondes now did I?
Why? A cap is much quicker than a battery, and therefore having both would give you the best of both. But no worries, just a cap is fine, and lightest too. But, I want to be able to use my lights at night, when parked, and therefore I want a battery.
On caps, they come in size (capacity) but also have a Voltage-rating (their resistance to block a certain potential). You want a 50 VDC rated cap (I think that 25VDC is cutting it too fine, but that's just me), which will give you enough safety-margin for spikes (always present in a system), meaning it will last.
Capacity-wise you want a lot, thousands of microFarads, or some whole Farads if you've got the space (and money!). Search the Net (don't have figures here), but a thing the size of a medium-sized pill-box (they're round cylinder-shaped) is what you want - again, rated at 50VDC. Oh, you want an electrolytic cap, one with a + and a - terminal! These caps are are polarized, they must (like a battery) be connected correct supply & ground wise.
Terminal-wise get something proper, use thickish wires between reg & cap, and make sure the terminations are solid, soldering is not a bad option.

Thank you BuRP,
I am working on my speedo if you see my avatar there is a preview on cardboard, I am going to do it on S.S. Aluminum really thin onemay be sch 5 or 10 I am not sure will measure later. but I have a question about the 2 cable from the clutch and the decompression lever, should I just push them down and leave them against the speedo or should I make a cut on the new speedo plate? I really wouldn't like to do the cut but how bad is for the cables to be underpressure? I think I will have enough room for the power outlet and the ignition key and the trail tech. I haven't gotten my trail tech yet so I don't know what the measurement are. Should I use some sort of rubber bushing when I mount the trail tech or just mount it on top of the Aluminum plate?

well good night and thanks for all the support, I think I will have a nice BR running on the street of Canada thanks to all of you guys!

IBM

BuRP wrote:BM,

Obviously the main diff between batt & cap is that a batt will store energy hence you can use it later, for lights or GPS or something. But yes, a cap also stores, however for very short times only.
Your stator produces AC, a sine-wave going through 0 (volt!) all the time, I'm sure you know this. 0 is also zero energy then, which means zero current: example, a light will flicker on/off/on/... etc. At high-enough frequencies you won't notice anything of this, but electronics do, they will definitely 'see' this erratic signal.
An AC-reg could not care less, you're better off telling someone who cares .
A DC-reg does however: after every zero-crossing it has to start 'regulating' again, if I may rape an analogy same like you having to start judging how much air you can inhale into your lungs every time you breath.
Add a capacitor, an energy storage-device, onto the regulated output-side (DC-side) - note that a batt behaves (almost!) same. Such will keep the energy-flow to the consumers more constant, and most certainly it will lessen the flickering of a light..... if it is big enough, meaning if the energy stored (the capacity) is sufficient.
Few things electrical care about a 'pulsing' DC though, but electronic things do - your regulator being the first in line, literally so. That is why you'd do best to add a cap as a minimum, or a battery.

Here's where my brunette comes in (LOL), because having both is better.... after all, I didn't say I hate blondes now did I?
Why? A cap is much quicker than a battery, and therefore having both would give you the best of both. But no worries, just a cap is fine, and lightest too. But, I want to be able to use my lights at night, when parked, and therefore I want a battery.
On caps, they come in size (capacity) but also have a Voltage-rating (their resistance to block a certain potential). You want a 50 VDC rated cap (I think that 25VDC is cutting it too fine, but that's just me), which will give you enough safety-margin for spikes (always present in a system), meaning it will last.
Capacity-wise you want a lot, thousands of microFarads, or some whole Farads if you've got the space (and money!). Search the Net (don't have figures here), but a thing the size of a medium-sized pill-box (they're round cylinder-shaped) is what you want - again, rated at 50VDC. Oh, you want an electrolytic cap, one with a + and a - terminal! These caps are are polarized, they must (like a battery) be connected correct supply & ground wise.
Terminal-wise get something proper, use thickish wires between reg & cap, and make sure the terminations are solid, soldering is not a bad option.

Ah, wait, no, nononono, you are the Dashboard-Designer here BM, so you better make it work!

Seriously though, have you sorted out your bar-height already? Taller people complain about this, they need/want more height of the bars (especially when standing), and getting the stuff for this I'd do first before I'd tackle a dash. Oh ya, steering damper - got one, want one? Do this first, and, when you're finished, you may find you want/need (I did) longer-than-standard cables (throttle, clutch & decomp)!
And then you can accurately measure what you need, and order accordingly!

I'd not restrict these (any!) cables too much though, especially not when turning the bars between the stops, as doing such will likely cause wear or chafing of the outer cable. If a cutout will help you then fine, just watch what they'll do when turning. Oh, mount a large grommet inside it if possible, or have a nylon bush made (same like the one the fr-brake line runs through, just bigger - dual cables)?

On the Vapor, it is quite small - neat but small. Mount it by running the small bolts through rubber bushes, it's what their own 'dash' does, the billet-thingy. That probably means that it'll be easiest mounted on top of your dash-face, but you'll see when it arrives.
On this, 4 cables - of which the speedo's pickup is thickest - will connect to it. Say, you're not going to run and Vapor and std-speedo are you?????? Some do, and I've never seen the "benefit" if this, just the uglyness! Hey, it's your bike BM, do as you please

Ok Guys I start my project last night, I already mounted my rear blinkers, mirror, switch for the blinkers (not wired yet since when I did order the vapor I make a mistake and pay for the Vapor lights, bulb blablabla, it wasn't the computer (Sh&*%$>>) so now I have to wait for the vapor computer maybe another week but anyways I am waiting for the rectifier also, I did my tail light, nice fit and re-used the same originals plugs so water can not go inside the tail lamp, theonly thing is not enough juice to light it up bright since it is working with the original stator and regulator which is AC. Burp I have a question, there is only 1 red wire left wich is for the brake so I have 2 single banjo hyd switches, do I have to piggy tail this red wire to go to the rear and the front switches? also there is 2 terminals on each switch how do I do this wiring, Can you please draw me a small pic on a piece of paper and send it to me? please let me know.
Thanks,
IBM

Nope, no can do, no idea, trial & error will get you there, but charge the battery first!
"Up in smoke" was a good movie, you might well do a repeat this way LOL
OK, here goes, no paper:
- take a supply (a feed, the +) from a fuse and route it to EACH brake-switch, so do a 'Y' somewhere. That takes care of 1 pin of each switch.
- connect the other pin of each switch (oh, doesn't matter which pin you choose), as you say piggy-tail (or Y), to the brakelight-wire (you say it's a red one).
- the ground is already connected, your rear-light works (the brakelight uses the same ground).
Now, as each switch will 'make' a contact (they are normally open one's, which once activated become closed) when you brake the circuit is completed, the globe will burn.

But, BM, this diagram is represented by the blue lines in the schematics of the link above.
Note the supply comes from the double-throw ignition switch (and gets it from a fuse!) because this system's got a battery. If no battery is used just hook it up to a fuse, same thing.
Goodluck, you seem to be busy now. Post a piccie when finished eh?
Cheers!

Ok Thanks Burp, so I will check which supply I will take it from and add a fuse and then do the Y to supply both banjo switches then the other end of the banjo will join together (another Y) so it will ended up in the brake light wire (the red one) in my case.
I am going to get some fuses, some nice wire covers and nice crimps terminals to see at least get this one done, then I will jump to the signal horn blinkers switch.

Thanks!

IBM

So I scanned this thread and notice some errors in design being suggested. Rather than point out everything I wouldn't do, I will just tell you what I did.

Got Ricky Stator 200W.
Split the coils, 100w each.
One runs the ac 100W halogen, regulated.
The other runs through a 175W rectifier/reg, then feeds the 55W HID and leds (turn, break, etc)
Do not use fuses, use self resetting circuit breakers, they look and work just like a fuse, but you won't have to tear your seat off everytime it blows.
I also use a capacitor, NOT A BATTERY (unless you do want a fire or leakage), to clean up the system. A large cap such as those used for motor starts or car audio systems will work. Mine is about 1.5" diamter and about 3" long and tucks in above the aircleaner intake.
Cheap multi switch ~$15 from RMATV.

Build your own harness, do not adapt one. You will save money and understand how it works when you have a problem.

You can PM me any questions.


And finally, don'tr

BM,

that sound purrrrfect. I'd use the same fuse to power the blinkers from, as these fall in the same class of 'users', low current & not very crucial function (for the bike to function that is, as I regard a brakelight as a lifesaver!).


Crypto,

you're a bit cryptic in your post, especially when you hint at suggested errors in design!
"fire or leakage", "not a battery", "resetting breakers", "AC plus DC, both regulated" ....... sounds to me you have learned by lotsa trials & errors, plus you like to complicate things.
You suggest to keep an AC loop, the only reason for which is a bit higher efficiency. But you also suggest a 200W stator, in other words PLENTY of power (which we both know, I hope at least, this stator will struggle to produce, it will be closer to 150W). I'd rect/regulate the lot, KIS! Pls tell us the advantage of keeping AC with this setup?
It definitely cannot be the requirement of having to keep separate grounds plus to complicate the switchgear, which means your loom(s) have to be thicker, meaning they will fatigue easier due to bending, around the steering stem for instance.
Also, by all means use auto-resetting MCB's/breakers or why, but this ain't a submarine, this is a bike. But more importantly, these things, for this purpose at least, will 'mask' a problem more than they do good. If a fuse blows (or breaker trips) then there's a real problem - which needs to be fixed! At least, I will decide if it needs fixing, and when I want to fix it, as it all depends on the importance of the function disabled. An auto-resetter will attempt to reconnect ad infinitum, actually quite bad for the system itself - and you mentioned fires?

I agree with you though on building one's own harness. I doubt it will save money (assumed proper, decent materials are used) but the inherent knowledge is the crucial part here, one will know where/what to look /for.


I will use TWO batteries! Got dual stator-out's, both floating, will DC both, use frame as ground (so joined at the hip, least wires), use a small NiCad-pack (dis-chargeable by fan-override) + a larger (cranking capacity) Lithium/Ion pack for lights & pwr-socket, and will have a set of fuses incorporating spares-storage. Oh, lotsa LED's too, only the 55W (main) + 35W (h/grips) are actually pulling amps. Got a ~170W stator, won't use even close to max (which, in real life, is about 120W).
Least of wires, good buffering/smoothing, accessory power aplenty, VERY little additional weight, and absolutely safe as houses, no idea where your 'fire'-idea comes from.
My reason for this all: I want the stored power, the battery, but as said when one does not need this then go for a cap: little bit less cluttered, and a little lighter. Oh, Crypto, the location of your cap restricts the air-path your intake-air takes, you'd do best to relocate it (unless you've got an opened side-cover?).

Let me guess, you haven't done this before?

First off, let's talk about LiPo batteries, of which I have a few (66Ah @ 14.8v) including one I bought to put on my brp to run HIDs (14.8V 1.2Ah). LiPo are great for high discharge but are relatively fragile; they cannot tolerate being over charged or complete discharge. NiCd and NiMh don't like it either, but are more able to handle it. The best would be LiFe. You will be doing both in this situation unless you run a dedicated charger, and you tell me I'm complicated?

While I have yet to witness it, there are plently of reports of lipo created fires; google it. Assuming this potential and the potential of me to burn up the desert or forest I chose not to run a lipo. I understand that I may have to pay landowners for damages and a type-1 heli-tanker is $12k/hr. So you may want to remove the VIN and case number off your bike.

Why run a AC loop? Do you have a dual output stator like Ricky makes? Have you read Rickystator's opinion on the subject? I run an ac loop to my single 100w halogen because it is more efficient (much brighter lights) and because it is the simplist thing to do. It is only two wires, so don't get over whelmed. Because it is ac, the wires don't need to be huge and there isn't much loss or heating. Of-course mine doesn't turn off as there is no switch to mess with. This a combined with the HID to offer some redundency for night rides. I assume you are running a 200w rectifier? I didn't want to bother with rectifying 100w if I didn't have to. I already burned up the universal 150w reg/rect, and bought a 175w (I think). If this one goes I will be building my own.

And yeh, the capacitor does sit in the air path to the filter, and so does my reg/rect for good cooling.
And yes I did punch out the side panel, it is the cheapest power increase I have.

And about the fuses, make sure you carry lots of extras.

Oh yeh, and I tried grounding to the frame. Let me know what happens. Thanks.

Crypto,

Erm, how do I tell you this, eh, yes, I have done this before, quite a few times actually. Wrong guess.
Why do you think "You will be doing both in this situation.."? I wonder because I won't, but yes, I indeed will run dual regs - because I HAVE to. As an aside, that's exactly same like you do, you got two too, so so much for complicating matters. Like you I will keep the supplies, in my case the 2 different DC's, separate, but they will both share ground, which, where possible, I'll use the frame for.
And I don't need to tell you, future-tense, what will happen, I'll tell you now: it will work. Did you miss my 'floating'-bit? A 'floating' stator is not connected to anything but itself, call it isolated or not-grounded. Between the 2 wires is an AC-potential created when the engine runs, and one can rectify this to DC, and then regulate it. After this you may do whatever you like with them, depending on reg-type you could even 'summate' them to create 24VDC, but I'll only join their grounds so as to get dual supplies of 12VDC, kept separate of course - each with their own battery, for each of which I've got a dedicated purpose.
You also guessed wrong about my battery, as not I but you mentioned LiPo - I don't even know what that is! Heard of TurnTech, an LFP-battery? Read here: http://turntechbattery.com/TurnTech%20Battery/FAQ.html
The 2.5Ah I've got, only 0.9 lbs, and will be hooked to the larger DC-circuit, including a plug which will enable my bike to crank others - neat, or what? Never mind neat though, we've got the big 5 here, it could be a lifesaver. The smaller circuit, including the fan, will have the NiCad - which will develop a memory of course. A simple switch overriding the thermostat will take care of that, and don't worry, I'll switch the engine off first.
And no, no Ricky Stator either, mine's an Electrosport-one, their newer type (their old one was indeed internally grounded, it did not float). Also no, I'll run a bogstandard H4 up front, fully roadworthy. Can buy a new one anywhere, not so with 100W's. Oh, yeah, I do run some additional lights, for indeed that 55W is a bit on the meagre side. Got two 10W Solstice LED's to help - well, 'help', they take over actually, that H4 does surprisingly little in comparison.
Just in case you're going to ask, why those?? We camp you see, I hate to mess in the dark, and that 2.5Ah battery will drive them for long enough. But also, quite like you refer to yourself, I'd hate to come even close to overloading the reg, as you've found out they don't like that. That's why I do have a lights-off switch, no need to cook anything during the hot days.
So - whilst I may be carrying a mini-blade fuse or 2, which I tend to carry for others exclusively, I'd suggest you carry spare regulators. However, if you will take advise then mount it/them on an aluminium sheet, a shaped-to-size heatsink, bolted to the plastic, non-conductive airbox-top. You may surprise yourself how much space can be saved by re-arranging all goodies this way, CDI included.

Also no, sorry, the opening of the RH-sidepanel is not the cheapest power-increase you can get. Drill dual dia-30mm holes each side of the rear-brake reservoir in the Left-hand side panel, no mesh needed, and witness it gaining almost as much as what an opened RH-panel will give you.
That is, if you keep the, in standard form for a reason unrestricted, air-path open


Happy riding Crypto, and remember that I was only giving BM basic KIS-advise, he asked for it because he does not know.


LOL, EDIT: I only read now that you tried grounding the frame, I though you asked me to let you know when I did ! You got suddenly around half of the DC-voltage didn't you?? Yah, read my wrong advice above I would say - I hate to say it but I told BM so! The reason for that is you've got both AC and DC, and those grounds may NOT be shared, as this will upset the DC-reg - you have to keep them floated.
Not so with dual DC-regs Crypto, at least if you've got floating coils - like I do, dunno the Ricky Stator.